Finally starting the rebuild on the SS
Finally starting the rebuild on the SS Broke this thing over 2 1/2 years ago on my first 8psi run at the track. Left soft and shifted slow, just checking things out. It was making a clackety clack noise at the end of the track. I was really low on oil too, my fault. I sounded like a rod bearing, but who knows...
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...58-a_76254.htm
It's a long story, but recently I became free to do as I please with it. Pulled it out the bottom cradle and all with a cherry picker, some floor jacks and jack stands.
Number 7 Piston was broken in the ring area:
Looks like a couple of rod bearings got a little warm. They didn't appear to have spun yet.
All the rest looks real good. The cylinder walls are unscathed as far as I can see and the mains all look good. The block and all the other parts look good too.
Now for all the decision making.
Assuming the crank and block are good, I'm going with a slightly lower compression (9.5 vs. 10.5) forged rods and pistons, bigger turbo (old one was T67), big intercooler and eventually E85. Should I just rebuild it with forged components (rods and pistons) or get crazy with an LS2 block, stroker crank, etc.?
Also considering a front mount turbo system that keeps the A/C. I don't like anything currently on the market. The APS system looked promising at first, but their turbos are taking a crap on too many of the owners of those systems. I like the simplicity of a big single anyway. As of right now, the A/C must stay.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...58-a_76254.htm
It's a long story, but recently I became free to do as I please with it. Pulled it out the bottom cradle and all with a cherry picker, some floor jacks and jack stands.
Number 7 Piston was broken in the ring area:
Looks like a couple of rod bearings got a little warm. They didn't appear to have spun yet.
All the rest looks real good. The cylinder walls are unscathed as far as I can see and the mains all look good. The block and all the other parts look good too.
Now for all the decision making.
Assuming the crank and block are good, I'm going with a slightly lower compression (9.5 vs. 10.5) forged rods and pistons, bigger turbo (old one was T67), big intercooler and eventually E85. Should I just rebuild it with forged components (rods and pistons) or get crazy with an LS2 block, stroker crank, etc.?
Also considering a front mount turbo system that keeps the A/C. I don't like anything currently on the market. The APS system looked promising at first, but their turbos are taking a crap on too many of the owners of those systems. I like the simplicity of a big single anyway. As of right now, the A/C must stay.
Last edited by enginjoe; Jul 14, 2009 at 11:03 PM.
if the piston broke like that, there is a big possibility the cylinder wall has some damage.
if i where you i would not try to fix this motor, i would just buy an lq4 and work from there, an ls2 would be even better but it is allot more money
if i where you i would not try to fix this motor, i would just buy an lq4 and work from there, an ls2 would be even better but it is allot more money
If there is cylinder wall damage, I can't see it. If I decide to try a forged rebuild, I'll let the machine shop take a look first.
I don't want iron due to the weight, but I would really like a bit more displacement.
I don't want iron due to the weight, but I would really like a bit more displacement.
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I just hate to not do it all right the first time. If I rebuild, the most I could do is 383 without re-sleeving. Plus, around here, it's not like there are well known/respected LSx engine builders to do the job. I'm looking around at the options...
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Ann iron block will cost less than re-releeving your old block. Just make up for the extra weight with power.
True, but I'm already down on power due to the fact I live at altitude and high temperature. I've pretty much decided not to re-sleeve. I'll either stick with the block I have or go nuts with an LS2 or really insane with an LS3.
402 or 408 better for boost.
Have the stock block inspected by a reputable shop that knows these engines, if it looks ok, find a good matching turbo, if not, go with the 402/8. It will be hard to go big with turbo and keep AC tho. Might want to look into aftermarket Kmember for more room to run lines and piping, etc.
Have the stock block inspected by a reputable shop that knows these engines, if it looks ok, find a good matching turbo, if not, go with the 402/8. It will be hard to go big with turbo and keep AC tho. Might want to look into aftermarket Kmember for more room to run lines and piping, etc.
