MadIceV8

iTrader: (12)

Trust - Appreciate the PM. Really helps me out and saves me some time .

dlandsvZ28 - Excellent write-up. Had a few details in there that I didn't originally consider. Thanks .

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

No problem! And thanks to dlandsvZ28 for inspiring the idea in the first place!

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Awesome! Glad you got it worked out man. I replaced my stock 16" procharger puller last year when it broke, but unfortunately I haven't had the chance to test out just the pullers with my griffin radiator in the hot oklahoma summer since my car isnt running yet. I did buy a single 12" to use as a pusher a while ago, but didnt know if I needed it yet or not with the new puller I got. I have to take my radiator out anyway to get the new filler neck welded on, so I may as well go ahead and add that 12" pusher while its out just for peace of mind, and so I don't have to tear into it again Glad you were able to get the winning formula for us all!

dlandsvZ28

Since you will have the radiator out I would install two 12" pushers instead of just one. I originally had one but after adding two is when I noticed a significant difference. IMO one pusher just doesn't push enough CFM (800 or 900) if you plan to use the AC a lot.

The additional cost for one more fan isn't much considering the fact that the ac works more efficiently too as a result of 1600 cfm (two instead of one) of forced air passing through the ac condenser.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Well, I'm not looking to spend anymore money right now, so I'll use what I have and see how that works.

oh btw- trust, (or anyone for that matter who has added these plethora of fans) any charging problems from the stock alternator supporting all those amps? Gotta love that domino effect modding!

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Nice work!

I have the big-*** Spal puller & a Be-Cool dbl core with a Mez elec water pump & my car hasn't gone over 190, but I haven't driven it much when the temps were above 80 either, so maybe I have something to look forward to....

ddcarter

iTrader: (14)

In the fifth picture, is your A/C line undone while you are cutting on the car?

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

No problems with charging Chad.

Yes, it has to be with no condenser in there...but it wasn't me cutting on the car .

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

The car would probably run cooler if you could somehow get an inch or so clearance between the condenser and the radiator. That will help with air circulation.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Probably true, but with the tabs setup how they are along with how the A/C lines are ran I don't think it is feasible, I'd also be crushing the I/C piping too. Perhaps a vertical rad is in my future.

dlandsvZ28

No offense to your suggestion but you need to examine closely the stock system and the enclosed cavity between the ac condenser and the radiator.

On the stock system there are plastic shrouds built around the ac condenser creating a cavity whose only source of fresh air is that deflected by the air damn under the ac condenser and the radiator and pulled up into the cavity by the engine (an air pump).

The 1 1/2" cavity between the ac condenser and radiator is closed on the bottom by the stamped steel perimeter frame supporting the condenser, radiator, hood latch, headlights etc. and on top my the plastic air filter housing.

As a result the only fresh air to the radiator is that which is pulled through the ac condenser by the stock 11 inch puller fans.

Increasing the space between the condenser and the radiator either on the stock system or the ATI system IMO would reduce the draw created by the radiator puller fans.

Since the engine (air pump) is no longer the source of air to the motor with an ATI forced induction kit, the vacumm effect of the engine drawing fresh air through the formed plastic shrouds is almost non-existent while parked or in slow moving traffic. Consequently, this means that the puller fans behind the radiator have to pull air through the ac condenser and the radiator without the vacuum effect created by the engine (air pump).

Yes - we can remove or modify the stamped steel perimeter frame around the condensor and radiator and modify the plumbing to the ac condensor moving it forward so puller fans can be attached to its rear, but most of us don't want to extensively hack the car frame or redesign new plumbing to the ac condenser.

So the simple solution is too add one 14 inch pusher fan as Trust did or two 12 inch pusher fans to the front face of the ac condenser like I have.

This mod (solution) draws fresh air up from the air dam and/or through the front bumper (Camaro's if opened up) and pushes the air through the ac condenser into the cavity in front of the radiator where is it pulled through the radiator by puller fans.

Are there other solutions? Yes - but IMO this is the easiest and cheapest. And it works.

Total cost for either mod (Trust's or mine) is less than $200 and you have nice COOL air all of the time when needed.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

ummm what? I agree 100% that sealing the gap between the condenser and radiator would be better than opening it up. However, I dont at all see how the engine is drawing enough air through the radiator and condenser on the stock system to even make a significant difference in the cooling of the radiator. On both the stock system and the aftermarket systems, MOST (like probably 99% or more) airflow going through the radiator and condenser are from the fan(s) at low speed, and from the vacuum effects of the pressure differences created by the air dam and shroud at higher speeds.

The downfall of the stock procharger system is the blocking off of a LOT of surface area behind the radiator, and providing a less than adequate single fan that doesnt provide enough cfm pulling power. Add to it the fact that you are increasing the engine by hundreds of HP with a procharger, and that all contributes to higher heat that the engine will produce and place higher demands on the cooling system.

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

sorry to bring back an old thread. i am about to procharge my car and i have a few questions.

1. i never use my a/c and i was thinking about taking it off. my question is... will it help lower the temp a little bit when i take the a/c condensor out?

2. will a 160 degree thermostat help?

dlandsvZ28

Yes on no 1 because all air that gets to the radiator must pass through the AC condensor first. It's the AC condensor that heats up the air and causes the overheating on most ProCharged cars. If you are not running an FMIC then leave the plastic shroud that is in front of the AC condensor. It aids in creating a more of a vaccuum to pull air into the radiator being pushed up from the air dam.

Plan on two fans also - most times the single ATI won't pull enough CFM so you need a small 11 inch puller fan mounted on the driver side of the radiator.

On number two - my Procharged Camaro has never ever run at 160 even with an EWP before the install of the charger so IMO pointless to install a 160.

But there will be many who disagree on the 160 thermostat.