LS2 APS w/ lg turbos
#102
this might seem over simplified, but have you checked the primary side of the ignition wiring?
each coil subharness connector is going to have 1 12+vdc wire, 1 ground wire , 1 low voltage reference ground wire , and 4 grounded coil signal wires... 1 for each coil.
verify that you have solid 12+, ground, and low voltage refernce signal to the appropriate terminal on the connector...
if you do, ensure coil connectors are disconnected and fuel disabled ...test each of the coil signal wires for a steady pulse while cranking the engine... if the icm is detecting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, the ground path will be completed and it should pulse at a uniform rate... if you have no signal or intermittent spark it will be easy to tell...
i had an issue once, where at cranking speeds i would get no signal on the primary side of the ignition coil wiring to every cylinder... however, plug the coil connectors in and enable fuel and the car would start up with a bit of reluctance.... some cylinders wouldnt misfire at all, then suddenly they would just drop, then come back, then drop, ect...at first i thought it had a failing icm in the pcm.. but with a little probing, turns out it had a bad connection somewhere along the line from the pcm to the connector pin on the 12+vdc terminal to the crankshaft position sensor... at cranking speeds, it would only muster up 1.2+vdc, but when the engine was started, it would fluctuate from 3-4 to 13-14 up and down... ran a new wire direct from the pcm to the sensor...found it had a solid signal... went to start the car, fired on first crank and no more misfire issue...
sometimes its something small thats easy to overlook... dont get discouraged im sure you will figure it out... sounds like a heavy hitting setup once all the bugs are worked out.
each coil subharness connector is going to have 1 12+vdc wire, 1 ground wire , 1 low voltage reference ground wire , and 4 grounded coil signal wires... 1 for each coil.
verify that you have solid 12+, ground, and low voltage refernce signal to the appropriate terminal on the connector...
if you do, ensure coil connectors are disconnected and fuel disabled ...test each of the coil signal wires for a steady pulse while cranking the engine... if the icm is detecting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, the ground path will be completed and it should pulse at a uniform rate... if you have no signal or intermittent spark it will be easy to tell...
i had an issue once, where at cranking speeds i would get no signal on the primary side of the ignition coil wiring to every cylinder... however, plug the coil connectors in and enable fuel and the car would start up with a bit of reluctance.... some cylinders wouldnt misfire at all, then suddenly they would just drop, then come back, then drop, ect...at first i thought it had a failing icm in the pcm.. but with a little probing, turns out it had a bad connection somewhere along the line from the pcm to the connector pin on the 12+vdc terminal to the crankshaft position sensor... at cranking speeds, it would only muster up 1.2+vdc, but when the engine was started, it would fluctuate from 3-4 to 13-14 up and down... ran a new wire direct from the pcm to the sensor...found it had a solid signal... went to start the car, fired on first crank and no more misfire issue...
sometimes its something small thats easy to overlook... dont get discouraged im sure you will figure it out... sounds like a heavy hitting setup once all the bugs are worked out.
#103
Yeah sorry for your luck lately broh..car ,wife..when it rains it pours.
Been down divorce road once in my life. It wasn't much fun but things worked out better in the end. Got an better wife this time around I think. Worst part was seeing my kids get moved two thousand miles away and only got to see them every summer. That was worse than the money part of it. But hey sometimes you can't win. Not sure if you have kids. I was busy working,she was busy cheating. Hell with that. Married 9 years first time 15 years now second time.
As for the car well if its your only transportation it can get doubly annoying.If you have beater or something else then sometimes best to just park the damn things for awhile and come back to them a bit later on.
It is likely something dumb.something that happened obviously from the swap.
But what exactly is hard to say. I somehow messed up a cam sensor connnector when did my 408 swap. Intermittent problem which was even worse and the car wouldn't keep running at all with the 120 injectors when the cam sensor went fubar. Lucky didn't have to flatbed the car.It didn't leave my driveway till finally figured it out. And installed the 60s so if it was still problem at least car would keep running.
Yours have to be wiring like was said and has to pretty much involve that crank sensor.
camsensor, almost nothing else can make it not fire like yours is doing on only certain cylinders. But now you said didn't hear fuel pump running?
Not sure if you guys did try case relearn or turn off vats or relink vats or any of that stuff. If crank wheel is ok then not sure whats up. Wish was there to help you figure things out.
Been down divorce road once in my life. It wasn't much fun but things worked out better in the end. Got an better wife this time around I think. Worst part was seeing my kids get moved two thousand miles away and only got to see them every summer. That was worse than the money part of it. But hey sometimes you can't win. Not sure if you have kids. I was busy working,she was busy cheating. Hell with that. Married 9 years first time 15 years now second time.
As for the car well if its your only transportation it can get doubly annoying.If you have beater or something else then sometimes best to just park the damn things for awhile and come back to them a bit later on.
It is likely something dumb.something that happened obviously from the swap.
