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Finally finished my procharger D1 install

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Old 11-12-2009, 12:46 AM
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Default Finally finished my procharger D1 install

I still need a dyno tune to have it dialed in but have enough to get me started. Car fired right up and I drove it around the block. No ideling issues so far.

D1 with a 4" pulley
SDCE 8 rib kit with crank pulley
60 lb Seimens Dekan injectors
FMIC kit with custom aluminum piping
Vortec Mondo BOV

3 things I was a little concerned with.

1. After I started going up the block the D1 made started to sound like a bunch of marbles shaking around when I stopped but then it went away. I just read that this is common. I don't know what to make of it.

2. Is a BOV supposed to be dumping alot of air when the car is ideling? I disconnected the vaccuum line to it just to simulate no vac/boost and it stopped but I was just wondering.

3. I hooked up my catch can to the inlet of the D1 right behind the filter but I didn't get any vaccuum from it. The outlet is hooked to PS VC back port and the DS VC PCV port. I blocked the PS VC front port and the the TB port. I also blocked the front side port of the intake but think i may need to have that hooked up with a check valve.

Any other stuff I need to check to make sure this OK before I drive it up for the dyno tune?

Thanks
Kevin
Old 11-12-2009, 01:14 AM
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How much boost are you looking to make on your motor? Is it still a stock bottom end? You didn't note anything about fuel pump, are you still running the stock pump? If so I would doubt it is up to the task.

My D1SC and P1SC before it never made any rattling or marbles sounds.

Yes you should always be venting air when the motor is running under vacuum. A supercharger is always spinning and as such always moving air so don't worry about the valve being open at idle or just cruising, it is supposed to do that.

I would seriously recommend connecting the intake port to the catch can with a check valve. This way you have evacuation at idle and normal driving. You won't get much of a vacuum if any through the hose to the blower inlet at low speed. Hence the recommendation to have the intake port connected. Also you should have a fresh air source for the PCV system, if your catch can isn't one way then I suppose it could work for allowing air back through it. Here is how I have mine setup:


Last edited by Aster; 11-12-2009 at 01:26 AM.
Old 11-12-2009, 01:41 AM
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Thanks Aster. I saw your diagram and was going to connect the intake port but don't have a check valve and still trying to locate one. Also, instead of a breather I supposed I could use another check valve and hook the PS VC front port to the TB again to provide the fresh air source.

For fuel, I have Lonnies Double Pumper kit with the Hobbs swich. I am still on the stock botttom end so I don't want to push more than 7#s right now.
Old 11-12-2009, 01:57 AM
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A check valve trying to connect back to the throttle body won't help you. Since the check valve would need to allow flow in the direction of the valve cover which is the same direction the boosted air would be going.

If you want to be sure no fumes or vapors would escape out of the breather though you could put a check valve on that line so air can only come in and not out.

Good luck keeping it around 7psi with the pulley combo you have. A buddy of mine on a stock motor with a 4.5" pulley just made 10psi when he switched to an 8 rib kit. Even with the smaller SDCE crank you're going to be spinning the blower faster than he is. Hopefully your cam will bleed a bit off.

Good luck, I know once you get it tuned in you'll love the added power!
Old 11-12-2009, 07:03 AM
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Well I will say 1 thing my SDCE kit and a 4.0 pulley made 12psi with my stock headed 347. You might need a bigger pulley
Old 11-12-2009, 07:29 AM
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yeah my 8psi kit from Procharger is making more like 10-11psi on a completely stock motor. The kit came with 7.65/4.5 pulley combo.
Old 11-16-2009, 10:55 PM
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Crap, I guess I will be short shifting to keep the boost down.

Where can I get a good check valve? and where does it go? From the diagram I thought it would go between Intake port (P-16 in the illustration) and the catch can so it could pull air from the can but not let boost go back in when the boost kicks in. I guess I am not reading it correctly.

Last edited by BLASTER; 11-16-2009 at 11:08 PM.
Old 11-17-2009, 10:24 AM
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Marbles... sure its not coming from the motor? Sounds like detonation to me.
Old 11-17-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BLASTER
Crap, I guess I will be short shifting to keep the boost down.

Where can I get a good check valve? and where does it go? From the diagram I thought it would go between Intake port (P-16 in the illustration) and the catch can so it could pull air from the can but not let boost go back in when the boost kicks in. I guess I am not reading it correctly.
On mine the blue line coming from the catch can T's, this is illustrated at the bottom of the picture, a line goes from the T to a check valve then to the intake manifold. See the spot on the diagram that says CV next to it, that is the check valve.

