PT88 Rebuild
04-21-2010, 05:00 PM
#21
Not all of us have deep pockets. My 8.95 street car ain't too bad on a $7K budget (complete fuel system, shortblock, cam and ALL the turbo stuff). I'll concede that I could still use another $4K of supporting mods and maybe squeeze an 8.50 out of her but I'd rather get back up and running quickly and then build on it along the way. I doubt that it would be faster if everything were the same and put together by a shop. It might look prettier but it wont run harder. 
Do you know anyone with an STS kit? They come with return oil pumps, dont they?
04-21-2010, 10:34 PM
#22
yes picks up crank case from driver valvecover through pcv valve in valvecover, then through a 1 way boost valve, then through a catch can then on to the intake via brake booster T
i have a fresh air source to ls6 valley cover via filtered turbo inlet pipe air.
if you dont have a vent and the engine is fairly tight, it will draw too much vacuum on the crankcase.. adding the fresh air fent gives it some, but not too much to allow the turbo to smoke.
i have a fresh air source to ls6 valley cover via filtered turbo inlet pipe air.
if you dont have a vent and the engine is fairly tight, it will draw too much vacuum on the crankcase.. adding the fresh air fent gives it some, but not too much to allow the turbo to smoke.
If anyone has one that could chime in, can you hear it over your external fuel pump?
04-21-2010, 11:05 PM
#26
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I think it would work good for you on a short run, they are hard to come by and STS doesnt like selling them seperate if you dont have a kit through them, If you want one shoot me a pm as I deal with a dealer and we can get parts seperatly.
04-21-2010, 11:12 PM
#27
No the STS ones are really not that loud at all, it basically is a low whirring sound. Kinda hard to describe but we have about 6 here locally and they all have a very tame and quiet sound to them. If you got it you would be hard pressed to hear it over your motor or exhaust. You would only hear it with the car off.
I think it would work good for you on a short run, they are hard to come by and STS doesnt like selling them seperate if you dont have a kit through them, If you want one shoot me a pm as I deal with a dealer and we can get parts seperatly.
I think it would work good for you on a short run, they are hard to come by and STS doesnt like selling them seperate if you dont have a kit through them, If you want one shoot me a pm as I deal with a dealer and we can get parts seperatly.
04-21-2010, 11:19 PM
#28
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I have to say they do just back up, if its not running then it has no flow. Thats why they recommend you run it key on engine off for a min to run the excess oil out. Honestly if you can get the other for $300 I would go for it as STS is around that price, I will try to get a solid price tomorrow.
04-22-2010, 12:00 AM
#29
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http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump $179
Do a search on this forum and you'll find there are a lot of options for pumps.
04-22-2010, 07:36 AM
#30
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I use the turboerx pump. They have two pumps to choose from. The base md for about 250.00 and the bad boy fot 100.00 more. The best thing about these pumps is that they create a considerable amount of vacuum on the turb drain. They can also be mounted above the turbo and they can be ran dry without damage. They nowhere as noisy as my aeromotiv fuel pump.
04-22-2010, 06:56 PM
#31
I took the rest of it apart today. No big deal really. The kit that I got included all new internal bolts with sealant, snap rings, spacers, bearings and a couple of other small components. Basically ALL the small stuff. The only pain in the *** was getting the snap rings out that hold in the bearing on the exhaust side as everything has to be done from the compressor side of the cartridge on these PT88's. I did have to order a new heatshield (I guess it's called) that goes behind the turbine wheel. The center was getting chewed up from age. The inside of the turbo was stamped 01/14/04 PT88 so it's an old fella. The piece set me back $50 plus the ride. Once I get it, I'll bring the finished assembly over to the guy I met yesterday so that he can rebalance it just incase.
04-29-2010, 05:49 PM
#32
Turbo's fixed. No more smoke out the down pipe. Just got it done and took her out for a beat run. Got her up to 200* ECT and was doing some 12 psi blasts and going hard on the brakes right after to a dead stop. This would always make it smoke. The only thing that I haven't tried yet is a warm start. That's the other way that it would smoke.
I initially bought a rebuild kit for $95 that included all the internal stuff (snap rings, spacers, bearings, oil seals, internal bolts with sealant, and a couple of the small hard parts that I don't know the name). Once I got it apart, I found that I needed to replace the heat shield cap thing that goes between the center cartridge and the turbine wheel. That was another $50. Made sure to line up everything good on the marks and that was it. Pretty simple really.
I initially bought a rebuild kit for $95 that included all the internal stuff (snap rings, spacers, bearings, oil seals, internal bolts with sealant, and a couple of the small hard parts that I don't know the name). Once I got it apart, I found that I needed to replace the heat shield cap thing that goes between the center cartridge and the turbine wheel. That was another $50. Made sure to line up everything good on the marks and that was it. Pretty simple really.
04-29-2010, 06:34 PM
#35
04-29-2010, 10:41 PM
#36
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Because I did not replace the compressor wheel or the turbine shaft, I just had to make sure that the nut, the shaft and the compressor wheel all lined up the same as they were. It is my understanding that they have to be balanced outside of the turbo, marked, taken apart and reassembled to the marks anyway. I called a local guy that rebuilds lots of marine turbos and he explained the process to me. He said I should be fine and that if I wasn't fine, "it would probably come apart fairly quickly so you will know."
05-01-2010, 12:04 PM
#37
Went to the track last night and made 3 passes at 16 psi.
1st Pass
9.44 @ 143.50 w/ 1.39 60'
Shortened the ramp on the boost controller from .4 to .3 seconds.
2nd Pass
9.357 @ 144.98 w/ 1.337 60'
3rd Pass
9.356 @ 145.01 w/ 1.336 60'
Pretty consistant.
1st Pass
9.44 @ 143.50 w/ 1.39 60'
Shortened the ramp on the boost controller from .4 to .3 seconds.
2nd Pass
9.357 @ 144.98 w/ 1.337 60'
3rd Pass
9.356 @ 145.01 w/ 1.336 60'
Pretty consistant.
05-01-2010, 01:36 PM
#39
Car runs at about 200* at full operating temp cruising at 65 mph.
