98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Both AMS boost controllers come with MAP sensors. The AMS500 has one built into it with a 1/8 threaded port on the side of the box. The AMS1000 has a remote mounted MAP sensor that just get's wired into the box. If you do some research, you will find that NLR (the company that makes the AMS) recommends that you drill and tap a second 1/8" port on the top of the gate and screw the MAP sensor directly into the gate for best boost control. The MAP sensor in this application does not measure manifold pressure but instead is used to measure the actual amount of boost or CO2 pressure that is being applied to the top of the wastegate. It uses this measurement to control the solonoids and maintain a fixed (whatever you are commanding with the controller) amount of pressure on the top of the gate. This is why it offers better boost control than everyone else. So back to the MAP sensor location. If they ideally want the MAP sensor in the gate, then logic dictates that they want to MAP sensor as close to the gate as possible. I did not drill my gate. Instead I have a T screwed into my top port. One side goes to the boost/CO2 port (which is coming from the T that is between the 2 noids) and the other side goes to the boost controller.

I requested a change to the 9sec club about 2yrs ago thru the drag racing section. I guess that whomever is responsible for doing that hasn't processed my request yet. Since then, I have been to the 8 sec club. I stopped caring about that a long time ago.

I'm also crew chief and tuner for a 7 second street car. That and quarter will get you a piece of bubble gum in most states.

I swapped out the TPS and it made no difference.Timing and fueling trims (over/under idle corrections) still didn't work. I called AEM and explained the issue. They told me that my tps should never read zero. It should swing from 0.00-1.00% at idle. Know, keep in mind that I used the ECU SETUP/TPS CALIBRATION to set it up which is how the manual tells you to do it. Anyway, he told me to go into SENSORS/TPS/OPTIONS and lower the low side voltage a little until I saw some movement above 0.00. VIOLA!!! Corrections started working.

Unfortunately, that didn't completely fix my hot startup or transition from park/nuetral to reverse/drive stalling issues. I decided to tackle the gear issue first. The solution to this problem came via the IAC. It turns out that I had my throttleblade completely closed and not enough of a hole in my throttle blade. In order for the car to idle correctly in drive and reverse, I had something like 85% open IAC position. This was too close to 100% and didn't leave enough headroom for the transition as it seems to want more than that on the initial shift. I ended up turning the throttle screw in to about 3% and then reconfiguring the TPS again. This put my in gear IAC requirement at 30% which allows the IAC to do it's thing better in either direction. Problem fixed.

Last but not least was the hot start stalling issues. I found that the car would run for about 10 seconds relatively well before it would get itself into trouble and stall out. What was happening was that the start up corrections would kick in immediately after turning the car on and most of these tables were set to ramp down within 25 seconds but the O2 correction was setup to come on within 10 sec across the board. So the O2 correction was fighting the startup corrections. I shortened up the startup stuff and pushed the closed loop O2 correction out to 25 sec. Problem solved.

I'm feeling pretty good about it now. I'm going to try to get the 2 step setup, throw in the 3 bar MAP, 160# injectors, and retune.

Made a huge discovery today. Killed 2 birds with one stone.

Ever since putting in the AEM EMS computer, I've been chasing ghosts that all point back to my TPS. We tried running new wires from the TPS all the way to the computer and replacing the TPS all together. The problem is that it is so intermittent that it was impossible to pin down. I somehow managed to work around it and get the car running good.

So now I'm driving the car and notice that all the sudden I'm having a cooling problem. It would cool fine and then all the sudden, the temp would start to run away. I thought that the fans were running on low speed or that a setting was wrong in the EMS. I had Steve rewire them to eliminate the slow speed function all together. That seemed to help alittle but it was still driving me crazy. The 99* temps that we have been having haven't helped either. This morning I pulled the thermostat out to see if that would help. Took it to the gas station about 10 minutes away. On the way back it got REALLY hot. Like 250*. LoudmouthLS1 sent his pump down with one of our friends for me to eliminate that as a cullprit. I swapped the pump and started the car to fill it with coolant. It got hot fast. That's when we noticed that the fans weren't running. Turned the key off and as soon as the engine stopped running the fans were on. So that explains why I never noticed. I put the key in the on position and watched the voltage with the computer. Sure as ****, it was oscillating full range (.5-4.7v). It had never done this before. Atleast not slow enough to where I could see it happening. The fans were setup to shut off at WOT which is what the sensor reads without signal. Turns out that it was one of the female pins in the connector wallowed out and the vibration of the motor was causing intermittent contact with the male pin in the sensor.

We took the pigtail apart and tightened it up and now, finally, the TPS signal seems to be solid. Took the car for a ride and the temp was still creeping slowly but the fans were good. Got home, put the thermostat back in and now, the temps seem to be under control. I'm feeling pretty good about it right now.

Now I just need to get the Speedo working and the fuel gage.

bonnarls1

iTrader: (20)

great find los

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the food, drink and help! Now lets get your junk put together and tuned.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

yea i noticed with mine when i had the stock t-stat and junk fan it would creap. i took out the t-stat and added a taurus fan and it was a ton better but still would creap. put a 160 or 180 t stat back in with the taurus fan, no issues at all

MillsMotorvation

You guys give great info. Ive never tuned any thing but a Grandnational, but i will soon be trying to learn the lingo! What is the simple setup to tune and run a stock 2002PCM on a turbo LQ4?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I would never rebuild to go slower unless in meant improved driveability over a setup that had poor driveability/"street manners". Fortunately, there are only 2 things that I could change for better "street manners". Add A/C and overdrive gear. The car is a kitten otherwise the way that it sits now.

