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396ci LT4, YSI and 15lb of boost dyno result :(

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Old 03-22-2010, 02:23 PM
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Tighten the plug and make a few passes before you yank the cam out. Try a few different shift points.... 6500, 6800, 7000.

If you trapped 145-147mph you'd be happy right? Put a number on that car, fugg the dyno.
Old 03-22-2010, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by white01ss
Damn Kaz. You've got two professionals that both said your cam is TOO ******* BIG. You can waste your time monkeying around with all the other parts in the system, but if your cam ain't right you're motor's never going to reach it's true potential no matter what improvements you make.
I'd take the advice of guys who have run the number over "professionals" any day. JMO.

Larry
Old 03-22-2010, 06:20 PM
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I run a Vortech aftercooler with a modified 3" intake a Cobra pump and an ice tank. It would make over 800 rwhp with race gas or meth. It did 772rwhp on pump and frankly we got tired and never tried to bump the timing (it was at 17 degrees up top) so it might do over 800 on pump.
Old 03-22-2010, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by engineermike
If you want to lose hp, then go ahead and put in a smaller camshaft.

As for the compression, your cylinder pressure is quite low right now. You have 2 options to raise it: raise boost, or raise compression. Boost will always make more power than compression, which is why you are in this forum to begin with. It's your choice.

Or, just check intercooler dP.

I'm honestly surprised that a) you haven't attacked the intercooler, which was never meant for that flow rate, b) people actually thing putting in a smaller camshaft will gain power, and c) people are recommending raising compression rather than boost.
^^^^^

I agree with this guy. He also isn't the only one disagreeing on the cam being too big. I also dont understand why people are saying to raise compression before adding boost. Its a lot easier to raise boost and see what happens then pull the motor and change pistons to raise compression.

Is the outlet of your Y-pipe 3", if it is I would change that too. A single 3" pipe will not support 600+ hp. I would go duals if I were you. It would take at least 4" in a single pipe to support that amount of power.
Old 03-22-2010, 09:05 PM
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The outlet of the y-pipe is 4''.
Old 03-22-2010, 09:15 PM
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ok just making sure you weren't trying to push all that power through 1 3" pipe.
Old 03-23-2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by white01ss
Damn Kaz. You've got two professionals that both said your cam is TOO ******* BIG. You can waste your time monkeying around with all the other parts in the system, but if your cam ain't right you're motor's never going to reach it's true potential no matter what improvements you make.
Damn, I guess I shouldn't have specced out a 250/256 on 115LSA cam for my new 421" then, huh?

There's plenty of 'pros' out there that have never put together a hot, larger cube SBC, LTx or LSx. So they drag out that tired advice that maybe used to be right and apply it to all this modern stuff. He's running excellent AFR 227's. Just needs to get the rest of the combo dialed in.

How about we change it to: "If your entire setup ain't right you're motor's never going to reach its true potential no matter what cam you have in there."?

Jim
Old 03-24-2010, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DeltaT
Damn, I guess I shouldn't have specced out a 250/256 on 115LSA cam for my new 421" then, huh?
It's well known that some overlap gives more power up top, but sacrifices low-end, drivability, and emissions. Spec too much overlap and raw fuel/air goes straight into the header, waving goodbye to Mr. Power Stroke. You have to admit that there's a point of diminishing returns with regard to overlap in a FI application.

Looks at these cams:

overlap = (((intake + exhaust) / 4) - LSA) * 2

LS9 - 211/230-122 overlap = -23.5
TR Blower 214/230-117 overlap = -12
EPP Blower 232/240 115 overlap = 6
Kaz's 248/254-114 overlap = 23
Jims 250/256-115 overlap = 23

The EPP cam has made over 800rwhp. The TR Blower over 700rwhp. The great thing about FI is that you don't have to sacrifice street manners to make excellent power, but to each his own.

Originally Posted by DeltaT
How about we change it to: "If your entire setup ain't right you're motor's never going to reach its true potential no matter what cam you have in there."? Jim
It does work both ways.

Dan

Last edited by white01ss; 03-24-2010 at 11:47 AM.
Old 03-24-2010, 02:21 PM
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This is what CamKing says about larger cams with blowers:

The smaller cam with more boost can make the same peak HP, but the bigger cam will make the power over a broader RPM range.
Mike Jones
Jones Cam Designs

Check over on speedtalk.com for some more technical discussions on this by serious motor builders.

