Pieced together a complete Procharger kit, 8-rib, FMIC, 4" Inlet for $2k :)
03-16-2009, 04:47 PM
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Pieced together a complete Procharger kit, 8-rib, FMIC, 4" Inlet for $2k :) I was about to step up my wifes silver 00 SS a little farther. I started going over different ideas on how to most cost effectively make the car where she can race it in D-gas (10.60 index) while im racing my car.
It has went a best of 10.99 @ 123 previously and has a little wet 150 rwhp kit on it that used a couple times cracking off guys on the street in "my wifes car" hehe..
Current combo was Forged 346", PRC Stg 2.5 5.3L heads (64 cc), GM MLS Gaskets, Ported Fast 90/90, 232/234 CSP Camshaft, 4.10 rear gear, 3700 EDGE Converter, CSP Strip 4l60e, all the bolt ons etc, 1-3/4" longtubes, true duals, prostars/skinnies at the track on 325 radials etc...stock suspension with subframes. Its around 10.3:1 compression
Welllll I was about to order PRC 215 heads, swap in a MS4'ish camshaft, install a PT4000 converter etc and scoot the car farther in the 10's. Maybe spray it lightly and twist it higher 7000 shift points occassionally (75-100 rwhp, cant do much on the pt4000)...all that minus selling the current parts was going to put me at $2000 ish price range for the upgrade.
$2000 piece together
Then I spotted a P1SC Head unit recently rebuilt by procharger in the for sale section that I nabbed for $950 shipped.
I already have some extra 60lb injectors, GSS350 255lph pump in the tank
Then ordered the following (all parts new):
Procharger 8-rib j-bracket, tensioner, idler kit $297 (procharger)
SDCE 8-rib crank pulley for stock balancer 7.25" $130 (SDCE)
Procharger Dowel to pin balancer (already own pinning kit) $5 (procharger)
Proflow Surge Valve $127 (procharger)
3.7 & 3.4" Blower 8-rib pulley $136 (procharger)
4" OBX Intercooler, piping, clamps $300 (ebay/localsupply)
Huge K&N Air Filter on 4" Custom Inlet $50 (k&N)
4" Inlet 90 deg Elbows / short piece of 4" tubing $30 (procharger, had piece of tubing)
Fabbed my own radiator top sheetmetal piece
Grand total of $2025 for a nice setup that will support 700 rwhp with all the nice upgrades I want on a complete setup.
Then to make it better:
Ive got the parts coming off the car sold to a buddy:
Put LS6 intake manifold/stock TB back on
Sold ported fast 90/90 for $1000
ASP Underdrive pulley with belts $170
Sold Air Lid/Ramair Air Box setup $125
Sold FTRA kit $100
Selling PT4000 and keeping Edge 3700 $250 profit from purchase price
So Im putting about $1645 back in my pocket...im going to have about $500 in this whole setup.. I can live with that
It has went a best of 10.99 @ 123 previously and has a little wet 150 rwhp kit on it that used a couple times cracking off guys on the street in "my wifes car" hehe..
Current combo was Forged 346", PRC Stg 2.5 5.3L heads (64 cc), GM MLS Gaskets, Ported Fast 90/90, 232/234 CSP Camshaft, 4.10 rear gear, 3700 EDGE Converter, CSP Strip 4l60e, all the bolt ons etc, 1-3/4" longtubes, true duals, prostars/skinnies at the track on 325 radials etc...stock suspension with subframes. Its around 10.3:1 compression
Welllll I was about to order PRC 215 heads, swap in a MS4'ish camshaft, install a PT4000 converter etc and scoot the car farther in the 10's. Maybe spray it lightly and twist it higher 7000 shift points occassionally (75-100 rwhp, cant do much on the pt4000)...all that minus selling the current parts was going to put me at $2000 ish price range for the upgrade.
$2000 piece together
Then I spotted a P1SC Head unit recently rebuilt by procharger in the for sale section that I nabbed for $950 shipped.
