Looks good brutha 
Pics of the 91.5mm setup
Pics of the 91.5mm setup Pro Turbo Kits is building my system. Here's a couple of pics of the 396 LT1 91.5mm in progress. I'm going to pickup the car on Monday, can't wait 
Mild, they recommended it, just have to be coated. Stainless headers tend to crack with the thumper turbos and I don't feel like having them repaired throughout the year.
That turbo is plenty big for the LT1. I doubt I'll even get a chance to use max boost more then a couple of passes. When/if I go dart block I'll step up with a 94 or 98 mm
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Originally Posted by Reckless
Was wondering if LT1 heads would bolt up to a Dart block. Are you using LT1 style heads or SB2? Gonna be ready for the San Antonio race?
LT1 block and AFR LT1 heads. LT1 heads will bolt up to a Dart block but they would not be reversed cool. LT1 heads suck as far as getting maximum flow. IF you were to use a dart block the it would be cheaper to bolt on a set of 18 degree SBC heads. Goal is to have the car ready for SBSO but there is a lot of work that needs to be done. The car comes home monday, the motor needs to be pulled, gone through new pistons and new cam, new rings and new king bearings and has to be balanced. The cage is getting cut out of the car, a new moly 25.5 chasis will be built. THe wheelie bars are coming off and longer ones are going on. THe rear will be narrowed and the car will be mini tubed using all factory stock mounting points. New fiberglass hatch, lexan rear window, aluminum rear wing and LS1 front bumper, hood and fenders. Car has to be painted. New fuel system, all aluminum fuel cell and water storage tanks have to be built. Changing the front suspension a little, intercooler has to be fabed up, and lastly have to put a new LS1Tech sticker on the rear window. I think the car will be ready for SBSO no problems
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If you use the header to support the turbo than stainless is more likely to crack, but as long as you make a separate turbo support bracket to pull the weight off the header I would probably go with stainless.
Originally Posted by ChrisB
If you use the header to support the turbo than stainless is more likely to crack, but as long as you make a separate turbo support bracket to pull the weight off the header I would probably go with stainless.
I personally wounldn't even try to hang the turbo on the headers. Asking for problems
Get busy, you got ALOT to do
How big of a downpipe are you running? Looks like 4"? How much do you think it would cost to duplicate this style of kit, turbo, piping, intercooler, wastegate etc.? Thinking of going turbo after I tire of my H/C setup--nothing in the realm of a 91.5--probably will do an 80 then step up to an 88 someday. Who's turbo are you running? Who are you going to have tune the car? I recommend Harry Hruska from Precision Turbo-He'd have that thing purring like a kitten in no time. Congrats-looks damn good.
The weight of the turbo is not what eventually cracks the headers, its the constant hot heat produced from the turbo and then shut down cooling off. The heat just eats up the stainless. The downpipe is a 5". Inlet is 7 1/2". It will cost about $10K just for the turbo stuff. Look at about $2K for turbo, $2k for intercooler, $5K to build it all and a few odds and ends. Actually I'll have closer to $12k in mine. I'm running the newly released HKS GT2 wastegate that cost $750. My friend Marcus Williams does all of our tuning, including my friends D3C procharged SSO mustang, which was recently converted from a small frame 88 turbo. He has also tuned Madmans purple Procharged LT1 TA. Yes it's a bunch of wrok but nothing that can't be done. I'm only spenfing around $20K for it so no biggie, I'm young and have atleast 20 good working years left to pay for it 
Todd you won't have to worry about checking my suspension points, they'll be stock positioned.
Todd you won't have to worry about checking my suspension points, they'll be stock positioned.