PT88 Rebuild
04-20-2010, 02:25 PM
#1
PT88 Rebuild I bought this PT88 turbo used from a buddy of mine about a year ago. My drain angle is not the best but I had been able to avoid smoking by running the Delvac 15-40 oil. Now, even that wont stop it from smoking when I come to a stop or on a warm start. Pretty embarrasing. So I ordered a rebuild kit and figured I'd give it the old college try.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
04-20-2010, 02:45 PM
#2
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I bought this PT88 turbo used from a buddy of mine about a year ago. My drain angle is not the best but I had been able to avoid smoking by running the Delvac 15-40 oil. Now, even that wont stop it from smoking when I come to a stop or on a warm start. Pretty embarrasing. So I ordered a rebuild kit and figured I'd give it the old college try.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
04-20-2010, 03:27 PM
#3
I bought this PT88 turbo used from a buddy of mine about a year ago. My drain angle is not the best but I had been able to avoid smoking by running the Delvac 15-40 oil. Now, even that wont stop it from smoking when I come to a stop or on a warm start. Pretty embarrasing. So I ordered a rebuild kit and figured I'd give it the old college try.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
So far I have been able to get the turbo off and the front cover comes right off. The exhaust housing is a different story. I am going to get a can of some sort of blaster to soak it in order to get the rear cover off.
15w-40 holy molasses! Thats some thick oil man. The viscosity index on Delvac is pretty high for a gas motor and a 40wt at that. But then again it's an HDEO, so it comes with the territory. Let us know how many bolts you break! lol
04-20-2010, 03:50 PM
#4
I like your "can do" attitude. I prefer freeze off or good old PB blaster. A little heat might get things motivated as well.
15w-40 holy molasses! Thats some thick oil man. The viscosity index on Delvac is pretty high for a gas motor and a 40wt at that. But then again it's an HDEO, so it comes with the territory. Let us know how many bolts you break! lol
15w-40 holy molasses! Thats some thick oil man. The viscosity index on Delvac is pretty high for a gas motor and a 40wt at that. But then again it's an HDEO, so it comes with the territory. Let us know how many bolts you break! lol
All the bolts have come right out of it. The penetrator is needed to seperate the cartridge (center section) from the exhaust housing cover. They are frozen together so the back cover wont even clock.
04-20-2010, 05:19 PM
#6
Electric or mechanical pump?
I was talking over my problem with the guys over at Race Parts and they said that some guys actually make like a cartridge out of a big pipe (1"), weld a male 3/4" pipe fitting on one end and then a -10 or -12 fitting on the other end. It makes a sort of secondary chamber for the oil to drop in when you come to a stop and fitting the inertia in the line. If I did something like this, I'd have to pump the oil back into the pan as I don't have enough drop.
I'm going to rebuild it and go from there.
I was talking over my problem with the guys over at Race Parts and they said that some guys actually make like a cartridge out of a big pipe (1"), weld a male 3/4" pipe fitting on one end and then a -10 or -12 fitting on the other end. It makes a sort of secondary chamber for the oil to drop in when you come to a stop and fitting the inertia in the line. If I did something like this, I'd have to pump the oil back into the pan as I don't have enough drop.
I'm going to rebuild it and go from there.
04-20-2010, 05:29 PM
#7
my vac comes from my intake manifold
re: rps' suggestion.. the oil comes out foamy and doesnt flow well.. they are suggesting a collection chamber below the turbo to let the oil get back to liquid so that it can roll down the drain better.
it only works if you have room.. i dont and it sounds like you don't either.
negative pressure in the crankcase definitely helps draw oil out of my horizontal drain.
re: rps' suggestion.. the oil comes out foamy and doesnt flow well.. they are suggesting a collection chamber below the turbo to let the oil get back to liquid so that it can roll down the drain better.
it only works if you have room.. i dont and it sounds like you don't either.
negative pressure in the crankcase definitely helps draw oil out of my horizontal drain.
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04-20-2010, 06:20 PM
#8
Yeah but it also has the good **** that they took out of the regular oils. My logic is that although I don't have an oil temp gage (I'm affraid to know), I bet the oil gets a bit hotter than in an NA or nitrous motor as the oil is cooling a turbo that is likely glowing red under boost. I never run it or even rev it hard after a cold start.
All the bolts have come right out of it. The penetrator is needed to seperate the cartridge (center section) from the exhaust housing cover. They are frozen together so the back cover wont even clock.
All the bolts have come right out of it. The penetrator is needed to seperate the cartridge (center section) from the exhaust housing cover. They are frozen together so the back cover wont even clock.
Vacuum to the crankcase huh. **** one more thing to put on my list!.......
