what happened to OFI?
#1
what happened to OFI?
That was the kit I was gunna go with a few years ago since it required almost no modifications. I saw they aren't a vendor on here anymore? Did they fck people over?
I've been out of it for awhile busy with other things. Is there a kit available now that requires little modifications similar to the OFI kit? Man this sucks
sean
I've been out of it for awhile busy with other things. Is there a kit available now that requires little modifications similar to the OFI kit? Man this sucks
sean
#4
I see modular turbo is coming up with something decent, checking into kentucky turbo right now. I dont know how you guys can afford these kits man.. For something top notch youre talken 6-7k just for the kit, and then to get the most out of it you gotta rip the bottom end out of the motor and theres another what 4k, upgrade to a 9 inch or 12 bolt, next thing u know theres 15k easy. hmmm
#5
Call Josh at Kentucky Turbo. Very nice Guy who builds superb Turbo kits. Yeah FI ain't cheap. I have about 30k into my build when all is said and done. And it probably wont stop there LOL.
#7
i should have mine done for a little under 6k, but im building the whole setup myself. the trick to keeping the price down is buy used parts, i got my moser 33 spline 12 bolt with wilwood brakes and a BMR TA all for 1600 bucks. if your patient then it helps to spread out the cost too.
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#8
I see modular turbo is coming up with something decent, checking into kentucky turbo right now. I dont know how you guys can afford these kits man.. For something top notch youre talken 6-7k just for the kit, and then to get the most out of it you gotta rip the bottom end out of the motor and theres another what 4k, upgrade to a 9 inch or 12 bolt, next thing u know theres 15k easy. hmmm
welcome to the world of turbo
#9
Welp those of you who are able to drop this much money, fill me in on where it comes from cause I'd like to get in on it lol, my pockets arent that deep but im doing the best I can at the moment in this **** economy
#11
+1 on used stuff.
I got my:
1500 Entire forged stroker assembly, Eagle Crank, Eagle H-Beam rods w/ ARP bolts, JE 4.030 Stroker pistons
-700 Guy I bought it from did a horrible job shipping it, shipping company dropped the box which bent the reluctor ring on the crankshaft, and nicked a few of the pistons, guy tried to leave me hanging, paypal reimbursed me partially for the jacked up parts