Based on my cubes, and having full tunability with the Commander 950 Pro, I'm not worried about low end power being insufficient or emissions being excessive. This solid roller cam should still idle well at 800rpm with very little lope. After lash and adding in the 1.7I/1.8E rocker ratios the cam will net out around 244/249@.050, net lift .693/.702. YSi blower, E85 (straight gas optional), btw.

Jim
Old 03-25-2010, 06:29 PM
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I don't remember the OP being concerned with emissions or idle quality. If those are a factor, they by all means, put a peanut cam in it.

A YSi on big cubes with big heads will make big power with a big cam. All the race cars running YSi's are running monster cams.

To put it bluntly, with all other things the same, you WILL lose power with a baby cam in it.
Old 03-25-2010, 07:44 PM
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I'm with Engineermike and DeltaT on this, leave the cam alone!!!!!!

I mean Z8-the fastest blown LT1 posted his specs-did anyone pay attention? Z8 did run 8's-where's the cam with a little overlap running 8's?

Here's a dyno test I did:



Cam 9 has over 80 degrees of overlap, cam 84 had 50-Cam 9 was only pulled to 5500-just imagine if we pulled it to 6500?

Yank off that aftercooler, add a meth kit and let that YSi eat-you need to spin that bitch!!!!!!
Old 03-25-2010, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by eb02z06@ChampionMotors
...I mean Z8-the fastest blown LT1 posted his specs-did anyone pay attention? Z8 did run 8's-where's the cam with a little overlap running 8's?
I forgot about Chris! His cam was 24X/25X, YSi, 383, AFR 220's, etc... very similar to the OP's, but ran 8's!
Old 03-26-2010, 02:56 AM
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compcams replay:

"with the added cubic inch in your motor I do not see a real issue with the cam. We have had many customers run cams in this size and make good power. The cam is slightly larger than what I would have recommended to you, mostly due to the 8:1 compression, but I would not have been a lot smaller. Over all, the cam only has 23 degrees of overlap at .050. That is not much for a blower setup but it is a little up there. I could redesign the cam a little bit to pick up some power but I don’t think you will see major gains.

I would use a part number 07-000-8 with a grind number 3018/3377HR115+4. This is a custom grind camshaft and would take 3-5 business days to complete. I have provided the specs below.

Duration @ .050 242/250
Lift w/1.5 rockers .548/.540 (w/1.6 .584/.576)
LSA 115 degrees "
Old 03-26-2010, 03:20 AM
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I'll repeat to make it easy.

Spin the damn blower faster !
Old 03-26-2010, 03:28 AM
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After I finished of making the the new y-pipe, I did an intake manifold leak check. all rockers removed so the valves seals the intake. and found a major leak on injector #1 o-ring and some on the TB at the shaft bush.Injector #1 reseated , pressure checked and its not leaking anymore.Need to do something about the TB leak.
Attached Thumbnails 396ci LT4, YSI and 15lb of boost dyno result :(-y-pipe-flowmaster.jpg   396ci LT4, YSI and 15lb of boost dyno result :(-x-ypipe-new-ypipe.jpg   396ci LT4, YSI and 15lb of boost dyno result :(-intake-leak-check-02.jpg   396ci LT4, YSI and 15lb of boost dyno result :(-intake-leak-check.jpg  
Old 03-26-2010, 03:36 AM
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Both will make negligable difference unless the leak is absolutely massive.
Old 03-26-2010, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I'll repeat to make it easy.

Spin the damn blower faster !
I have 8'' crank pulley ready to fit.with the 2.75'' the ysi will be spinning 67243 rpm.
Old 03-26-2010, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Both will make negligable difference unless the leak is absolutely massive.
10 psi applied and as soon as I close the air vlave the pressure drops to zero.
Old 03-26-2010, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kazdevil
10 psi applied and as soon as I close the air vlave the pressure drops to zero.

That makes no sense.

Close what valve ?

As for blower....it amazes me how you guys dont suffer slip.

I currently run 8.5"/3" on a custom 12 rib, and unless I run the belt very tight, or with the brace fitted, slip can still be an issue.
Old 03-26-2010, 04:43 AM
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I have aircompressor then a main valve then a pressure regulator.I connected the air hose to the TB, opened the main valve and adjused the air pressure to 10 psi. made sure that the boost gauge in the car reads the same then I closed the main air valve at the compressor.You could hear the air escaping as soon as i applied air to the intake.My friend was watching the boost gauge in the car and the pressure dropped to zero as soon I closed the main air valve.

I use 8rib pulleis. spring tenssioner that orignaly came with the LT1 vortech kit.belt size is 40''.Its so tight that strugel to put it back on evry time. Now I need longer belt for the 8'' pulley. the tenssioner right now is maxed out.


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