hlp me !!!!!!
and if i increased it to 17 i got it detonating. The question is would it be possible to achieve 1000 rwhp when installing methanol water kit and nitrous
on the same combination? If the answer is yes how much nitrous can be set and how much timing can i increase? 
thanks
navy
Meth will help, may take another 3 or 4 deg and will cool intake air temps as well, wouldn't be surprised if you picked up 80-100 hp with meth.
add a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous and you should see your 1000 rwhp goal.
No way you gonna reach 1000rwhp without the nitrous or race gas (with more boost)
I also think 15 timing is enough...
Good luck..
But that depends on the setup quite a bit. How much timing total were you able to use as it sits right now? Every engine has an optimal max timing number thats determined mostly by octane, temperature, compression, cylinder head design, and cam specs. If you have nice mild DCR that will help a LOT in this case.
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It is possible to up the boost more all else being equal with the additon of the water/meth, due to the cooler cylinder temps and greater octane of the overall air/fuel mix. How much? Hard to say. As I mentioned earlier, it comes down what his limits are on race gas. He is pushing fairly hard as is, but considering that he is able to avoid knock by running 15 degrees, I think he has a lot left in the setup if detonation can be kept down. I think, but do not know, that he was on the pump gas available in the area.
So the large octane gains and the dramatic cooling from water/meth may well allow him to run a shot of nitrous and get to 1000WHP, without dropping the CR. The intercooling effect of both the nitrous and the water/meth will be a big help there. But it really depends a lot on what he dynoed on the first place too, which we do not know yet.
The other thing I was mentioning is that a fail-safe and tuning that is taking IAT into account will be a very good idea when pushing that hard.
So the large octane gains and the dramatic cooling from water/meth may well allow him to run a shot of nitrous and get to 1000WHP, without dropping the CR. The intercooling effect of both the nitrous and the water/meth will be a big help there. But it really depends a lot on what he dynoed on the first place too, which we do not know yet.
The other thing I was mentioning is that a fail-safe and tuning that is taking IAT into account will be a very good idea when pushing that hard.
I am very intersted in this! Because I was told by many for one not to mix nitrous and meth/water injection kits. Because the meth with the nitrous would raise the chances for knock/detonation! On top of that me haveing the same C/R as navy. It has been told to me, that if I want to run high boost the C/R would need to be around 9:1. That I might get by with it on 10:3:1 C/R for a little while depending on the tune and fule setup. But was not recommended on the current C/R.
I am very intersted in this! Because I was told by many for one not to mix nitrous and meth/water injection kits. Because the meth with the nitrous would raise the chances for knock/detonation! On top of that me haveing the same C/R as navy. It has been told to me, that if I want to run high boost the C/R would need to be around 9:1. That I might get by with it on 10:3:1 C/R for a little while depending on the tune and fule setup. But was not recommended on the current C/R.
Water/methanol makes nitrous much safer. This is because while nitrous does a fantastic job cooling the IATs, it also creates a good bit of heat in the combustion chamber even with a proper fuel system in place. The water in particular helps to keep these temperatures in check. And the methanol burns cooler than any gasoline, so it helps in that regard as well. Being that methanol is higher octane than all but the best race fuel (and water does not combust), it will certanly not cause any detonation. It will prevent it. many people use a mild, simple system triggered by the nitrous as a insurance policy.
Water/methanol makes nitrous much safer. This is because while nitrous does a fantastic job cooling the IATs, it also creates a good bit of heat in the combustion chamber even with a proper fuel system in place. The water in particular helps to keep these temperatures in check. And the methanol burns cooler than any gasoline, so it helps in that regard as well. Being that methanol is higher octane than all but the best race fuel (and water does not combust), it will certanly not cause any detonation. It will prevent it. many people use a mild, simple system triggered by the nitrous as a insurance policy.
. I didnt thing that they was right about that. Thanks for clearing all that up with the safer subject and the meth and nitrous thing also. I have a 1989 TTA that I am thinking about selling. They only made 1555 of them and mine is #13. So I am haveing a hard time making my mind up on that part. But I never drive it anymore. I was going to build it....but when I found out that they dont make the 109 blocks anymore. I changed my mind! Couldn't do it. I have to much respect for the car.
So I've got to sell it, if I want this project to be done sooner. Or hold on to it and wait. But even if I sell it, most of the money will be put away for my son.
I have a 1989 TTA that I am thinking about selling. They only made 1555 of them and mine is #13. So I am haveing a hard time making my mind up on that part. But I never drive it anymore. I was going to build it....but when I found out that they dont make the 109 blocks anymore. I changed my mind! Couldn't do it. I have to much respect for the car.
So I've got to sell it, if I want this project to be done sooner. Or hold on to it and wait. But even if I sell it, most of the money will be put away for my son.
Thanks!
. I didnt thing that they was right about that. Thanks for clearing all that up with the safer subject and the meth and nitrous thing also.Yep. Reducing back pressure is usually a very good idea, especially with a turbo setup. If you have back pressure issues, the resulting higher temperatures around the exhaust valves can create the conditions that trigger detonation or worse, pre-ignition. The increased detonation will pretty much eliminate adding any more timing untill it is addressed.



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