View Poll Results: Did you have to rebuild your turbo when it started leaking oil?
yes! Turbo needed rebuilt when it started leaking!
2
33.33%
NO! It was just an oiling issue and turbo is fine!
3
50.00%
I CURRENTLY HAVE A LEAKING TURBO! WTF!
1
16.67%
Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll
Who has had to rebuilt turbo when it leaked oil?
05-25-2009, 10:40 PM
#1
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Who has had to rebuilt turbo when it leaked oil? I wanted to make a poll of how many people actually needed to rebuild their turbo when it started leaking oil... and how many found it was just an oiling system issue...
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
05-26-2009, 12:00 AM
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The turbo (Garret GT70) kit i bought has an oil leak and was wondering what the chances of it needing to be rebilt are.... Hoping it is just an oiling problem... lol
If you have had to have your turbo rebuilt how much did it cost?
If you have had to have your turbo rebuilt how much did it cost?
05-26-2009, 12:49 AM
#3
Leaking where..is it blowing big smoke out the car exhaust, pumping it into the intake or what. I had crankcase venting problems in my talons in the past and thought blew engine or turbo but both times it wasn't that.Once was stuck pcv and the other time was blocked venting filter.Fixed the problem and all the oil stopped.
Many times oil out of turbos is not fault of the turbo.
Many times oil out of turbos is not fault of the turbo.
05-26-2009, 12:54 AM
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Leaking where..is it blowing big smoke out the car exhaust, pumping it into the intake or what. I had crankcase venting problems in my talons in the past and thought blew engine or turbo but both times it wasn't that.Once was stuck pcv and the other time was blocked venting filter.Fixed the problem and all the oil stopped.
Many times oil out of turbos is not fault of the turbo.
Many times oil out of turbos is not fault of the turbo.
thats as much as i know right now... How do i tell if the turbo needs rebuilt? Just check for endplay? the fans/blades are in excelent condition judging be the pictures.
05-26-2009, 08:30 PM
#7
what about when a turbo has been run on a car. then removed and put in storage. *stangin up and down so that the exhaust turbine side is what the unit is sitting on* and you see some oil come down the outlet section?
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05-26-2009, 09:26 PM
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Usually on Garrett turbos, the hot/exhaust side (turbine) can leak oil due to a worn seal ring, but their cold/intake side (compressor) seals generally don't wear as quickly as the turbine side.
If the turbo has been sitting off the vehicle, say in a box or on the floor, with the compressor side facing down, then residual oil can migrate past the seal ring (most are just a small 'piston style' ring with a small gap for heat expansion). Or if the turbo is filled with oil, for storage, and again stored in the above position. The same can happen for the turbine side, which is usually the way people will sit the turbo when storing (they should really be stored sitting on their 'side', gently resting on BOTH turbine AND compressor housings).
If such a leak is present during operation installed on the car, then it may be a PCV issue, excessive oiling at the oil INLET (some engineered applications require restriction), or inadequate drainage (usually only gravity assisted) at the oil OUTLET.
A very, very thin film of oil (should be difficult to see, but just enough to smear with a finger) inside the compressor housing is sometimes 'normal' for a high-power gas engine application. But wet, runny, dripping oil is generally a sign of an issue, whether it be from actual seal wear, oiling problems, or improper storage.
If the oil seals (again, most are metal/iron/ductile rings with gaps and side clearance, just like a piston ring) are worn and leaking noticeably during operation, then the turbo does need to be disassembled, pretty much completely. Then you are probably looking at a fairly straightforward 'rebuild', that should include new bearings, seal rings, any O-rings or gaskets, and MOST importantly... balancing of the turbine and compressor wheel assembly.
Garretts are generally a decent, robust design, that is 'rebuilder friendly' and should perform 'like new' if done properly. Unfortunately, they do require some special tools and equipment to perform such a rebuild. Plan on $100-$150 for parts, and 3-4 hours at $50-$80/hr shop rate, if there is no other damage or issues.
If the turbo has been sitting off the vehicle, say in a box or on the floor, with the compressor side facing down, then residual oil can migrate past the seal ring (most are just a small 'piston style' ring with a small gap for heat expansion). Or if the turbo is filled with oil, for storage, and again stored in the above position. The same can happen for the turbine side, which is usually the way people will sit the turbo when storing (they should really be stored sitting on their 'side', gently resting on BOTH turbine AND compressor housings).
If such a leak is present during operation installed on the car, then it may be a PCV issue, excessive oiling at the oil INLET (some engineered applications require restriction), or inadequate drainage (usually only gravity assisted) at the oil OUTLET.
A very, very thin film of oil (should be difficult to see, but just enough to smear with a finger) inside the compressor housing is sometimes 'normal' for a high-power gas engine application. But wet, runny, dripping oil is generally a sign of an issue, whether it be from actual seal wear, oiling problems, or improper storage.
If the oil seals (again, most are metal/iron/ductile rings with gaps and side clearance, just like a piston ring) are worn and leaking noticeably during operation, then the turbo does need to be disassembled, pretty much completely. Then you are probably looking at a fairly straightforward 'rebuild', that should include new bearings, seal rings, any O-rings or gaskets, and MOST importantly... balancing of the turbine and compressor wheel assembly.
Garretts are generally a decent, robust design, that is 'rebuilder friendly' and should perform 'like new' if done properly. Unfortunately, they do require some special tools and equipment to perform such a rebuild. Plan on $100-$150 for parts, and 3-4 hours at $50-$80/hr shop rate, if there is no other damage or issues.