I already have some extra 60lb injectors, GSS350 255lph pump in the tank
Then ordered the following (all parts new):
Procharger 8-rib j-bracket, tensioner, idler kit $297 (procharger)
SDCE 8-rib crank pulley for stock balancer 7.25" $130 (SDCE)
Procharger Dowel to pin balancer (already own pinning kit) $5 (procharger)
Proflow Surge Valve $127 (procharger)
3.7 & 3.4" Blower 8-rib pulley $136 (procharger)
4" OBX Intercooler, piping, clamps $300 (ebay/localsupply)
Huge K&N Air Filter on 4" Custom Inlet $50 (k&N)
4" Inlet 90 deg Elbows / short piece of 4" tubing $30 (procharger, had piece of tubing)
Fabbed my own radiator top sheetmetal piece
Grand total of $2025 for a nice setup that will support 700 rwhp with all the nice upgrades I want on a complete setup.
Then to make it better:
Ive got the parts coming off the car sold to a buddy:
Put LS6 intake manifold/stock TB back on
Sold ported fast 90/90 for $1000
ASP Underdrive pulley with belts $170
Sold Air Lid/Ramair Air Box setup $125
Sold FTRA kit $100
Selling PT4000 and keeping Edge 3700 $250 profit from purchase price
So Im putting about $1645 back in my pocket...im going to have about $500 in this whole setup.. I can live with that
Last edited by SoCalSpd; 03-16-2009 at 09:20 PM.
03-16-2009, 05:10 PM
#2
Nice! Thats definitely the way to work the system 
Good luck with it all man
PS- better save at least some of that money you are putting back in your pocket for all the small nickel and dime stuff thats gonna come up- because i promise you it will
But an excellent base to start from no doubt!
Good luck with it all man PS- better save at least some of that money you are putting back in your pocket for all the small nickel and dime stuff thats gonna come up- because i promise you it will
But an excellent base to start from no doubt!
03-16-2009, 05:50 PM
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nice,but you sound like me trying to justify that way
but we both forget to factor in original cost of parts that we sold or swapped
i say thats my usage cost but the wife doesnt like it anyway
but we both forget to factor in original cost of parts that we sold or swapped
i say thats my usage cost but the wife doesnt like it anyway
03-16-2009, 09:21 PM
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Really there isnt much (less than $100) of nickel/dime stuff, that covers about everything...
hoped this would work for anyone trying to piece together a kit
hoped this would work for anyone trying to piece together a kit
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03-17-2009, 01:41 AM
#9
Just a few things to think about...
You're going to have a hard time trying to make 700rwhp on stock rails and a single pump. You'l be hardpressed to make it to 650 unless you use meth as a crutch. Its going to take two intake pumps, fuel rails, a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a new feed line/fittings (use the stock feed for a return) to get to 700rwhp. You're looking at $600-1000 for the fuel system depending on what you get used.
Also, and you don't have to have these, but a boost gauge and wideband are definitely nice to know whats going on so you can keep things in check. It's easy to blow a motor at this hp level. Plus it looks sick on the A-pillar and gives cars a friendly warning that they should be alarmed
. So figure another $500 - $600 for those two gauges and a pillar.
Finally, and I'm a 6-speed guy so I haven't paid much attention and don't know for sure, but I don't know if those 4.11's are going to work either. They're probably not going to be the most efficient unless you're running a really tall tire at the track. And then what about when you're not at the track? What will that cost to change to 3.42's or 3.73's? Thats another $0-600 depending on if you still have your stock gears, need to buy different gears and if you have to pay for labor to have them switched or do it yourself.
Oh, and don't forget a 2-bar MAP sensor and re-tune. You would have needed a new tune either way but thats another $30-70 for the sensor plus $0-$700 depending on if you tune it yourself or have it done and how close it is (gas, food, hotel).
And... honestly, a meth kit is a really good idea. Keeps the IAT's down, keeps the engine clean, cools off the pistons and makes power more safely and efficiently. $200-$500 depending on if you go new/used and progressive.
I think thats it.
