What boost controller? AMS-500 or E-Boost 2?
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ask them what was in the car and why they changed!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...e-car-vid.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...e-car-vid.html
ask them what was in the car and why they changed!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...e-car-vid.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...e-car-vid.html
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Once someone changes to our controls from another controller they experience control at a different level. Yes the controllers are not designed to fit in your ac vent..they are hardcore air management systems designed to control within 1/10 of a psi. No overshoot, no undershoot, no duty cycle settings to set and no guessing what its going to do as it will do the same thing everytime. The most advanced ramp control in the industry. The quickest and fastest turbocars in the world rely on our controls for that reason. Plenty of choices out there...as long as your happy thats all that counts.
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TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2010
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How hard is getting it set up. Im like the NLR unit because it seems that all the guys running serious boos are using them. I dont care how it looks. I want best control and a safe mode. I will be running a 2 tune pcm, so I can flip between 93 and e85 and I want raise the boost for e85. Does the ams-500 adjusted with a computer or manually. I think the 1000 would be overkill for me as this is a AWD street truck. Thanks for the info guys
how hard is the 1000 to hook up? Would probably be controlling it by just the gate pressure or maybe the gear selection if I can figure out how to do it with the auto trans. Also who has had any experience with the 1000 without co2.
The 500 is far easier to operate as it is all analog controls (*****) and is extremely easy to setup.
The 1000 is rather complicated to setup, specially if you are used to using nitrous controllers which do the ramps very differently. More wires also.
The complete CO2 setup can be had for under $120. Don't stop short and miss out on the very best part of boost control. 10oz canister lasts 6+ months and costs $3 dollars to fill at the local paintball shop.
The 1000 is rather complicated to setup, specially if you are used to using nitrous controllers which do the ramps very differently. More wires also.
The complete CO2 setup can be had for under $120. Don't stop short and miss out on the very best part of boost control. 10oz canister lasts 6+ months and costs $3 dollars to fill at the local paintball shop.
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the ams1000 is simple to hook up and very easy to set up as well. You can use manifold pressure as your source air if you like as well. Yes the way we control our ramps is entirely different than that of a nitrous controller. This is due to the fact that the duty cycle of the solenoid is constantly changing to adapt in real time to acheive our target pressure in the required amount of time that you dictate.
To give an example of our ramp control.
If we used a input pressure of 100 psi and told the controller to put 30 psi on the gate and we used a rate of 1 psi per second. The controller will only apply 1 psi of air every second until it reaches 30 psi. This will take 30 seconds total time.
If we then reduced the input pressure to 30 psi( far less than 100 psi) and told the controller to do the same thing...the outcome will be exactly the same.
This is due to our proprietary control algorithms.
In addition to having the best controller we have the best tech support in the industry as well. You can reach us at hours when the other companies are closed. When you call you talk to me...the guy who designs all the units and owns the business! My wife doesnt like the fact that I answer the phone at 10:30 at night with calls forwarded to my cell but without our customers we wouldnt be where we are today so its worth it. I know what its like to be at a race track and just need a simple answer so I try to make sure our customers have the best support ever.
Merry christmas everyone!!
To give an example of our ramp control.
If we used a input pressure of 100 psi and told the controller to put 30 psi on the gate and we used a rate of 1 psi per second. The controller will only apply 1 psi of air every second until it reaches 30 psi. This will take 30 seconds total time.
If we then reduced the input pressure to 30 psi( far less than 100 psi) and told the controller to do the same thing...the outcome will be exactly the same.
This is due to our proprietary control algorithms.
In addition to having the best controller we have the best tech support in the industry as well. You can reach us at hours when the other companies are closed. When you call you talk to me...the guy who designs all the units and owns the business! My wife doesnt like the fact that I answer the phone at 10:30 at night with calls forwarded to my cell but without our customers we wouldnt be where we are today so its worth it. I know what its like to be at a race track and just need a simple answer so I try to make sure our customers have the best support ever.
Merry christmas everyone!!
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Joined: Jun 2010
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So are you saying the ams 1000 would be better for my application than the 500. Tech support is huge for me because i dont do this all the time. Or do you feel that the 1000 is only beneficial to someone squeeze out every tenth they can at the strip. The benefit I see to adjust the progressive boost setting is to relieve stress off the drive train while changing gear. However probably not as important on an auto like mine. Or is it. Maybe I just need to give NLR a call.
Once someone changes to our controls from another controller they experience control at a different level. Yes the controllers are not designed to fit in your ac vent..they are hardcore air management systems designed to control within 1/10 of a psi. No overshoot, no undershoot, no duty cycle settings to set and no guessing what its going to do as it will do the same thing everytime. The most advanced ramp control in the industry. The quickest and fastest turbocars in the world rely on our controls for that reason. Plenty of choices out there...as long as your happy thats all that counts.
I saw your bike in the TiAl booth, I wanted to talk to you as we are currently using MoTec to control the boost, and while Boost AIM vs actual boost is getting better, the PID is still a mathematical brain freeze, but you were bombarded both times I was there
I like Shannons ROA box, Ive used his stuff in the past before his processors got fast/legal 
I like the AMS 1000 for race/big power small tire apps. The Eboost does a good job of controlling boost, and doing what it was designed for. Ive never had a problem with an Eboost. If boost is falling, maybe its out of turbo?
I have an electronic dual stage boost controller for the Silverado that came with my STS turbo kit and was told that you can go from low to high while in WOT. But, to go from high to low you need to let off the gas.
Is this true for all controllers?
I was looking at getting the E-boost 2 for a TT setup on the 2010 Camaro.
Is this true for all controllers?
I was looking at getting the E-boost 2 for a TT setup on the 2010 Camaro.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 100
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From: Willis Texas
As someone who has had an AMS500 and an Eboost, I would advise springing for the extra money and getting an AMS1000. The 1000 has been spot on as far setting target boost and the adjustability in the way boost comes in is second to none.
As someone else mentioned LMR and myself had issues with adjusting the Eboost. I know alot of people make it work and work well, but to me it was over complicated.
AMS1000 is the only way to go in my book.
I hope the AMS2000 is available soon.
As someone else mentioned LMR and myself had issues with adjusting the Eboost. I know alot of people make it work and work well, but to me it was over complicated.
AMS1000 is the only way to go in my book.
I hope the AMS2000 is available soon.
One of the reasons I went with the EB2 is because with the new 4 port solenoid you can run a (or in my case both)5lbs springs up to 40lbs. So I should have traction in all 6 gears without issue. Im sure the AMS1k can do the exact same thing..and may be a little more high tech but for someone thats doing what im doing its not worth double the price just to say I have one.
If you actually study and go through the whole manual everything is explained with this EBC. You can cause momentary spikes or dips between shifts or a combo of both to help with traction and launching along with a ton of other things. If I were running an all out drag car trying to run the fastest I possibly could I would most likely run the AMS1k..but for me and 98% of the other people the EB2 or AMS 500 would be more than enough.
If you actually study and go through the whole manual everything is explained with this EBC. You can cause momentary spikes or dips between shifts or a combo of both to help with traction and launching along with a ton of other things. If I were running an all out drag car trying to run the fastest I possibly could I would most likely run the AMS1k..but for me and 98% of the other people the EB2 or AMS 500 would be more than enough.