Road race & Overheating
03-24-2009, 07:33 PM
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Road race & Overheating This is my story:
In the past day's I tried to play for the first time in a Track day.
Well, only 5 minutes in the circuit and my car was hot like the hell, then I only stay out of the boost for 1 or 2 laps and the temp go down very quick, then again I push the gas, go to boost zone and after 5-6 min the overheating again.
That situation sucks because there were a lot of dumdumdumdum, porsche, etc and even when I can be a lot more quick I can’t stay in that situation for more than 5 minutes!... very frustrating
I look that my drive was in every time in the range between 4500 – 6200 rpms
Any idea to solve this?, My car don't have any problems out of the track, I think that I only need a good radiator or better water pump (EWP). Any trick?
347 Forged internals
STS 8 PSI
Any help is appreciate, and sorry for my English
Saludos desde Mexico City
In the past day's I tried to play for the first time in a Track day.
Well, only 5 minutes in the circuit and my car was hot like the hell, then I only stay out of the boost for 1 or 2 laps and the temp go down very quick, then again I push the gas, go to boost zone and after 5-6 min the overheating again.
That situation sucks because there were a lot of dumdumdumdum, porsche, etc and even when I can be a lot more quick I can’t stay in that situation for more than 5 minutes!... very frustrating
I look that my drive was in every time in the range between 4500 – 6200 rpms
Any idea to solve this?, My car don't have any problems out of the track, I think that I only need a good radiator or better water pump (EWP). Any trick?
347 Forged internals
STS 8 PSI
Any help is appreciate, and sorry for my English
Saludos desde Mexico City
03-24-2009, 07:58 PM
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I have a Be-Cool rad & Mez EWP and my car stayed normal during a track day. Then I ran a 100 mile open road race & my car got hot because the wire broke to the water pump. Once I fixed that (& added an oil cooler) I had no issues, so it can be done. 
This was all with a 402 + D1 @ 13 psi. Haven't been out yet with the 408 & F1.
This was all with a 402 + D1 @ 13 psi. Haven't been out yet with the 408 & F1.
03-25-2009, 03:16 AM
#4
stick as big rad in there as you can and as much oil cooler to! the Corvette guys have a real problem keeping there cars cool. oil coolers really help!
other things to think about, additives for the water, coating VERYTHING that get hot under the hood (thinking about yuor exhaust manifolds), shrouding the intercooler and rad to make sure theair gose THROUGH them rather than just around them, venting the hood (its not just about getting the air into the engine, it has to go somewhere to!!), you could try spraying water onto the intercooler (this is done by WRC rally gusy and works a treat in REALLY hot conditions), meth injection (cooler intake temps will put less heat into the engine).....
if you wanted to run constant and NEVER over heat you might want to think about moving the rad to the rear of the car or adding an additional one there. i know it sounds stupid but i have seen LOTS of very high HP cars form and around Sweedon that use this and it works!
Cheers
Chris.
other things to think about, additives for the water, coating VERYTHING that get hot under the hood (thinking about yuor exhaust manifolds), shrouding the intercooler and rad to make sure theair gose THROUGH them rather than just around them, venting the hood (its not just about getting the air into the engine, it has to go somewhere to!!), you could try spraying water onto the intercooler (this is done by WRC rally gusy and works a treat in REALLY hot conditions), meth injection (cooler intake temps will put less heat into the engine).....
if you wanted to run constant and NEVER over heat you might want to think about moving the rad to the rear of the car or adding an additional one there. i know it sounds stupid but i have seen LOTS of very high HP cars form and around Sweedon that use this and it works!
Cheers
Chris.
03-25-2009, 05:48 AM
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My rad is the dbl core Be-Cool so it's BIG. I had to remove the AC condensor & move the rad forward in the mount to make it fit. And the Mez is the non-race version. Not sure they offered more than 1 flow rate for it when I bought it, so I don't know the answer. And I have a single core oil cooler (like a tranny cooler). You need something to cool the oil!
I also have the highest flow rate Spal fan you can buy. That made a big difference too.
But Chris made a good point, it's all about air flow. I've re-done mine so it sucks air thru the front, not the bottom. That is another trick the serious road race guys are doing. Post in the road race forum - lots of smart guys there that are willing to help (Sam, Lou, Boyce, etc).
I also have the highest flow rate Spal fan you can buy. That made a big difference too.
But Chris made a good point, it's all about air flow. I've re-done mine so it sucks air thru the front, not the bottom. That is another trick the serious road race guys are doing. Post in the road race forum - lots of smart guys there that are willing to help (Sam, Lou, Boyce, etc).