You're going to have a hard time trying to make 700rwhp on stock rails and a single pump. You'l be hardpressed to make it to 650 unless you use meth as a crutch. Its going to take two intake pumps, fuel rails, a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and a new feed line/fittings (use the stock feed for a return) to get to 700rwhp. You're looking at $600-1000 for the fuel system depending on what you get used.
Also, and you don't have to have these, but a boost gauge and wideband are definitely nice to know whats going on so you can keep things in check. It's easy to blow a motor at this hp level. Plus it looks sick on the A-pillar and gives cars a friendly warning that they should be alarmed
. So figure another $500 - $600 for those two gauges and a pillar.Finally, and I'm a 6-speed guy so I haven't paid much attention and don't know for sure, but I don't know if those 4.11's are going to work either. They're probably not going to be the most efficient unless you're running a really tall tire at the track. And then what about when you're not at the track? What will that cost to change to 3.42's or 3.73's? Thats another $0-600 depending on if you still have your stock gears, need to buy different gears and if you have to pay for labor to have them switched or do it yourself.
Oh, and don't forget a 2-bar MAP sensor and re-tune. You would have needed a new tune either way but thats another $30-70 for the sensor plus $0-$700 depending on if you tune it yourself or have it done and how close it is (gas, food, hotel).
And... honestly, a meth kit is a really good idea. Keeps the IAT's down, keeps the engine clean, cools off the pistons and makes power more safely and efficiently. $200-$500 depending on if you go new/used and progressive.
I think thats it.
03-17-2009, 02:06 AM
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Ack, didnt mean for my post to be taken as if I was putting out any questions on needing help on how to do it...just some info for others looking to put together a FI kit on the cheap...most guys could do it for about $500 more pretty easily anytime.
Ive made 600-700 rwhp and much more on several blown/turbo pump gas /w meth setups...Pump will be fine /w the boost-a-pump thats on it and the meth handling some of the load. i'll deal with any issues if they come up but ive done this a bunch on customers/my own stuff.
Really the car isnt legal past 10.0 and i dont plan on making it legal past 10.0 since its a daily driver type so ill just see if it sneaks in the 9's then back off to run 10.40-10.6 or so consistently. Mainly I want it to be a consistent D-gas 10.60 index car, so ill back the boost back down and run it like that so my wife can enjoy it.
I leave the most gear I can in it, so 4.11's will be fine /w the 28" M&H's I run on it at the track..cars only going to trap 132-136...I like 4.11's on the street with the shorter street tire...and I dont drive around going 100+ on the street, so no biggie.
Ive got a extra Aeroforce gauge setup /w the boost add-on for it laying around with a Innovate wideband as well I hadnt gotten around to putting in till now. My dyno use is free and im a prof. tuner...
Ive got one setup running 9.1 @ 146 in a 3800lb 72 chevy truck on pump gas with methanol with a F1 with a 98 pcm on standard 1-bar...air fuel is always dead nuts on the widebands and very consistant.
Meth kit is my only additional cost, im a deep dealer for snow so its a reasonable $ upgrade. Ive only got $5k in mods into the whole car since its all just spare parts left over from customers builds etc that they didnt want or basically sold for nothing. (its scary how cheap ive gotten most of the parts for. The complete motor (fast 90mm to oilpan cost me $550 and some labor swapping a motor for a guy) Ive got more serious projects, so i try to avoid putting any real $ into this car as it mainly just needs to keep the wife happy while im trying to explain why Im swapping from the S91 to a new F2 kit on my foxbody this month
Ive made 600-700 rwhp and much more on several blown/turbo pump gas /w meth setups...Pump will be fine /w the boost-a-pump thats on it and the meth handling some of the load. i'll deal with any issues if they come up but ive done this a bunch on customers/my own stuff.
Really the car isnt legal past 10.0 and i dont plan on making it legal past 10.0 since its a daily driver type so ill just see if it sneaks in the 9's then back off to run 10.40-10.6 or so consistently. Mainly I want it to be a consistent D-gas 10.60 index car, so ill back the boost back down and run it like that so my wife can enjoy it.
I leave the most gear I can in it, so 4.11's will be fine /w the 28" M&H's I run on it at the track..cars only going to trap 132-136...I like 4.11's on the street with the shorter street tire...and I dont drive around going 100+ on the street, so no biggie.
