Turbo/Blower and LSA Differences
Turbo/Blower and LSA Differences I have noticed that alot of "Blower" Cams maintain a 114+ LSA for the most part, but I have also noticed alot of Turbo Cams keep a 112-114 LSA. I was always under the impression that all FI cams should use a higher lsa like 114+. A perfect example is Speed Inc.'s Street Blower Cam 226 234 .598 .599 117 vs Speed Incs TU2 Street Turbo Cam 236 236 .587 .587 112.5 At first glance I would assume that the 112.5 would be a bit low on LSA for a Turbo cam, Evidently not?
Discuss?....
Discuss?....
I'm not expert in the mater but I would assume they brought the lsa down on that cam because of the high 236 intake duration. It does seem a little odd as most blower cams have a good split with a higher exhaust duration. I think cam size isn't as important as most people make it to be in a forced induction car anyway.
No one else? Man its painfully obvious that FI cams are anybodies guess. If you ask about cams in NA sections or even Nitrous sections there are a million people talking it over. In here...not so much. I guess everyone jut turns up the boost and runs whatever is laying around...
That's the bottem line with a forced induction car, just turn up the boost. Key is to keep your peak power of the cam where you make peak boost. Make sure you have the power band at the right rpms if you will. Then make sure the cams not to big where you bleed off boost.
Hmm I thought that first one would be pretty much ideal and would get one similar to that if changed out mine. Ling uses gt7 cam in most of their turbo builds
I went with 1.8 rockers to get more like .590 lift might go down to 1.7 rockers in future to leave even more headroom.
Here are gt7 specs..They used to use gt2-3 and it was used in a lot of their supercharged builds and think turbo builds until the gt7 came along.
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT2-3 207/220 .571/.578 –118.5CL
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
These cams are very close to specs of the similar stock cams. They are built by comp pretty sure for lingenfelter.
So while specs look very similar to stock might be diffferences in ramp rate,lobe types,etc.
Anyway I have to test out my current gt7 cam a bit more but so far think I like it a lot. It has basically no noticeable lope..didn't really want any. It has no cam surge at low speed which I absolutely hate. I still have to see how it will pull up top with planned upgraded turbos for now just been revving it out to 6000 or so and the standard turbos tend to drop off there.
Low end is great on my combo but its a 408 and have 3.54 gears, 34000 stall but big afr 225 heads. So hard to say how much the cam helps or hurts low end with my combo.
I am hoping cam will pull to 7000 max rpm occasionally if need that for track mph reasons but mostly would keep 6500 redline as my daily driving rpm limit and would shift bit under that .
I went with 1.8 rockers to get more like .590 lift might go down to 1.7 rockers in future to leave even more headroom.
Here are gt7 specs..They used to use gt2-3 and it was used in a lot of their supercharged builds and think turbo builds until the gt7 came along.
02-03 ZO6 cam: 204/218 .551/.547 -117.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT2-3 207/220 .571/.578 –118.5CL
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
These cams are very close to specs of the similar stock cams. They are built by comp pretty sure for lingenfelter.
So while specs look very similar to stock might be diffferences in ramp rate,lobe types,etc.
Anyway I have to test out my current gt7 cam a bit more but so far think I like it a lot. It has basically no noticeable lope..didn't really want any. It has no cam surge at low speed which I absolutely hate. I still have to see how it will pull up top with planned upgraded turbos for now just been revving it out to 6000 or so and the standard turbos tend to drop off there.
Low end is great on my combo but its a 408 and have 3.54 gears, 34000 stall but big afr 225 heads. So hard to say how much the cam helps or hurts low end with my combo.
I am hoping cam will pull to 7000 max rpm occasionally if need that for track mph reasons but mostly would keep 6500 redline as my daily driving rpm limit and would shift bit under that .
Its so hard to believe that those small dur and lift numbers are worth good power. I would think a bigger cam would definately make more... and still be streetable. But I don't know jack about how to spec a cam ..LOL
With turbo/supers cams dont matter for a whole lot. Its just making your internals stable enough to handle high boost, lowering CR and then turning the dial. Thanks the beauty of em!
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My theory is: "if it makes power N/a, its gonna make power under boost"
This theory has held truth with all my turbo 4 bange honda builds.
Soo im gonna keep my TREX v2 in my engine with my 88mm and see what happens! hahaha
This theory has held truth with all my turbo 4 bange honda builds.
Soo im gonna keep my TREX v2 in my engine with my 88mm and see what happens! hahaha
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Verdad Gallardo I think thats one of the nice things about FI cars . You can go with a no lope cam. You can go with pretty tame cam and not have the dreadful low speed surging that have seen in so many NA builds and yes tuners like to tell you then can tame those big cams and get rid of the low end surge ,well sorry don't believe them.
And low end surge is really horrible to live with in a daily driven thru a lot of traffic car.
