Procharger crank bolt?
Procharger crank bolt? I recently purchased the Procharger 6 to 8 rib conversion kit from EPP for the D1SC kit on my '02 Z28.
Using a normal 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar and working by myself, I am unable to get the new crank hub to seat all the way on the crankshaft. I know, I need to eat my Wheaties and hit the gym.
The AC and serpentine belt pullies are still about 1 rib too far forward and the crank bolt is not even snug against the washers inside the ATI damper hub with the amount of torque that I am able to apply by myself just using the breaker bar. Before I get the car up on a lift where I can put a big cheater pipe on my breaker bar, I wanted to ask if the same crank bolt (the blue one that came from Procharger) is proper length to use on the 8 rib setup. It is the original one that came with my 6 rib Procharger kit. The Procharger tech rep said the bolt is reusable. If I recall it is stamped 12.9 in the center of the head and has a blue anodized or blue paint coating.
I just want to make sure it is not too long to use with the new 8 rib setup before I put monster torque on it to try and seat the hub all the way. I am using the ATI damper that EPP's website recommends with the 8 rib kit. Also, it shouldn't make any difference, but I used the ATI crank pinning kit to install one crank pin before putting the kit on the car. I think the pin slot in the hub is long enough to not interfere.
Using a normal 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar and working by myself, I am unable to get the new crank hub to seat all the way on the crankshaft. I know, I need to eat my Wheaties and hit the gym.
The AC and serpentine belt pullies are still about 1 rib too far forward and the crank bolt is not even snug against the washers inside the ATI damper hub with the amount of torque that I am able to apply by myself just using the breaker bar. Before I get the car up on a lift where I can put a big cheater pipe on my breaker bar, I wanted to ask if the same crank bolt (the blue one that came from Procharger) is proper length to use on the 8 rib setup. It is the original one that came with my 6 rib Procharger kit. The Procharger tech rep said the bolt is reusable. If I recall it is stamped 12.9 in the center of the head and has a blue anodized or blue paint coating.
I just want to make sure it is not too long to use with the new 8 rib setup before I put monster torque on it to try and seat the hub all the way. I am using the ATI damper that EPP's website recommends with the 8 rib kit. Also, it shouldn't make any difference, but I used the ATI crank pinning kit to install one crank pin before putting the kit on the car. I think the pin slot in the hub is long enough to not interfere.
No, the ATI damper (if thats what you are using) uses a stock length bolt. Use a pipe and you will most likely rip the threads out of the crank.
Use the ARP crank bolt, tighten it to 160-170ft lbs and call it a day.
Use the ARP crank bolt, tighten it to 160-170ft lbs and call it a day.
When I was unable to seat it by hand, I sensed something might not be right, and decided to stop and ask before I got crazy on it.I am using ATI Damper 917264 (with A/C pulley) and strangely enough, EPP's website now says to use ATI Damper #918853, but it said 917264 a few months ago. :shrugs: ATI could have changed their models around for all I know.
917264 is fine if you purchase with a steel hub. That is if you are going to be using it for FI which you are just make sure it is a steel hub an aluminum hub won't cut it driving the S/C.
I have an ARP bolt and its reuseable, but if you don't thing you will have to keep taking it off a GM bolt will work and they are like $6 in case you didn't know. It takes a 12pt 27mm socket for the ARP bolt and I haven't been able to find one locally in an impact socket unless I order one though snap on FYI
Thanks man. That's exactly why I wanted to ask first and torque later. When I was unable to seat it by hand, I sensed something might not be right, and decided to stop and ask before I got crazy on it.
I am using ATI Damper 917264 (with A/C pulley) and strangely enough, EPP's website now says to use ATI Damper #918853, but it said 917264 a few months ago. :shrugs: ATI could have changed their models around for all I know.
When I was unable to seat it by hand, I sensed something might not be right, and decided to stop and ask before I got crazy on it.I am using ATI Damper 917264 (with A/C pulley) and strangely enough, EPP's website now says to use ATI Damper #918853, but it said 917264 a few months ago. :shrugs: ATI could have changed their models around for all I know.
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Yeah I have 917264 and it is drilled and tapped. You can specify to ATI if you order one correct?