Ive got a extra Aeroforce gauge setup /w the boost add-on for it laying around with a Innovate wideband as well I hadnt gotten around to putting in till now. My dyno use is free and im a prof. tuner...
Ive got one setup running 9.1 @ 146 in a 3800lb 72 chevy truck on pump gas with methanol with a F1 with a 98 pcm on standard 1-bar...air fuel is always dead nuts on the widebands and very consistant.
Meth kit is my only additional cost, im a deep dealer for snow so its a reasonable $ upgrade. Ive only got $5k in mods into the whole car since its all just spare parts left over from customers builds etc that they didnt want or basically sold for nothing. (its scary how cheap ive gotten most of the parts for. The complete motor (fast 90mm to oilpan cost me $550 and some labor swapping a motor for a guy) Ive got more serious projects, so i try to avoid putting any real $ into this car as it mainly just needs to keep the wife happy while im trying to explain why Im swapping from the S91 to a new F2 kit on my foxbody this month
Last edited by SoCalSpd; 03-17-2009 at 03:55 AM.
03-17-2009, 09:01 AM
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DAMN you for finding a P1....lol. ive been lookin for a P1 for awile now with no luck. im slowly putting a kit together. ill need the j bracket and tensioners and some other misc. stuff but im putting it on my stock Formula so im not getting stupid with it.
03-17-2009, 10:09 AM
#12
I've been looking for a D1, but they are very hard to come by, or the guy wants 2K for it.
Great job. I pieced together a vortech years ago, (and sold it, instead of installing it) but now want to do a procharger, ebay FMIC, and show it can be done around your price.
ryan
Great job. I pieced together a vortech years ago, (and sold it, instead of installing it) but now want to do a procharger, ebay FMIC, and show it can be done around your price.
ryan
03-17-2009, 11:06 AM
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I would just recommend buying the bracket bag new from a procharger dealer. comes with j-bracket, tensioner, idler, standoffs, hardware etc.
05-07-2009, 02:47 PM
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y did you swap from the fast stuff to the ls6 intake and tb?
ive seen some head units for sale also, but unfortunately i just started to reseach about the prochargers and don't know what i need for accessories besides the headunit. i appreciatle the list you gave it is helpful for us newbs here lol. hopeful ill pick up a d1 with everything under 3k one day. does epp mail directions w/ these kits or is there a write up on the install?
gl w/ the build bud
ive seen some head units for sale also, but unfortunately i just started to reseach about the prochargers and don't know what i need for accessories besides the headunit. i appreciatle the list you gave it is helpful for us newbs here lol. hopeful ill pick up a d1 with everything under 3k one day. does epp mail directions w/ these kits or is there a write up on the install?
gl w/ the build bud
05-08-2009, 04:31 PM
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y did you swap from the fast stuff to the ls6 intake and tb?
ive seen some head units for sale also, but unfortunately i just started to reseach about the prochargers and don't know what i need for accessories besides the headunit. i appreciatle the list you gave it is helpful for us newbs here lol. hopeful ill pick up a d1 with everything under 3k one day. does epp mail directions w/ these kits or is there a write up on the install?
gl w/ the build bud
ive seen some head units for sale also, but unfortunately i just started to reseach about the prochargers and don't know what i need for accessories besides the headunit. i appreciatle the list you gave it is helpful for us newbs here lol. hopeful ill pick up a d1 with everything under 3k one day. does epp mail directions w/ these kits or is there a write up on the install?
gl w/ the build bud
Basically I have no $ in a car that I expect to run 9.50-9.90...
I bought a D1sc kit /w SCDE Tensioner/ATI balancer/8-rib setup for a good deal here last month and then resold it with the P1sc head unit for same price, so i upgraded to a D1sc,SCDE & ATI Dampner complete setup for free (actually made $100 i think)...
I sold the fast setup and paid for half of this procharger setup...If I have any need to make anymore power ill just change the blower pulley.
If you need instructions then this might not be the best idea for you to put your own kit together...