04-20-2010, 10:01 PM
#10
my vac comes from my intake manifold
re: rps' suggestion.. the oil comes out foamy and doesnt flow well.. they are suggesting a collection chamber below the turbo to let the oil get back to liquid so that it can roll down the drain better.
it only works if you have room.. i dont and it sounds like you don't either.
negative pressure in the crankcase definitely helps draw oil out of my horizontal drain.
re: rps' suggestion.. the oil comes out foamy and doesnt flow well.. they are suggesting a collection chamber below the turbo to let the oil get back to liquid so that it can roll down the drain better.
it only works if you have room.. i dont and it sounds like you don't either.
negative pressure in the crankcase definitely helps draw oil out of my horizontal drain.
I been dicking around with this thing all night. I got the exhaust housing free enough to where it will spin but it still doesn't want to pop off. Gonna let is soak up this liquid wrench stuff over night. Hopefully it comes off in the morning. If not, I'll swing by my engine builder's shop and have him find the right tool for me.
04-21-2010, 07:43 AM
#11
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No offense, but if you can't figure out how get the housings off the turbo, you shouldn't be even thinking about tearing it apart to rebuild...considering the rpms they turn, balance is crucial...you run the risk of really hurting it and costing you more in the long run 
04-21-2010, 08:18 AM
#12
None taken. If I were to quit everytime someone told me I shouldn't be doing something and had to pay a pro, my car would still be in the 10's. This really isn't rocket science. Just trying to seperate one housing from the other. I just don't the right tools. My engine builder's got a great set of tools. Lol
04-21-2010, 08:25 AM
#14
None taken. If I were to quit everytime someone told me I shouldn't be doing something and had to pay a pro, my car would still be in the 10's. This really isn't rocket science. Just trying to seperate one housing from the other. I just don't the right tools. My engine builder's got a great set of tools. Lol
04-21-2010, 02:01 PM
#16
None taken. If I were to quit everytime someone told me I shouldn't be doing something and had to pay a pro, my car would be in the 7.5's. This really isn't rocket science. Just trying to seperate one housing from the other. I just don't the right tools. My engine builder's got a great set of tools. Lol
04-21-2010, 02:15 PM
#17
Electric or mechanical pump?
I was talking over my problem with the guys over at Race Parts and they said that some guys actually make like a cartridge out of a big pipe (1"), weld a male 3/4" pipe fitting on one end and then a -10 or -12 fitting on the other end. It makes a sort of secondary chamber for the oil to drop in when you come to a stop and fitting the inertia in the line. If I did something like this, I'd have to pump the oil back into the pan as I don't have enough drop.
I'm going to rebuild it and go from there.
I was talking over my problem with the guys over at Race Parts and they said that some guys actually make like a cartridge out of a big pipe (1"), weld a male 3/4" pipe fitting on one end and then a -10 or -12 fitting on the other end. It makes a sort of secondary chamber for the oil to drop in when you come to a stop and fitting the inertia in the line. If I did something like this, I'd have to pump the oil back into the pan as I don't have enough drop.
I'm going to rebuild it and go from there.
04-21-2010, 03:28 PM
#18
I've been resisting that thought.
I've never heard one running but I imagine it sounding like another fuel pump whining in the front and it's a big turn off. If this rebuild doesn't stop it from smoking, that's next on the list.
While at the engine builder's today, I made a great local turbo contact. The guy rebuilds marine turbos. Talk about lucky. He's the one that popped the housing off for me. I guess that the marine turbos are salt water cooled so you can imagine the condition of those things.
I've never heard one running but I imagine it sounding like another fuel pump whining in the front and it's a big turn off. If this rebuild doesn't stop it from smoking, that's next on the list.
While at the engine builder's today, I made a great local turbo contact. The guy rebuilds marine turbos. Talk about lucky. He's the one that popped the housing off for me. I guess that the marine turbos are salt water cooled so you can imagine the condition of those things.
04-21-2010, 03:47 PM
#19
Not all of us have deep pockets. My 8.95 street car ain't too bad on a $7K budget (complete fuel system, shortblock, cam and ALL the turbo stuff). I'll concede that I could still use another $4K of supporting mods and maybe squeeze an 8.50 out of her but I'd rather get back up and running quickly and then build on it along the way. I doubt that it would be faster if everything were the same and put together by a shop. It might look prettier but it wont run harder. 
04-21-2010, 04:04 PM
#20
i have a fresh air source to ls6 valley cover via filtered turbo inlet pipe air.
if you dont have a vent and the engine is fairly tight, it will draw too much vacuum on the crankcase.. adding the fresh air fent gives it some, but not too much to allow the turbo to smoke.