My 370 buildup (for F1 procharger) WARNING: long post & lots of pics!
#61
I did do a lot last weekend, but its nothing that would show up any different in the pictures. Got the intake manifold put on, but thats the only visible difference right now. Also got the passenger side header on and the rest of the exhaust installed, got the starter on, and finished up all the rest of the wiring and vacuum lines, got the procharger put on along with the intercooler piping, etc. Just a bunch of small stuff really, but it took all day last saturday to do.
Left on the to-do list is to get a new crank bolt, get new plugs, oil, and filter (dented the filter I had on it while installing the engine), also need to get a bung for the IAT sensor. Only thing left to install is the valve covers, coils, and wires, and thats really about it.
Ive been wracking my brain to try and figure out a way to put the IAT sensor downstream of the meth nozzle, but I don't think that will happen because the nozzle is right in the middle of the silicone elbow. I’d like the IAT to be downstream of the meth nozzle just so that it can register the cooling effects of the meth and then ultimately in the future when I get the SD tune, I want it to pull timing if it doesn’t see the meth cooling. The way I had it before on my composite LS6 manifold was where the vacuum port on the side of the manifold that was used for the EVAP was drilled out since I deleted my EVAP and I tapped that for the IAT sensor. Well, now with the BBK aluminum intake, I don’t want to drill and tap it there, and I’m actually gonna use that vacuum line for the bypass valve this time. So I’m gonna have a bung welded to the pipe that goes to the elbow from the TB. I thought about putting a bung for the meth nozzle before the IAT bung, but I think it would probably be a bad idea to put the meth nozzle in a location that’s not a direct shot into the manifold. I don’t know how well the meth would want to make that last 90° turn in that silicone elbow.
‘Trust’- the size difference from the F1 from the P1/ D1 housings is only slightly bigger. Everyone with F1’s told me that I would definitely have to either move the radiator forward and/ or cut the support to get the hat to fit. However, I got the stock hat to fit when I had the stock radiator and procharger fan shroud with my F1. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I have one of the older F1’s that has a 5.0 step up ratios I really have no idea.. But hey, I only paid $1000 + my P1SC for this F1 with very low mileage on it, so I can’t complain that it’s not the 5.4 step up ratio of the newer ones. I don’t know if my F1 housing is physically smaller than the newer ones or not tho. Maybe Bob at EPP can answer that question if ya give him a call. Now when I put the bigger griffin radiator in, I did have to cut and clearance the shroud to get the hat to fit, but I still haven’t hacked up the radiator support or moved the radiator forward any from the stock location.
#63
LMAO Yea, I'd highly recommend the F1 when ya get around to it! Sounds like you've pretty much maxed that D1 out already with a 3.4 pulley I was the same with the P1 I had. Little sucker did way better than I expected on a stock cubed LS6 and bone stock truck heads, 630+rwhp wasnt too shabby at all You are knockin on the door of 800rw already with your D1. No doubt your car would eclipse mine as is now at the track since you have an auto. Hell, once you step up to a F1, it'll totally eclipse mine and leave me in the dust! My only chance is to catch ya on the highway lol
#64
FormerVendor
iTrader: (45)
,,,,
‘Trust’- the size difference from the F1 from the P1/ D1 housings is only slightly bigger. Everyone with F1’s told me that I would definitely have to either move the radiator forward and/ or cut the support to get the hat to fit. However, I got the stock hat to fit....
‘Trust’- the size difference from the F1 from the P1/ D1 housings is only slightly bigger. Everyone with F1’s told me that I would definitely have to either move the radiator forward and/ or cut the support to get the hat to fit. However, I got the stock hat to fit....
I would think (maybe its a VA thing ) that most people running an F1 are avoiding the 'hat' like the plague though... The part that needs the room is the inlet pipe to the SC, no doubt.
#65
Thats a very true statement. I cringe when I think of how much power that damn hat costs me. I should probably look into something else no doubt... I'll have to play around with it while I'm waiting for the computer to get flashed with the base MAF tune..
#66
TECH Regular
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yo chad great build man (wingnut). After talking to Mike last week, I knew I needed to get back on the FI bandwagon again. Cricket has taken the Blue car back to race and I am picking up a 98 Z, iron block, 370 next week with a new engine and ofi T76 kit. I am going to keep an eye on your new build.
P.S. Mike told me there is not another F-body in town that can beat him.
Gota go, My Little Ponies is coming on.