As far as design changes, having had the opportunity to put a few different kits together and the experience that I picked up with this kit, I would put less focus on symetry as I have noticed that it isn't all that important. I would offset the turbo more to the driver's side in order to open up a cold air intake option that is currently not available to me due to the proximity to the passenger side frame rail.

I finally got the new tank in. I went ahead and upgraded the feed from a -8 to a -10 and the return is a -8. Also moved the pump from the front of the well to behind the well under the bumper cover.

Here is the old set up. The car is a 98 so it had a steel tank and I had a friend weld a -8 nipple in the low spot.



My buddy Dave made me this tank. It has 2 3/4" NPT bungs. I had to use some brass fittings and reducer barbs in order to keep the cost down. The line coming out of the tank is actually a -12 and steps down to -10 right before the elbow going into the prefilter.



BonnarLS1 has a set of high imp 160# injectors that I am going to try and LS2Formula has a 3 bar MAP for me. I'll be adding those by the end of next week and then retuning for both E85 and pump gas. Then hopefully this pump will get me to 8.50's @ 160ish on E85.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

still stock crank? are the mains pined? o-ring heads? block filled?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Stock crank. No pins. No orings. No fill.

I put in the 160# High Imp injectors today and started tuning them for pump gas. Seems to idle and drive the same once I got them dialed in.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

what are the inlet outlet sizes on your intercooler? I have decided to basically copy your setup since it plain out works,I have block crank and so far starting from scratch again!!also back in 2006 did you have a 402 in your car?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

3.5". The plumbing is 3" from the turbo to the IC and steps up the 3.5" with a coupler at the IC. Comes out of the IC 3.5" into 3.5" tubing to the TB where it steps up to 4" with a coupler.

It looks like I need to wrap the exhaust pipe that is near the fuel tank. I drove the car to the track last night (about 25-30 miles) and while I was idling in line, the pump overheated. Basically I am boiling the fuel in the tank which causes it to cavitate the pump and overheat.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

i used this on my return line running E85 to drop my fuel temps by 20 degrees http://www.barrygrant.com/fromBarryG...ink-178002.pdf

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

If wrapping the exhaust back there doesn't resolve the issue, that's next. I saw somewhere one that uses CO2 to cool the fuel. I wonder how much CO2 it burns thru.

KRAZY K 2000 TA

iTrader: (5)

you could try a heat shield too and wrap it

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I was having some frustration with the 160's acting up suddenly while at a steady RPM/speed. The part throttle values in the fuel table were so low that a +/- 1 increment would yield over a 20% change in AFR. I dug into the AEM manual again and found a function that "optimizes" the resolution. It basically doubled the resolution. I then lowered the base fuel pressure from 58psi to 42psi, did some work to the offset table and now they seem to be behaving consistently. Switching to E85 will also effectively increase my resolution.

Finally went back to the track Friday night. First time out on the AEM computer and the 160's. These injectors have me second guessing myself. Not sure if maybe my offset table needs a little more work. Seems like they are perfect everywhere and then everything gets out of wack and leans spot appear that I can feel in the driveability. This is also the first time that I have gone down the track on pump gas and with the exhaust all corked. I made 3 passes. Each gear started off on the lean side (12.5) and ended up on the rich side (11.0) with a perfectly smooth curve. It was starting off over 13 on the first pass. I guess my adjustments were too soft. Just doesn't look right on the fuel map.

First Pass was a 10.00 @ 136.13 w/ 1.41 60', 9.98 @ 136.84 w/ 1.45, 10.08 @ 137.1 w/ 1.51. Bald Mickeys, 12 psi, 13* timing thru 2 mufflers and a single 3" exhaust.

RS_SS69

iTrader: (31)

Keep working it, you will get there with the tuning. Good to see you at least made it back to the track. Get her dialed in and get some more 8s!

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Let me know how that works out for you. I've had issues with the various pumps and I've always thought it was the heat from my exhaust. I went as far as wrapping foilpaper around my heatshield to see if that would help. Don't know if the heated fuel has gotten to the point where it actually smells like a thinner of some sort. It was unbareable the last time it happened. Very intrested in finding out. Good luck!!

LSXFORMULA99

iTrader: (12)

Nice...

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

We are having our East Coast ( West Palm Beach, FL ) private track rental at Palm beach International Raceway on November 7th for our local forum (need2speed.com).

We are really going to bust *** to try to get me ready for the event on E85. LoudmouthLS1 is letting me borrow his injector driver box and BonnarLS1 is going to run up there and grab it tomorrow morning from Devon. LS2Formula and I are going to install it Sunday along with the new 3 bar MAP sensor and the low z 160# injectors. Hope to max out the turbo and maybe see some 8.6's @ 160 ish MPH. Will likely be the death of my little TH350 transmission.

Big thanks to Loudmouth, Bonnar and LS2formula for knocking out a few of my excuses today.Devon supplied the injector driver box. Joe picked it up if BFE North and brought it out to BFE West. He also supplied the 160# injectors. Steve installed the driver box, my fuel gauge, the new pigtail for the new MAP sensor and got my linelock working again. Just gotta switch to e85 and retune. Should be no sweat.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

how much boost on the 8.9 pass?
how much boost you going to push?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

I think 19-20 psi. I can't be sure because I did that with a 2 bar map sensor so my logs only show 15 psi. I had to fudge the fueling table to make it work. This time around I have the new computer, a 4 bar map sensor and plenty of injector. I think that I'll need about 25-26 psi to run the number that I am after. Not sure if the PT88 will be able to deliver. If not, I'll find out where it maxes out.