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Brett Foote Rather than tell me to switch dampers, they said "get longer bolts". I went to a specialty store here, got longer bolts, and now they reach through the hub and fully engage the threads on the A/C pulley behind the hub. The only concern I have is that they pass through the body of the damper itself and anchor in the hub. The damper is still fixed to the hub by the three flush mounted torx screws and everything is loctited. Plus the three longer bolts now "press" everything together by virture of the small washers at the bolt heads and the clamping force exerted. I thought it would be all right, esp as the car sees the track very rarely and just an occasional "midnight run" somewhere.
Aha! Yeah, I called Procharger when I noticed that the bolts they supplied pass right through the damper, anchor in the hub, and are not long enough to engage the A/C pulley behind the hub.
Rather than tell me to switch dampers, they said "get longer bolts". I went to a specialty store here, got longer bolts, and now they reach through the hub and fully engage the threads on the A/C pulley behind the hub. The only concern I have is that they pass through the body of the damper itself and anchor in the hub. The damper is still fixed to the hub by the three flush mounted torx screws and everything is loctited. Plus the three longer bolts now "press" everything together by virture of the small washers at the bolt heads and the clamping force exerted. I thought it would be all right, esp as the car sees the track very rarely and just an occasional "midnight run" somewhere.
Rather than tell me to switch dampers, they said "get longer bolts". I went to a specialty store here, got longer bolts, and now they reach through the hub and fully engage the threads on the A/C pulley behind the hub. The only concern I have is that they pass through the body of the damper itself and anchor in the hub. The damper is still fixed to the hub by the three flush mounted torx screws and everything is loctited. Plus the three longer bolts now "press" everything together by virture of the small washers at the bolt heads and the clamping force exerted. I thought it would be all right, esp as the car sees the track very rarely and just an occasional "midnight run" somewhere.
I had to do the same thing to mine. After a year, the supossed grade 8 bolts broke off in the balancer.
The hub should already have all the needed holes drilled and tapped, just three of the holes are filled on the main pulley.
I had the three extra 5/16" holes drilled at a machine shop through the face of the pulley so I could relocate the bolts for the AC pulley to there and use the 3/8" holes for the add on supercharger pulley. This was actually recommended to me by the guys at ATI (The makers of the Damper not the blower).
I had the three extra 5/16" holes drilled at a machine shop through the face of the pulley so I could relocate the bolts for the AC pulley to there and use the 3/8" holes for the add on supercharger pulley. This was actually recommended to me by the guys at ATI (The makers of the Damper not the blower).
I was just wondering about 'ol Aster. Hadn't seen or heard from you for a while.
I'm done with the project. I got bolts from Austin bolt that are indentical to those provided by ATI, just a little longer, 3/4" IIRC. I also stopped by the dealer and got a stock crank bolt and finished up everything last night. Ran it on the jackstands and watched the belts and everything seems to be fine. Couldn't take it out of the shop for a test drive in this Monsoon weather.
The hub is threaded and so is the A/C pulley. The 8 rib blower crank pulley is not threaded IIRC, but it seems like everything is fastened on fine. The longer bolts pass through it and anchor in both the hub and the A/C pulley behind it. Red Loctite for insurance.
I'm done with the project. I got bolts from Austin bolt that are indentical to those provided by ATI, just a little longer, 3/4" IIRC. I also stopped by the dealer and got a stock crank bolt and finished up everything last night. Ran it on the jackstands and watched the belts and everything seems to be fine. Couldn't take it out of the shop for a test drive in this Monsoon weather.
The hub is threaded and so is the A/C pulley. The 8 rib blower crank pulley is not threaded IIRC, but it seems like everything is fastened on fine. The longer bolts pass through it and anchor in both the hub and the A/C pulley behind it. Red Loctite for insurance.
Cool, glad to hear you got it done. I've been lazy and slow on mine. I need to get the piping fabricated for my fmic. I got the intercooler mounted last weekend, but with the rain I haven't been able to start cutting the pipe. I am debating about just giving up on cutting it myself and taking it to a shop to finish it, but I don't really have the time during the week to take the car anywhere for the work.
The only thing that scared me about using longer bolts to hold everything together is that ATI recommended different torque specs. With using longer bolts everything will be torqued to one spec.
Does the 918853 have the A/C pulley?
Does the 918853 have the A/C pulley?
