To or Not-To... Stock internals turbo build
To or Not-To... Stock internals turbo build So I deleted my other thread. I done some number crunching on how much it will cost me to have my LS1 rebuilt with forged internals and the cost of buying a new shortblock and selling my shortblock. Came to a conclusion that I'm leaning toward going with the stock shortblock for now... If it decides to blow later on with a conservative tune then I'll only be losing the cost of my stock internal shortblock in running condition plus engine swap labor to switch to a forged shortblock.
I will be going with a mid sized cam, 6.0 heads, LS6 intake, either 48 or 60 lb injectors, a MP 70 turbo, and supporting driveline mods are a built 4l60e, 3400 stall, & a Moser 12 bolt. If I went with a forged shortblock now then I'd likely up the boost to about 14psi and it'd likely increase the odds of my 4l60e to screw up, as compared to only 8psi with the stock block. If I ran 8psi, how much power do you think I'd make and would it be enough to get me into mid to high 10's? Let me know what you guys think about this decision or whether you think it will be a big mistake. Also, one last thing, are the internals in the LQ4's any stronger than they are on the LS1's or are they pretty much the same?? Thanks for your time everyone.
I will be going with a mid sized cam, 6.0 heads, LS6 intake, either 48 or 60 lb injectors, a MP 70 turbo, and supporting driveline mods are a built 4l60e, 3400 stall, & a Moser 12 bolt. If I went with a forged shortblock now then I'd likely up the boost to about 14psi and it'd likely increase the odds of my 4l60e to screw up, as compared to only 8psi with the stock block. If I ran 8psi, how much power do you think I'd make and would it be enough to get me into mid to high 10's? Let me know what you guys think about this decision or whether you think it will be a big mistake. Also, one last thing, are the internals in the LQ4's any stronger than they are on the LS1's or are they pretty much the same?? Thanks for your time everyone.
The weight of your car will be the downfall if you're shooting for mid 10s and 500+/- wheel hp. Theres a local guy that did it N/A with a 396 in a full weight car - went 10.89@125ish I think it was (BerryWS6) on here.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...ics-video.html
He had full suspension, good 60' and great weather conditions on that run. Most of the time the car went 11.0s The right matched converter will be key to getting the car to launch well with the automatic and turbo. Just using the converter you had previously will be less than ideal if ET is your main goal with the car.
My '98 Z28 w/ a single PT76, 6.0L heads, 226ish cam, 9psi made 450/550 thru a vigilante triple disc and 10 bolt, about 3600 raceweight, and went 11.19@124 with a 1.78 60' and went door to door with the car above on the highway. I had the converter spec'd for more power, so it was a lil tight and had major effect on the way the car got outta the hole.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicles-...ics-video.html
He had full suspension, good 60' and great weather conditions on that run. Most of the time the car went 11.0s The right matched converter will be key to getting the car to launch well with the automatic and turbo. Just using the converter you had previously will be less than ideal if ET is your main goal with the car.
My '98 Z28 w/ a single PT76, 6.0L heads, 226ish cam, 9psi made 450/550 thru a vigilante triple disc and 10 bolt, about 3600 raceweight, and went 11.19@124 with a 1.78 60' and went door to door with the car above on the highway. I had the converter spec'd for more power, so it was a lil tight and had major effect on the way the car got outta the hole.
^ouch. I know this TA I have has ran an 11.2 NA the way it currently is. by spending thousands to build a turbo on it I'd definitely hope to go much faster lol. but your post has got me feeling uneasy about that.... And you're right about the weight of the car (with the roll cage and a turbo setup)...
Go for it. Concentrate on getting the weight down as you do it. There are threads on here about shaving turbine housings and such to save weight. Aside from that there are plenty of things inside the car that you can do to get the weight down without making it obvious or an all out race car. If you step up to meth injection you can get up to the high 500's to low 600's with stock internals reliably. Watch afr and timing! don't let it knock or you are done. JMHO
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if you are going to stay stock internals...get new head studs & ensure all gaskets/seals are good and STAY AT 8psi MAX. The LS1 components aren't really meant for boost. If you do a cam & heads with boost you will easily be at 480RWHP+ done right. the is a whole lot more to tell...if you want it to last for ultimate durability with boost, get it built for boost. Bottom line.
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I make 500 rwhp on a MP T70 and only 6 psi. Thats with a bone stock bottom end, stock heads, stock intake and a a non-boost friendly 231/237 112 cam. Thats is with pretty aggressive timing but I trust my tunner and I haven't blown up yet.
Through a 6 speed right? He'll be lucky to see 500 through an auto at less than 8psi with a MP70.
alright guys after weighing how much hp my car makes now and how much hp my car would make with FI it wouldn't be worth giving that a shot.
so, my new vision is either a built 347ci or 370ci. and that's where my money will be spent first, even if it takes much longer to gather the funds to get a turbo kit put together. once I have that built engine and the extra dough I plan to run around 13 psi with an IC and a good tune. probably best to spend a few hundred more for a better turbo than the t70...
so, my new vision is either a built 347ci or 370ci. and that's where my money will be spent first, even if it takes much longer to gather the funds to get a turbo kit put together. once I have that built engine and the extra dough I plan to run around 13 psi with an IC and a good tune. probably best to spend a few hundred more for a better turbo than the t70...
Im going to run stock internals(aside from ls6 yellows and chromemoly pushrods) with an mpt70 @ about 10 psi for the summer. Then tear down the motor next winter. That way Im not spending 10k in 1 shot and its a little more manageable money wise