P.S. Mike told me there is not another F-body in town that can beat him.
Gota go, My Little Ponies is coming on.
#68
Made a little progress last night. Got the plugs, wires, valve covers, coils, fuel lines, and other small miscellaneous stuff put on. I went with Autolite 104 plugs gapped at .029 I hope this plug works ok for me. I couldn’t find any negative reviews on the plug.. I installed the TB and the top tube just for the sake of taking some pics, but they will be coming back off since I still want to paint the throttle blade actuator thing black, and also I need to get the bung welded into the pipe for the IAT sensor. I couldn’t find a bung at lowes, and all the pipe fittings were cast, so they wouldn’t be good for welding to the steel intake pipe. So I ended up finding a steel spacer at Lowes that was 5/8” ID and 7/8” OD which is about perfect for tapping a 3/8”NPT for the IAT sensor. I should have that tapped by today or tomorrow hopefully. Anyway, here is a pic. I know it looks filthy dirty right now, but it’ll all get cleaned up. At least it looks like a complete engine now
#71
10 Second Club
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LMAO Yea, I'd highly recommend the F1 when ya get around to it! Sounds like you've pretty much maxed that D1 out already with a 3.4 pulley I was the same with the P1 I had. Little sucker did way better than I expected on a stock cubed LS6 and bone stock truck heads, 630+rwhp wasnt too shabby at all You are knockin on the door of 800rw already with your D1. No doubt your car would eclipse mine as is now at the track since you have an auto. Hell, once you step up to a F1, it'll totally eclipse mine and leave me in the dust! My only chance is to catch ya on the highway lol
Definitely let me know when you're doing the power pulls on it, I WILL be there!
#75
OWN3D BY MY PROF!
iTrader: (176)
The weight reduction sticky in the drag racing section is a good start. I've posted everything I've done so far to my 93 in the thread in sig. I think I'm at 322 lbs in crap taken out so far with zero money invested. I still have AC, PS, two stock seats, carpet, all of the interior panels, and I would have a stereo, but my car didn't come with one so I took out the related components.
Some good names to search under for weight reduction are, Magnus, The Juggernaut, Sux2bu, Dlove, RagenZ28 for mini tubbing information, jantzer98ss, and myself. There's a lot of good information out there you just have to find a way to implement it. Realistically, you could probably get your car to around 3200-3300 lbs with it looking exactly the same as it does now.
/END
Some good names to search under for weight reduction are, Magnus, The Juggernaut, Sux2bu, Dlove, RagenZ28 for mini tubbing information, jantzer98ss, and myself. There's a lot of good information out there you just have to find a way to implement it. Realistically, you could probably get your car to around 3200-3300 lbs with it looking exactly the same as it does now.
/END
#76
12 Second Club
iTrader: (116)
yo chad great build man (wingnut). After talking to Mike last week, I knew I needed to get back on the FI bandwagon again. Cricket has taken the Blue car back to race and I am picking up a 98 Z, iron block, 370 next week with a new engine and ofi T76 kit. I am going to keep an eye on your new build.
P.S. Mike told me there is not another F-body in town that can beat him.
Gota go, My Little Ponies is coming on.
P.S. Mike told me there is not another F-body in town that can beat him.
Gota go, My Little Ponies is coming on.
And you should just DVR the "my little pony" episodes so when your out in the garage you dont miss it, LOL.
Last edited by BIG_MIKE2005; 07-22-2009 at 05:41 PM.
#77
10 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
The weight reduction sticky in the drag racing section is a good start. I've posted everything I've done so far to my 93 in the thread in sig. I think I'm at 322 lbs in crap taken out so far with zero money invested. I still have AC, PS, two stock seats, carpet, all of the interior panels, and I would have a stereo, but my car didn't come with one so I took out the related components.
Some good names to search under for weight reduction are, Magnus, The Juggernaut, Sux2bu, Dlove, RagenZ28 for mini tubbing information, jantzer98ss, and myself. There's a lot of good information out there you just have to find a way to implement it. Realistically, you could probably get your car to around 3200-3300 lbs with it looking exactly the same as it does now.
/END
Some good names to search under for weight reduction are, Magnus, The Juggernaut, Sux2bu, Dlove, RagenZ28 for mini tubbing information, jantzer98ss, and myself. There's a lot of good information out there you just have to find a way to implement it. Realistically, you could probably get your car to around 3200-3300 lbs with it looking exactly the same as it does now.
/END