Also you don't need to go super high lift on FI cams fact better to keep the lift conversative like under 600 to allow headroom under boost and to help the valve springs live longer.NA guy with very high lift cam has to change out springs pretty much every year..no thanks!
And then you get the wierd powerbands when you go to crazy on cam. Wind up with nothing down low just all way up in the mid and high end of the powerband.
I like that can have it all with FI and reasonable cam.
And low end surge is really horrible to live with in a daily driven thru a lot of traffic car.
Also you don't need to go super high lift on FI cams fact better to keep the lift conversative like under 600 to allow headroom under boost and to help the valve springs live longer.NA guy with very high lift cam has to change out springs pretty much every year..no thanks!
And then you get the wierd powerbands when you go to crazy on cam. Wind up with nothing down low just all way up in the mid and high end of the powerband.
I like that can have it all with FI and reasonable cam.
I think it really depends on how much money you want/can spend on a build. If you have an all motor cam and getting ready to boost it and are on a budget, then no, it is not worth the effort of swapping out the cams. I am not saying the gains aren't worth it, but when it comes to buying another cam, it can run you an additional $350-450. Also, you have to keep bleedoff into consideration as well.
Working with my engine builder and his engineer friend at Comp Cams they cam up with a pretty large cam. I would have picked something in the high 220's low 230's and less lift, but we will see how it works. LSL lobes 243/247 .624/.624 on a 116 lobe sep, 114 ICL and with 2 degrees of advance ground in. Plan is using twin Master Power T70's on my 9.3:1 370.
I think thats one of the nice things about FI cars . You can go with a no lope cam. You can go with pretty tame cam and not have the dreadful low speed surging that have seen in so many NA builds and yes tuners like to tell you then can tame those big cams and get rid of the low end surge ,well sorry don't believe them.
And low end surge is really horrible to live with in a daily driven thru a lot of traffic car.
Also you don't need to go super high lift on FI cams fact better to keep the lift conversative like under 600 to allow headroom under boost and to help the valve springs live longer.NA guy with very high lift cam has to change out springs pretty much every year..no thanks!
And then you get the wierd powerbands when you go to crazy on cam. Wind up with nothing down low just all way up in the mid and high end of the powerband.
I like that can have it all with FI and reasonable cam.
And low end surge is really horrible to live with in a daily driven thru a lot of traffic car.
Also you don't need to go super high lift on FI cams fact better to keep the lift conversative like under 600 to allow headroom under boost and to help the valve springs live longer.NA guy with very high lift cam has to change out springs pretty much every year..no thanks!
And then you get the wierd powerbands when you go to crazy on cam. Wind up with nothing down low just all way up in the mid and high end of the powerband.
I like that can have it all with FI and reasonable cam.
man, thats the only thing i don't like about FI, but i still get what your saying. i daily drive a big, nasty, surging, stalling cam and i love it! i'm gonna miss my old cam when i get my D-1, but i think it will be worth it.lol i know it sounds strange, but i'm weird like that.lol
as they say "To each his own"
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Working with my engine builder and his engineer friend at Comp Cams they cam up with a pretty large cam. I would have picked something in the high 220's low 230's and less lift, but we will see how it works. LSL lobes 243/247 .624/.624 on a 116 lobe sep, 114 ICL and with 2 degrees of advance ground in. Plan is using twin Master Power T70's on my 9.3:1 370.
I'm using Probe -16cc dished pistons. Part number 14510.
http://www.probeindustries.com/Chevy...ons_s/1022.htm
http://www.probeindustries.com/Chevy...ons_s/1022.htm
man, thats the only thing i don't like about FI, but i still get what your saying. i daily drive a big, nasty, surging, stalling cam and i love it! i'm gonna miss my old cam when i get my D-1, but i think it will be worth it.lol i know it sounds strange, but i'm weird like that.lol
as they say "To each his own"
as they say "To each his own"
So cam surging drives me absolutely nuts. I got sick of my manual also . Now with this grandma cam and my new 4l80 with the 3.54 rear gears and 3400 yank stall I love driving my car in the city and don't care how heavy the traffic gets. Just kick back no surge, no heavy clutch pedals or touchy clutches. No missifts,short shifts,3 to 2 shifts, hitting the limiter..
I have had the big mean cams in my past musclecars like 400cube 80 TA.In an old musclecar its pretty much expected.
As said to me the best thing about my TT car is just how streetable it is. You can drive it around and it feels like perfectly normal NA almost stock feel.
3.54 gears are not that steep,3400 stall feels a bit loose but not bad.
Cam has no lope no surge.Compression was kept to reasonable 9.5 to 1.
You can ***** it around off boost although a built 408 is still pretty strong off boost but then hit boost and warp speed scotty. Car goes to complete animal true Bruce Banner to Incredible hulk personality and haven't even put any spray thru it yet..
But sorry to go off track. If you like big surging lopey cams then hey its your money and your ride.Also the big cams tend to really restrict useable power band. My cam seems to give a nice very broad powerband. And that is good too in a street car.