500 L92 heads fully assembled with good stuff
500 LQ4 longblock
-250 Sold the stock heads off it
150 Comp Cams Custom Camshaft
75 Comp Cams Hardened Pushrods
50 MSD Plug Wires
100 LS7 Lifters
250 L76 Intake
650 Procharger
200 LS7 Injectors (Includes making them 60lb injectors)
75 Vortech Mondo Bypass Valve
100 Both fans and a Procharger fan shroud
100 ARP Head Studs
125 Cloyes Double Adjustable Roller Timing Chain
250 Holley 90mm Throttle Body
50 Autometer Mechanical Boost Gauge
75 Autometer Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge
50 Injector Adapters
50 9" Housing
350 Richmond Full Spool with Motive 3.89 gears and 9" center section already set up
350 Cartek Racing stage 5 Clutch and PP (POS Went out on me a week later, DO NOT BUY USED CLUTCHES)
200 Spec Aluminum Flywheel
370 Ceramic Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes
125 Procharger J Bracket and several 6 rib pullies
175 Lakewood Boxed LCA and Adjustable Panhard Bar
125 KYB AGX Front Adjustable Shocks
= $5590
Everything else I bought was new
250 Labor to build a 9" housing for my 2000 TA
350 Labor to Tig weld my intercooler piping and Get the Griffon Radiator fitted.
60 SS Hose Braid Kit
40 SS Flexible Lower Radiator Hose
170 Griffin race radiator
900 Parts to rebuild my T-56
140 Cometic Head Gaskets
380 Ebay 4" Intercooler + Piping, some silicone connectors and T-Clamps
20 Pep Boys 4" 90 degree Silicone hose
250 Parts and Labor to have true duals ran
350 Engine line honing, boring, balancing, blueprinting, freezeplugs,
180 Clevite Race Bearings (Rods and Mains)
250 GM Gasket Set
8 Weld in bung for a wideband
8 Weld in bung for steam hose to Griffin Radiator
70 EPP's Large K&N Air Filter
14 Valve Cover Gaskets
250 Dual Walbro 255s
100 Had to get the Cartek clutch re-lined
25 Brass T Block, brass barbed fittings and fuel pressure line for inside the tank
15 Fittings for Boost Gauge
75 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
20 Engine Paint
7 Wix Oil Filter
25 Spark Plugs
30 Engine Oil
20 Belt for Procharger
130 Melling Oil Pump
125 Drilled and slotted rotors
75 Wagoner Ceramic Thermoquiet Brake Pads
60 LS6 Coolant plugs and crossover
20 Grade 8 Internal Hex head bolts to hold Procharger to J Bracket
At least 50 bucks in bolts and **** I wanted to replace or lost. Bolts get expensive at 3 bucks a bolt...
= $4467
Grand total of : $10,054
**** that I still need:
Adjustable Torque Arm
Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Front and rear coil over shocks
Subframe Connectors
Wideband Gauge and Sensor
SD Tune
Nasty or Aeromotive Fuel Rails
SS Fuel Line, Filter, Fittings, etc etc
I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel. I dont make an assload of money, I dont live with mommy and daddy. I have a wife and 2 kids. If you ask yourself if its possible to have a bad *** supercharged street car. You damn right it is. You just have to put your mind to it and keep faith that one day, that car will take you for the ride of your life. Its taking about 2 years to get to the point I am at now, and I am almost done. I cant wait!
I got my:
1500 Entire forged stroker assembly, Eagle Crank, Eagle H-Beam rods w/ ARP bolts, JE 4.030 Stroker pistons
-700 Guy I bought it from did a horrible job shipping it, shipping company dropped the box which bent the reluctor ring on the crankshaft, and nicked a few of the pistons, guy tried to leave me hanging, paypal reimbursed me partially for the jacked up parts
500 L92 heads fully assembled with good stuff
500 LQ4 longblock
-250 Sold the stock heads off it
150 Comp Cams Custom Camshaft
75 Comp Cams Hardened Pushrods
50 MSD Plug Wires
100 LS7 Lifters
250 L76 Intake
650 Procharger
200 LS7 Injectors (Includes making them 60lb injectors)
75 Vortech Mondo Bypass Valve
100 Both fans and a Procharger fan shroud
100 ARP Head Studs
125 Cloyes Double Adjustable Roller Timing Chain
250 Holley 90mm Throttle Body
50 Autometer Mechanical Boost Gauge
75 Autometer Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge
50 Injector Adapters
50 9" Housing
350 Richmond Full Spool with Motive 3.89 gears and 9" center section already set up
350 Cartek Racing stage 5 Clutch and PP (POS Went out on me a week later, DO NOT BUY USED CLUTCHES)
200 Spec Aluminum Flywheel
370 Ceramic Coated Pacesetter Long Tubes
125 Procharger J Bracket and several 6 rib pullies
175 Lakewood Boxed LCA and Adjustable Panhard Bar
125 KYB AGX Front Adjustable Shocks
= $5590
Everything else I bought was new
250 Labor to build a 9" housing for my 2000 TA
350 Labor to Tig weld my intercooler piping and Get the Griffon Radiator fitted.
60 SS Hose Braid Kit
40 SS Flexible Lower Radiator Hose
170 Griffin race radiator
900 Parts to rebuild my T-56
140 Cometic Head Gaskets
380 Ebay 4" Intercooler + Piping, some silicone connectors and T-Clamps
20 Pep Boys 4" 90 degree Silicone hose
250 Parts and Labor to have true duals ran
350 Engine line honing, boring, balancing, blueprinting, freezeplugs,
180 Clevite Race Bearings (Rods and Mains)
250 GM Gasket Set
8 Weld in bung for a wideband
8 Weld in bung for steam hose to Griffin Radiator
70 EPP's Large K&N Air Filter
14 Valve Cover Gaskets
250 Dual Walbro 255s
100 Had to get the Cartek clutch re-lined
25 Brass T Block, brass barbed fittings and fuel pressure line for inside the tank
15 Fittings for Boost Gauge
75 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
20 Engine Paint
7 Wix Oil Filter
25 Spark Plugs
30 Engine Oil
20 Belt for Procharger
130 Melling Oil Pump
125 Drilled and slotted rotors
75 Wagoner Ceramic Thermoquiet Brake Pads
60 LS6 Coolant plugs and crossover
20 Grade 8 Internal Hex head bolts to hold Procharger to J Bracket
At least 50 bucks in bolts and **** I wanted to replace or lost. Bolts get expensive at 3 bucks a bolt...