You can get a check valve from an auto parts store. I think I got one from O'Reilly's and another I got from Tracy at RevXtreme when I got his catch can. I wasn't sure at that point how many I'd want to use.

I am at work right now, but can take a picture of the catch can and hoses when I get home tonight if it will help.
Old 11-17-2009, 01:59 PM
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*Replace turbo for supercharger... same concept.

Old 11-17-2009, 09:54 PM
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The only problem with that setup is there isn't anything to prevent oil from coming through the hose to the turbo inlet. Once the turbo spools and the motor is under boost there is only one place for it to end up, following the vacuum from the turbo and pushed along by any positive pressure in the crank case.

Here is a photo of my catch can with T fitting and check valve. The line going down off the T goes to the inlet of the supercharger.
Attached Thumbnails Finally finished my procharger D1 install-p1010542.jpg  
Old 11-18-2009, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BLASTER

1. After I started going up the block the D1 made started to sound like a bunch of marbles shaking around when I stopped but then it went away. I just read that this is common. I don't know what to make of it.
Kevin, the straight cuts gears will make this sound. Typically most of this noise goes away after approx 500 miles. Normally you will only hear it at idle, and if you slightly raise the idle the noise will go away. A spring loaded tensioner set-up, such as what is used on the C5/C6 kits, won't make this noise. Bob
Old 11-18-2009, 08:25 AM
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Mine is similar to MadIce except I have a small catch can/compressor air water separator between the valve cover and blower inlet (green Line)
Old 11-18-2009, 11:44 AM
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what Bob says, at idle, esp low idle, if its not constsnt, it will make that rattle sound-mine being a carb, really does it untill it warms up and idle isnt going up and down
Old 11-18-2009, 12:14 PM
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Mine is routed close to like MadIceV8's is (only difference is mine doesn't have the port blocked off of the p/s valve cover). I am thinking of adding an additional catch can in the line from the valve cover to the inlet of the supercharger for the reason Aster mentioned. I wouldnt however be mixing and matching atmospheric breathers in with PCV system. Either vent everything to atmosphere, or make it a sealed system. If you put a breather on it and put a line going to the inlet of the s/c, you have the potential of just sucking atmospheric air in and not evacuating the crankcase pressure.

On your BOV, yes, you want it open at idle, and under normal driving conditions. Only time it needs to close is when you want to make boost. This will happen at WOT.

Last edited by ChevyChad; 11-18-2009 at 08:13 PM.
Old 11-18-2009, 07:59 PM
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Thanks guys. I noticed the rattling when I went about 20 feet then I stopped. I will look out for on the next startup.
Old 11-22-2009, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BLASTER
Thanks guys. I noticed the rattling when I went about 20 feet then I stopped. I will look out for on the next startup.
Any updates? Bob
Old 11-23-2009, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Any updates? Bob
Hey Bob, no updates yet. I am going to try and fire it up tonight. I just bought my first house two months ago and between that and work it takesup all my time. The car reside at my folk's house so I don't get alot of "face time" with it anymore. I am trying to finish it up so I can at least get it over to my house.

Thanks
Old 11-23-2009, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aster
The only problem with that setup is there isn't anything to prevent oil from coming through the hose to the turbo inlet. Once the turbo spools and the motor is under boost there is only one place for it to end up, following the vacuum from the turbo and pushed along by any positive pressure in the crank case.

Here is a photo of my catch can with T fitting and check valve. The line going down off the T goes to the inlet of the supercharger.
Aster - why only one breater ? and why not just put it in the oil cap?

Thanks
Old 11-23-2009, 02:41 PM
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originally my plan was to put a check valve on the line for the breather so air could only go in, and the evac for any crank case pressure would be forced through the catch can drawn by the vacuum from the supercharger. Since I had the small breather filter it was easier/cheaper for me to do it this way instead of on the oil fill cap.

The catch can from RevXtreme has a one way valve in it so the usual way of using the line to the supercharger as both a fresh air source when not under boost and a vacuum evac under boost wouldn't work.

The way it is right now seems to be working as there is no smoking or misting in the engine bay, but then my motor is still fairly fresh so I may just have pretty good seal in the cylinders. I can tell that some oil is making it to the breather without a check valve on there since the filter media is getting a little discolored. I'll be adding a check valve to the line for the breather and also one in the line from the supercharger so air can only be drawn to the blower and not sucked from it.


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