need shortblock advice
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 308
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From: Austin, TX
need shortblock advice Ok, I'm starting to shop for a shortblock and wanted to get some general advice and see if anyone has used a shortblock from this vendor.
I'm eyeing this setup + looking at a few other vendors.
http://www.ls1speed.com/engine9.cfm
Anyone have a vendor recommendation?
It will be running -8.6cc pistons, 71cc ls1 heads stage II heads, a Comp 218/224 .562/.567 115 cam, D1 procharger at about 10-12psi.
I have ARP head studs, and a double roller. I'm currently planning on using stock head gaskets and the stock lifters and pushrods.
I have plenty of fuel + I have a big alky injection system.
Do you guys think this shortblock will support 650hp. What else should I consider?
I'm eyeing this setup + looking at a few other vendors.
http://www.ls1speed.com/engine9.cfm
Anyone have a vendor recommendation?
It will be running -8.6cc pistons, 71cc ls1 heads stage II heads, a Comp 218/224 .562/.567 115 cam, D1 procharger at about 10-12psi.
I have ARP head studs, and a double roller. I'm currently planning on using stock head gaskets and the stock lifters and pushrods.
I have plenty of fuel + I have a big alky injection system.
Do you guys think this shortblock will support 650hp. What else should I consider?
I am running their 9:1 shortblock and we're at 560rwhp with too loose of a stall (and a turbo 400) so it's making 650 crank or more right now.
I have the -8.6cc pistons.
I have the -8.6cc pistons.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 308
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I am running their 9:1 shortblock and we're at 560rwhp with too loose of a stall (and a turbo 400) so it's making 650 crank or more right now.
I have the -8.6cc pistons.
I have the -8.6cc pistons.
I'm also toying with the idea of a 383, but would rather put the extra $$s in an aftermarket PCM.
I think you will need a little more boost then 10-12 psi. Are you going to Cog it?? Why not go with a 383 with the price now of the Eagle crank being so low. You would have to go with different rods and pistons but hey. I went with Lunati pro-mod rods and custom Diamond pistons with a -22cc pistons and 71cc heads. Then you can run a little bigger cam with the extra cubic inches you would have.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
I think you will need a little more boost then 10-12 psi. Are you going to Cog it?? Why not go with a 383 with the price now of the Eagle crank being so low. You would have to go with different rods and pistons but hey. I went with Lunati pro-mod rods and custom Diamond pistons with a -22cc pistons and 71cc heads. Then you can run a little bigger cam with the extra cubic inches you would have.
I will not be doing a cog. It is going on a c5 and there are some pretty nice belt setups now available for the c5s. A&A corvette has a custom 8/6 rib that really wraps the pulley nicely.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Shinobi'sZ
Why don't you just get one of Andy's shortblocks from A&A Corvettes?????
8 second mod
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Im sure that Speed Inc one will do the trick, head gas will be a must, But Im sure Tom will work with you on that! Im also sure tom will stand behind his stuff! They have great customer siervice!!
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Forced Induction Heaven
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
So you guys dont think MLS head gaskets will do the trick and hold 15-16 psi Coged??
Quick,
Andy has great deals on Shortblocks and they are ready to go...he can also build to spec for the same price. He had a nice C5R block sitting in the shop last I saw him...but I would not bother with a C5R block..thats just me though...well unless they came down to $2000 or something. The C6 will be offering a standard 4" bore those block will be a nice swap in if everything else is the same.
Originally Posted by Shinobi'sZ
I am running the 2002+ MLS head gaskets and have a few dyno runs at 16+lbs of boost. I am also using ARP Head Studs...I would listen to a few others though that have "O" Ringed the heads for a stronger gasket seal. Raymer recommends "O" ringing above 16lbs of boost. I haven't done it yet because that boost setting is reserved for MT/ET's and not the street...and I am not going to pull my heads off until I blow a head gasket. From what I have read people have used them successfully (Harlan) with hi boost applications. There was just a thread on it a couple of weeks ago. Do a search for that topic and you will see.
Thanks
Kyle
My setup:
6.0 heads decked to 69cc
MLS 6.0 head gaskets
No o-ringing
Dave White head studs
LS6 block bored to 3.905
Diamond pistons
FMS 230/236/115 +2 cam
650rwhp with 10-12 psi on a 346ci with 100-104 unleaded sounds a bit low I think you will need to make more boost than that. I think that your camshaft sounds good but I would probably go bigger but try to keep the overlap minimal.
We kind of think my setup will peak around 6600 but we'll see. Right now the stall is so big that we can't really properly load the motor and make more boost.
6.0 heads decked to 69cc
MLS 6.0 head gaskets
No o-ringing
Dave White head studs
LS6 block bored to 3.905
Diamond pistons
FMS 230/236/115 +2 cam
650rwhp with 10-12 psi on a 346ci with 100-104 unleaded sounds a bit low I think you will need to make more boost than that. I think that your camshaft sounds good but I would probably go bigger but try to keep the overlap minimal.
We kind of think my setup will peak around 6600 but we'll see. Right now the stall is so big that we can't really properly load the motor and make more boost.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Forced Induction Heaven
I never have used steel main caps on any or my motors that were over 600rwhp..however if you don't mind spending the money they certainly will only strengthen your case. The LSx crank is so well supported I have never even seen or heard of anybody breaking the stock crank or screwing up a journal. When you are doing a Stroker/Big Bore it is a no brainer to use steel caps the whole rotating assembly is being replaced, so why not. Plus I think that you have to shim something in there to get everything to clear or shave some material off. It never hurts to have everything beefed up...it just places the strain somewhere else though..eventually that strain works its way from the car to your pocket book.
Just to clairify...
6.0 heads, 6.0 OEM MLS gaskets, standard ARP studs. That's what i've always used, never had any issues with lifting or pressure in the cooling system.
I had steel caps in the first motor i built, what a waste. lasted 1k miles, spun 3 mains, trashed the caps, crank, and block (I still think the line bore was off). I've since stuck w/ the factory caps and line bore. Until I split one, i'm just gonna stick with the PM caps and studs.
That motor was cursed i think, too many machining screw-ups on one block should be a sign
6.0 heads, 6.0 OEM MLS gaskets, standard ARP studs. That's what i've always used, never had any issues with lifting or pressure in the cooling system.
I had steel caps in the first motor i built, what a waste. lasted 1k miles, spun 3 mains, trashed the caps, crank, and block (I still think the line bore was off). I've since stuck w/ the factory caps and line bore. Until I split one, i'm just gonna stick with the PM caps and studs.
That motor was cursed i think, too many machining screw-ups on one block should be a sign