But what exactly is hard to say. I somehow messed up a cam sensor connnector when did my 408 swap. Intermittent problem which was even worse and the car wouldn't keep running at all with the 120 injectors when the cam sensor went fubar. Lucky didn't have to flatbed the car.It didn't leave my driveway till finally figured it out. And installed the 60s so if it was still problem at least car would keep running.
Yours have to be wiring like was said and has to pretty much involve that crank sensor.
camsensor, almost nothing else can make it not fire like yours is doing on only certain cylinders. But now you said didn't hear fuel pump running?
Not sure if you guys did try case relearn or turn off vats or relink vats or any of that stuff. If crank wheel is ok then not sure whats up. Wish was there to help you figure things out.
#104
thanks AL
but its on the dealer now ill let them pull there hair out over it LOL
im thinking that turboworx oil pump died already but have not looked in to it to much
but its on the dealer now ill let them pull there hair out over it LOL
im thinking that turboworx oil pump died already but have not looked in to it to much
#105
this might seem over simplified, but have you checked the primary side of the ignition wiring?
each coil subharness connector is going to have 1 12+vdc wire, 1 ground wire , 1 low voltage reference ground wire , and 4 grounded coil signal wires... 1 for each coil.
verify that you have solid 12+, ground, and low voltage refernce signal to the appropriate terminal on the connector...
if you do, ensure coil connectors are disconnected and fuel disabled ...test each of the coil signal wires for a steady pulse while cranking the engine... if the icm is detecting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, the ground path will be completed and it should pulse at a uniform rate... if you have no signal or intermittent spark it will be easy to tell...
i had an issue once, where at cranking speeds i would get no signal on the primary side of the ignition coil wiring to every cylinder... however, plug the coil connectors in and enable fuel and the car would start up with a bit of reluctance.... some cylinders wouldnt misfire at all, then suddenly they would just drop, then come back, then drop, ect...at first i thought it had a failing icm in the pcm.. but with a little probing, turns out it had a bad connection somewhere along the line from the pcm to the connector pin on the 12+vdc terminal to the crankshaft position sensor... at cranking speeds, it would only muster up 1.2+vdc, but when the engine was started, it would fluctuate from 3-4 to 13-14 up and down... ran a new wire direct from the pcm to the sensor...found it had a solid signal... went to start the car, fired on first crank and no more misfire issue...
sometimes its something small thats easy to overlook... dont get discouraged im sure you will figure it out... sounds like a heavy hitting setup once all the bugs are worked out.
each coil subharness connector is going to have 1 12+vdc wire, 1 ground wire , 1 low voltage reference ground wire , and 4 grounded coil signal wires... 1 for each coil.
verify that you have solid 12+, ground, and low voltage refernce signal to the appropriate terminal on the connector...
if you do, ensure coil connectors are disconnected and fuel disabled ...test each of the coil signal wires for a steady pulse while cranking the engine... if the icm is detecting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, the ground path will be completed and it should pulse at a uniform rate... if you have no signal or intermittent spark it will be easy to tell...
i had an issue once, where at cranking speeds i would get no signal on the primary side of the ignition coil wiring to every cylinder... however, plug the coil connectors in and enable fuel and the car would start up with a bit of reluctance.... some cylinders wouldnt misfire at all, then suddenly they would just drop, then come back, then drop, ect...at first i thought it had a failing icm in the pcm.. but with a little probing, turns out it had a bad connection somewhere along the line from the pcm to the connector pin on the 12+vdc terminal to the crankshaft position sensor... at cranking speeds, it would only muster up 1.2+vdc, but when the engine was started, it would fluctuate from 3-4 to 13-14 up and down... ran a new wire direct from the pcm to the sensor...found it had a solid signal... went to start the car, fired on first crank and no more misfire issue...
sometimes its something small thats easy to overlook... dont get discouraged im sure you will figure it out... sounds like a heavy hitting setup once all the bugs are worked out.
but we change the harness,pcm,coils and the crank sensor with no luck
and thanks for the +words.
#106
The passengerside turbo would be the only one I could get a filter on. Then driverside turbo, actaully sits right in front of the K member and there only about a half inch of space between the two.. So if theres a filter that is 3.25 inch in size and 1/2 inch tall let me know..
#107
so the dealer shot me down today
the guy at the dealer was like "id like the money but i dont need it that bad" and i was like so is that why your the goverments bitch now LOL
the guy at the dealer was like "id like the money but i dont need it that bad" and i was like so is that why your the goverments bitch now LOL
#113
just be careful with the Allison tranny. I have an 03 and have gone through 2 Allisons in 4 years just with an Edge juice with attitude and 5in exhaust. They are fun trucks though. Now hurry up with the car.
#114
i just want to gget some ok MPG with and it looks like ill be towing alot as well i.e. the car
#115
the truck is staying stock for now but i have been doind alot of reading on them and its crazy how these things work
ill need to upgrade the trans frist and just bolt-ons at frist
ill post pics for you all later its coming from GA
ill need to upgrade the trans frist and just bolt-ons at frist
ill post pics for you all later its coming from GA