Crank question
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Crank question Ok, so I was originally gonna build a 370 but missed my chance at a really cheap local LQ4, so I'm just gonna go with what I already have. I currently have a stock LS1 I got off a buddy that spun a bearing. No big deal right, just get a line hone on the block with ARP studs installed, get the crank turned & then grab the correct sized bearings.
But.... the snout of the crank needs some work. Has anyone has a stock crank bolt hole re-tapped or heli-coiled on a boosted car? Will it hold up or do I just need to scrap it & buy a good used crank? Of coarse it will be recieving a ARP crank bolt but I just wanted to see if its ok to re-use this one or a bad idea.
Thankx in advance.
But.... the snout of the crank needs some work. Has anyone has a stock crank bolt hole re-tapped or heli-coiled on a boosted car? Will it hold up or do I just need to scrap it & buy a good used crank? Of coarse it will be recieving a ARP crank bolt but I just wanted to see if its ok to re-use this one or a bad idea.
Thankx in advance.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
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From: Skiatook, OK
Turbo doesnt run off your pullies though, thats all powered by exhaust. Where as a blower like a Procharger run off your crank pulley.
I have heard that a blower will put more stress on the crank pulley. Hence my wondering weather a worked over snout is ok or not in a FI application. I did a little research in the internal section & saw someone had their crank drilled/tapped for a standard 3/4" bolt & just ran a washer with it.
Would this be the best option??
I have heard that a blower will put more stress on the crank pulley. Hence my wondering weather a worked over snout is ok or not in a FI application. I did a little research in the internal section & saw someone had their crank drilled/tapped for a standard 3/4" bolt & just ran a washer with it.
Would this be the best option??
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
Crank pinning is for the balancer pulley, to keep it from spinning on the crank snout. Has nothing to do with the balancer bolt that I know of anyway. If I'm incorrect someone please let me know.
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A helicoil will *probably* be ok, they expand when you thread the bolt, HOWEVER, I would probably just get a new stock crank, they are cheap, and thats a big helicoil. Better safe than sorry fo' sho.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Lewisville, Texas
Blowers exert alot of force on the nose of a crank, I would replace the crank and with a different crank in there you can use standard sized bearings. I would also pin the hub while your at it and go 8 rib as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Skiatook, OK
What about having it drilled/tapped for a 3/4" bolt? I believe it was Conan who had this done. I shot him a PM about it.
If its cheaper to get that done & grab a new grade 8 bolt/washer instead of buying another used stock crank in good condition & payin shipping on it, I'm guessing it could be a viable option?
If its cheaper to get that done & grab a new grade 8 bolt/washer instead of buying another used stock crank in good condition & payin shipping on it, I'm guessing it could be a viable option?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 1
From: Skiatook, OK
I currently have:
stock j-bracket from Procharger
3.4" 8-rib head unit pulley
7.56" 8-rib crank pulley
ATI dampener for A/C equipped cars
Just been gathering everything as I find good deals on parts.
What about having it drilled/tapped for a 3/4" bolt? I believe it was Conan who had this done. I shot him a PM about it.
If its cheaper to get that done & grab a new grade 8 bolt/washer instead of buying another used stock crank in good condition & payin shipping on it, I'm guessing it could be a viable option?
If its cheaper to get that done & grab a new grade 8 bolt/washer instead of buying another used stock crank in good condition & payin shipping on it, I'm guessing it could be a viable option?
. The only bitch I have to deal with is a torque spec for my new 3/4" grade 8 bolt. I now "sweat" my pully on the crank, I will heat the pully hub in a toaster oven to 250 deg for 20-30 min and I have even got a block of dry ice from the store and hold it on the crank snout for 5 min before the pully is done baking. Then I torque the bolt down to 100 ft #'s and let it go. So the choice is yours, find out how much a new crank cost VS machining what you have. 
I don't think that would work. Clamping the crank in a lathe insures the drill and tap is going into your crank, plum, level, square, straight, ect, ect...