problem solving at 1100 rwhp (help )
#21
#23
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There were several things we changed , new crank sensor , heat shields on coils,smaller gap on plugs, insulating the spark leads ,earthing the engine more,re ajusting the afr , minor things but a pain to resolve after many runs .Here is the graph. Im very pleased with the outcome , the power is enough for my weekender
#27
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The Jap cars seem very fond of earthing the crap out of theirs. Using large diameter cable, earthing various points on head and block, all linking back to a single point either on battery orchassis ( or I guess a similar solid earth point if battery is located in the trunk.
Similar in style to a shielding cable....all earths run to one location, to help reduce any interference.
My battery is in the trunk and grounded there to the chassis, but also with a cable running to the front, which then links to the engine block, chassis, ecu, and coils+heads
All interlinked with decent sized cable ( not sure what awg it is...but capable of circa 40-50A, 6.0mm^2 )
Nice results Tony...also interesting to see that running leaner on the AFR's doesnt seem to gain much in power.
Might be interesting to try in the 10's also ?
Similar in style to a shielding cable....all earths run to one location, to help reduce any interference.
My battery is in the trunk and grounded there to the chassis, but also with a cable running to the front, which then links to the engine block, chassis, ecu, and coils+heads
All interlinked with decent sized cable ( not sure what awg it is...but capable of circa 40-50A, 6.0mm^2 )
Nice results Tony...also interesting to see that running leaner on the AFR's doesnt seem to gain much in power.
Might be interesting to try in the 10's also ?
#29
hey can someone talk about this 16V thing more? when do you get to this point? and what will it do to all the gauges and fuel pump and ****? does all that need changed to hold the volt load?
#30
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power dip at 5700? Maybe wheelspin at top of peak torque. Did you increase your dwell. I run TR6 with my T trim setup run .35thou gaps and 3.8ms dwell time up top.
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
#32
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power dip at 5700? Maybe wheelspin at top of peak torque. Did you increase your dwell. I run TR6 with my T trim setup run .35thou gaps and 3.8ms dwell time up top.
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
#33
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The Jap cars seem very fond of earthing the crap out of theirs. Using large diameter cable, earthing various points on head and block, all linking back to a single point either on battery orchassis ( or I guess a similar solid earth point if battery is located in the trunk.
Similar in style to a shielding cable....all earths run to one location, to help reduce any interference.
My battery is in the trunk and grounded there to the chassis, but also with a cable running to the front, which then links to the engine block, chassis, ecu, and coils+heads
All interlinked with decent sized cable ( not sure what awg it is...but capable of circa 40-50A, 6.0mm^2 )
Nice results Tony...also interesting to see that running leaner on the AFR's doesnt seem to gain much in power.
Might be interesting to try in the 10's also ?
Similar in style to a shielding cable....all earths run to one location, to help reduce any interference.
My battery is in the trunk and grounded there to the chassis, but also with a cable running to the front, which then links to the engine block, chassis, ecu, and coils+heads
All interlinked with decent sized cable ( not sure what awg it is...but capable of circa 40-50A, 6.0mm^2 )
Nice results Tony...also interesting to see that running leaner on the AFR's doesnt seem to gain much in power.
Might be interesting to try in the 10's also ?
#38
Launching!
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power dip at 5700? Maybe wheelspin at top of peak torque. Did you increase your dwell. I run TR6 with my T trim setup run .35thou gaps and 3.8ms dwell time up top.
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer.
Awesome power dude on a digital Dyno Dynamics to well done. Keep it rich under boost doesn't make a difference by the looks of things to power just lots safer. Is it MAF or SD 3 bar?
#40
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we have tried allsorts that ngk have to offer but best results are the ngk b8efs which is non projected but no v grove. i think it does not matter , as long as you can read your plugs and selecting the best heat rating is the important part.