= $4467
Grand total of : $10,054
**** that I still need:
Adjustable Torque Arm
Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Front and rear coil over shocks
Subframe Connectors
Wideband Gauge and Sensor
SD Tune
Nasty or Aeromotive Fuel Rails
SS Fuel Line, Filter, Fittings, etc etc
I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel. I dont make an assload of money, I dont live with mommy and daddy. I have a wife and 2 kids. If you ask yourself if its possible to have a bad *** supercharged street car. You damn right it is. You just have to put your mind to it and keep faith that one day, that car will take you for the ride of your life. Its taking about 2 years to get to the point I am at now, and I am almost done. I cant wait!
#12
Also I wouldnt recommend saving until you have all the money to do it, unless you are an excellent saver or are able to put several thousand dollars into your car per month. When you get a couple hundred bucks jump on tech and check the classifieds section. Find something you need for your build and get it. If you dont you will end up pissing your money away on happymeals and candy. Good Luck folks
Stephen
Stephen
#13
#14
Also I wouldnt recommend saving until you have all the money to do it, unless you are an excellent saver or are able to put several thousand dollars into your car per month. When you get a couple hundred bucks jump on tech and check the classifieds section. Find something you need for your build and get it. If you dont you will end up pissing your money away on happymeals and candy. Good Luck folks
Stephen
Stephen
and in the mean while youll do nothing except get pissed off cuz you feel like your getting no where, atleast when you spread it out and buy some stuff here and there, you feel like your making progress.
Im actually on my second turbo build inside a year. The first one never got finished, ended up selling everything to a friend and he turbod his car. This time is different. Taking my time. Ill savor victory when the time comes
#15
By the time I did a motor, trans, rear, safety equip, fuel system, FI kit, etc, even doing all the work myself and getting good deals, I'm still into it almost $20g's. It's not cheap to be reliable and fast. As the saying goes, You Can Only Pick Two: Cheap, Fast, Reliable.
#16
lol pber, that car was my daily driver so i didnt have to drive the ss, and then it became a project cause I wanted to mess around on the street. Car will go low 10s maybe touch 9s with about 6-7k invested, its almost done. I would be sad to sell everything, maybe get like 5500 out of it and only be able to buy a few things for the SS, theres just too much time invested in that turd to stop now. Makes a sneaky street car and is different.. The ss fully built would put me in debt, the way I build things I usually tend to aim at the best parts, I cant stand breaking parts and being shut down for the week. And anyone who is able to drop a few K on their car a month has to be making a good bit of $$, atleast 6-7k+ a month. Yeh not me lol
#18
jk
But yeah, you shouldnt really look into FI, unless you got some dough to throw around. As soon as the kit is done.... oh beleive me.... your not done. Problems come up alot of times.
#20
You can go the cheap route and use the ebay kit but it has a little knick knacks that you have the modify the kit to get it to fit on the car. Another option is the get the turbo headers from stainless works and get an exhaust shop to make your crossover and buy a turbo from Modular turbo and make your own cold side and get an intercooler. Slowly but surely you will get it put together.
With the Kytp kit some modification to your car will have to be done such as move the alternator up top. I don't know if the kit is still built like that.
The Modular Turbo kit is supposed to go on the car and not have to move a thing. It also has an air-to-water intercooler so you won't have to cut the front cap of you car to get airflow for the air-to-air intercooler.
With the Kytp kit some modification to your car will have to be done such as move the alternator up top. I don't know if the kit is still built like that.
The Modular Turbo kit is supposed to go on the car and not have to move a thing. It also has an air-to-water intercooler so you won't have to cut the front cap of you car to get airflow for the air-to-air intercooler.