03-25-2009, 09:44 AM
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Check out this build by EPP. Its on a C5 but you can incorporate a lot of the ideas into your car.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54
First steps would be new radiator (Tom Dewitt makes a nice one), better fans, external oil cooler. Im not sure how much shrouding affects the F-bodies, but if you can make sure the radiator is sealed off so air can't go around it.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54
First steps would be new radiator (Tom Dewitt makes a nice one), better fans, external oil cooler. Im not sure how much shrouding affects the F-bodies, but if you can make sure the radiator is sealed off so air can't go around it.
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03-25-2009, 07:42 PM
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Not intentionally. I ran my lower rad shroud over the bottom of the EPP FMIC & attached it to the rad brace. And then oopened up the grill to let air flow thru the FMIC into the rad & coolers.
03-25-2009, 08:04 PM
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Thanks to all of you.
I think i'm going to follow the WAHUSKER´s formula. It's urgent to me buy a RAD and the water pump.
I'm reading in the FRACS forum there is a lot info about this.
Hotrod68camaro: that vette is amazing! and it's full of greats ideas, thanks
I think i'm going to follow the WAHUSKER´s formula. It's urgent to me buy a RAD and the water pump.
I'm reading in the FRACS forum there is a lot info about this.
Hotrod68camaro: that vette is amazing! and it's full of greats ideas, thanks
03-26-2009, 03:15 AM
#10
Check out this build by EPP. Its on a C5 but you can incorporate a lot of the ideas into your car.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54
First steps would be new radiator (Tom Dewitt makes a nice one), better fans, external oil cooler. Im not sure how much shrouding affects the F-bodies, but if you can make sure the radiator is sealed off so air can't go around it.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54
First steps would be new radiator (Tom Dewitt makes a nice one), better fans, external oil cooler. Im not sure how much shrouding affects the F-bodies, but if you can make sure the radiator is sealed off so air can't go around it.
Chris.
03-26-2009, 03:20 AM
#11
has anyone one here tries extractor hoods?? they work reallly well on other cars.
also is there any other intresting cooling ideas?? i heard of one company selling electronic cooler kits. they didn't use the normal AC style systems. anyone any coments???
also has anyone tries the oil to water coolers?? i hear they help keep the oil at a more constant temp. it will put more stress on the rad but then you wont have to find space/restrict the air flow with the oil cooler.....
Just ideas i have seen used on other applications
Chris.
03-26-2009, 07:57 AM
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The "windshield washer" tank holds about 1 1/2 gal. It comes setup for meth with the Alky Control kit. I like it, it works well, but I must admit having that much pure alcohol on the nose of the car makes me a little nervous taking turns fast that have concrete barriers on them. Another reason I put a fire supression system on the car.....
03-26-2009, 11:54 AM
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03-27-2009, 03:20 AM
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The "windshield washer" tank holds about 1 1/2 gal. It comes setup for meth with the Alky Control kit. I like it, it works well, but I must admit having that much pure alcohol on the nose of the car makes me a little nervous taking turns fast that have concrete barriers on them. Another reason I put a fire supression system on the car.....
Chris.
03-27-2009, 10:58 AM
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Yep! I watched a brand new Viper burn down from an oil leak at an Open Road Race & decided that wasn't for me. He had an extinguisher, but by the time he got it pulled over & stopped it was too little, too late. So I bought the ESS system a lot of the ORR guys use - multiple nozzles, refillable, and sprays non-corrosive foam that rinses off with water.
03-29-2009, 09:39 AM
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Hi there!
I race with Alejandro! I have a Camaro with all the goodies for road racing, but the point is that when the engine was NA (H/C/I), no problems were there, but now with the D1-SC, things went a little bit tuff! Now Alejandro and I, are on the task of getting a nice rad and tuffer water pump.
The thing is that with the poor fan system that comes with the Procharger kit, road racing is not an option! I bought the little spal 9 in and added it to the game, expecting to have some sort of improvement, but it did not help a bit
Me, water on 250 °F+, Oil do not want to remember
As Alejandro said, it is a bit frustrating to be racing against exotic iron and only be able to keep up for a lap
BTW, has anyone have heard or experience with the "new" water pump from Edelbrok??? Any input!
Thanks
I race with Alejandro! I have a Camaro with all the goodies for road racing, but the point is that when the engine was NA (H/C/I), no problems were there, but now with the D1-SC, things went a little bit tuff! Now Alejandro and I, are on the task of getting a nice rad and tuffer water pump.
The thing is that with the poor fan system that comes with the Procharger kit, road racing is not an option! I bought the little spal 9 in and added it to the game, expecting to have some sort of improvement, but it did not help a bit
Me, water on 250 °F+, Oil do not want to remember
As Alejandro said, it is a bit frustrating to be racing against exotic iron and only be able to keep up for a lap BTW, has anyone have heard or experience with the "new" water pump from Edelbrok??? Any input!
Thanks
