can I put 1/2" head studs in a ls1 block? How much boost can I make with 0-rings and not destroy the block in short order? I want to run occasionally low 20s maybe more.

 

std 11mm stud will handle 1500+ hp,no need to put in bigger studs.the trick is good heads with thick deck surfaces

 

Is making power not more important than a boost target ?


Maybe I'm just being silly.

 

Shawn,

For the price point, would you mind ranking aftermarket heads? I know this is a huge off topic question, so starting a new thread would be perfect!

 

Thanks for sharing. The more boost the more power. You can't get over 15 psi on a LS1 which is my current platform without the risk of lifting heads and cracking cylinders. I've got a cracked cylinder in #3.

Which is why I want to change my platform since I'm at my limit for reliable street power. And I don't want to run around with my C16 sensors and fuel in my car on a race tune all the time.

You can still only tighten to 90lbs anyway regardless of what stud size you're running. I'm unclear if it helps significantly at all to increase the size of your head studs in an aluminum block.

But thanks for the helpful comment. 6 bolt blocks and heads, iron blocks and Phuzion gaskets and o-rings or receiver o-rings is likely my best bet but I want to hear options and pros/cons.

I'm looking at the LSX but someone thinks they cause too many failures. ??Thrust washer problems and cam problems and castings not great. Hard to fit a LS2 with 4.0 MID sleeves as requires custom sleeves generally. LS7 blocks with thin walls. LS1 not the strongest and very expensive to place MID sleeves in them ($2800).

Do you have any helpful suggestions on what to do?

 

Thanks Shawn. Which way would you go with a 2000 Lingenfelter current unrepairable LS1 block TT street tune 750RWHP street gas no meth no more 15 psi? I'd like to go from low 10s/mid 9s to low 9s. I have good internals and GT35s with both air to air and air to water intercoolers and A4. Suspension needs to get Phaft.

 

forged ls2 with a set of aftermarket heads.use ls3 head gaskets and arp head studs-this combo will easily handle 1200hp with no issues with the proper compression,camshaft and tuning

 

not sure i totally understand the question

 

thanks Shawn

 

Not true

Not true

What's a C16 sensor ?

Why are you excessively over tightening your studs ?

Yes it does, but at considerable expense, but for the most part is not necessary

Or maybe just stock gaskets and ARP studs like many others use with no problems.

Cant comment on the LSX...but whats wrong with the stock LS2 liners ?

Just exactly how much power are you after ? well in excess of 1000+ ? 1500+ ?

The only suggestion I can give, is dont make something simple, complicated.

 

You don't seem to be here to help but to flame. I'm not interested in internet oneupmanship.

If you don't understand more boost more power then I can't even argue with you.

I have goals in mind. Just because I don't state them in a manner you approve of doesn't really matter. I'm not interested in specific HP numbers or boost numbers. I'm interested in going X fast which has so many variables that we often just say we want x HP or x boost which is an indirect way of saying how fast we want to go. Or more importantly how we plan on beating the guy in the other lane.

For someone who wants to avoid cutting receiver holes in their heads then Phuzion gaskets make a lot of sense. They just don't have a track record and they are very expensive. But they should work very well. It's WWII airplane technology and has been around a long time. They may not be right for me since I probably can run with one set of heads for a long time. But they have some attraction.

No one is excessively overtightening studs. 90lbs is the accepted #. You do get a little better clamping force with larger studs. There are better ways to clamp though specifically a 6 bolt head with thick decks as well as where are you clamping.

Yeah, you can boost over 15psi on a LS1. If you have MID liners but even then its a risk due to the thinness of supporting material behind the sleeves. It's not going to be reliable though.

O2 sensors made for leaded applications. I use them when I run with C16.

Many others aren't me and likely aren't running boost at the levels I'm wanting to run. Which is why I'm asking all these questions. It's not simple like you say it is.

Stock LS2 liners aren't strong enough. MID Darton sleeves may be in the LS2 block.

You have no idea what I'm building. How in the heck to you know what is simple.

You're just running your mouth.

 

Clearly you know it all already.

 

now now kids...

 

fyi

i have torqued arp 11mm studs to 100ft lbs

also have made over 1700hp with stock ls2 liners


i don't reccommend the larger head studs,because that is not the issue

deck surfaces is the main issue-the other is in the block-if you fix both you can make well over 1500hp with 4 bolt heads with no gasket issues

 

Not sure where you getting your info from but most of it is way off.

There plenty of people running way over 15 psi of boost.
The stock ls2 block has been push way push 15 psi think it was like 28psi at 1400RWHP.

The Darton sleeve takes the force not whats behind the sleeve so not sure what your issues here are. They are way stronger then stock So lets say twice as strong at least They will hold over 2000RWHP then. IF you need more then DO THE DART BILLET BLOCK OR OTHER AFTERMARKET ONE

And finally more boost doesnt always make more power boost is the measure of restriction. Same size engine ive seen people make 989RWHP at 15psi other make 740RWHP at 15.6 Psi The last one had a little more boost in your theory it should have made a little more power but it didnt.

 

I clearly mentioned LS1 blocks and 15psi which was my application. Which clearly didn't hold up.

And you can boost anything to what you want. It may or may not be reliable. No one said you couldn't boost LS2 blocks significantly. I have a LS1 not LS2 block. And I am considering a LS2 build. It still won't hold up to the boost pressures I want to run even with MID sleeves. At least that's the advice I'm being given by the people who own the patent for the MID process and would do the work on the block.

I didn't come here to argue with people. I came for advice from people other than who I've already talked to. People with cars that have been thru LSX builds and LS1 failures. Much of my questions were to ask why I can't do a certain thing.

Looks like I came to the wrong forum. I've not been met by animosity on other forums.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Or maybe the other forums have filled your head with so much BS, you cant accept the truth when it comes from people with genuine experience in such matters.

There will be few better online resources for LS info than here. Whether you choose to believe it or not, is up to you.

 

You don't read real well do you?

You can have the last say. I'll just go with what the top builders are telling me. I'm won't get much more than BS from you that's for sure.

 

Ls1 block sleeve even better cause of the way there casted.

Whats this crazy power level your going for ?

You keep talking about 15psi of boost If your cracking sleeves at that level there other issues at fault.

 

Instead of using a Cometic gasket they used an ordinary GM MLS gasket which I think caused more problems than the sleeve.

I want to get into the 20s. An LS2 should be ok but I think I'll go with either a LSX iron block or an aftermarket aluminum block probably a Warhawk block. I can go into the 30s with the iron block for short periods.

I'm torn between that and just putting the car back together and selling it to get a C6 platform probably Z06.

BTW, several dealers I've talked to cannot sell either a LS2 or LS3 block by itself.

Anyone got a dealer who knows how to procure a LS2 block?