would anybody have any idea why I can only get about 7 pounds of boost ? thats with a 2.75 pulley. I,ve got dart heads and a fast intake. could that have anything to do with it? I,ve also got a small cam, not sure what size, it was in the car when I biught it. My guess is that it,s small. Thanks

 

When I had a 418 in mine with the g-trim it made 5 lbs. with the 2.75 pulley. It's only an 800 cfm blower (a D1SC is 1450, i think, for comparison).

 

dont forget headers and exhaust make a difference to, as you will lose some boost with a more free flowing set-up.
i see a solid 8pounds with a 2.75 pulley,
and all i have is the sc, and full exhaust.

 

With my G-trim I see 9.2 pounds of boost at 65k rpms with 2.95" pulley and a custom front mount intercooler. The only mods I really have besides my blower are long tubes, 3" true dual exhaust and a ported MAF/throttle body. I set my MAF up so it is blow through--after the intercooler right before the throttle body. I have 2001Verts old custom Intercooler piping to mate to my front mount. I'd bet if you pick up a 2.65" pulley and relocate your maf after the blower and before the the throttle body (blow through) you'll see a pound or two gain of boost. Hope this helps.

 

thats pretty impressive on a 2.95 pulley. what kind of numbers are you putting down? would you happen to have a picture of your setup that you can post?

 

Thanks. I made 484 rwhp and 452rwtq on a mustang dyno. I'd guess it be around 500 on the dynojet, since the mustang tends to read a little more accurate IMO. I just recently finished my install. I still have to get some pictures up. It has been nice in Ohio lately so I have had my car out almost every day. I was really surprised I made 9.2 pounds with the 2.95". I was thinking I would need to go with the a 2.75 or even 2.65" to get there since there is a lot more routing for my plumbing to the front mounted air to air IC. Also, I upgraded a few other parts when I put together my kit, you could consider this too if you havent already upgraded:
60lb injectors
Walboro in tank Fuel Pump
HKS bypass valve-vented to the atomosphere
large air to air intercooelr 32x12x4-just an ebay universal
ported MAF and Throttle Body and you can relocate your MAF as I mentioned to make it a blow through set up. I think this really helps because it is not restricting your air as it is being forced by your supercharger rather than being an obstruction right after the airbox and before the blower. Also if you get a better bypass valve than the cheap bosch one supplied in the kit and vent it to the atomosphere, it will help keep a lot of the hot air from recirculating back to your blower, which in my opinion is far more efficent. less heat=more power and lower IATS.

 

LSpeed1,
I forgot I had uploaded a picture of my custom IC tubing after I purchased it from 2001WS6Vert. Here is a link. He fabbed it all up when he was running his t-trim on his car, then he sold it to me when he upgraded to a Ysi and went with an upgraded air to water IC from rmcr.

Heres the link to the picture of my IC tubing:https://ls1tech.com/forums/picture.p...ictureid=42559

 

with what I have on the car my 7 pounds does,nt sound too far off.I am running speed density so there,s no restriction there. And a maxflow bypass.(Is there any way to make sure it,s working right) I found a place that has 2.50 pulleys but they,re $150 bucks.I,ll probably still get one

 

what kind of numbers are you putting down phatasp?
well there are alot of factors that need to be considered with how much boost your cars making like heads, cam, exhaust, altitude, and so on...
i bet your car still pulls hard though.....

i put down 465whp and 466wtq on a dynojet, althought my aftercooler wasnt working because the waterpump for it went south. so im sure my car was running way hot. so im hoping to be putting down around 5xx with it hooked up. all i have done is the vortech with full exhaust. and +1 for the 60pound injectors. the ones that i have(that came with the kit) are already at there limits.

 

Any rubber dust behind the pulley or on the engine? I often suspect belt slip with numbers like yours. Going to a 2.5" is a stretch - belt slip is much easier on those tiny pullies, you might end up worse than you are now.

Jim

 

Im sure you will be very close if not at 500rwhp with your set-up after you get all the kinks worked out. I figured the 38lb injectors that came with the kit would basically be maxed out. The 60lb injectors are a great pick and they leave a lot of room to grow in the future. Let me know when you get some new numbers after you replace your pump to your aftercooler. Looking forward to hearing the results

 

+1 to that Jim. I have heard a few guys mention they got belt slip when they went with the 2.5" pulley. I have heard guys that went with the 2.65" haven't had issues. Phatasp, there are also a lot of places around that i'm sure you could get a better deal on one of these pulleys than $150. I'll do a search and see if I come up with anything. Personally, I'd probably go to a 2.65" if I had your set-up, i'd be a little leary going any smaller. Just my 2 cents.

 

what kind of numbers are you putting down phatasp?
well there are alot of factors that need to be considered with how much boost your cars making like heads, cam, exhaust, altitude, and so on...
i bet your car still pulls hard though.....

My best so far has been 11.03@ 125 so of course I want a 10.anything



Any rubber dust behind the pulley or on the engine? I often suspect belt slip with numbers like yours. Going to a 2.5" is a stretch - belt slip is much easier on those tiny pullies, you might end up worse than you are now.

Jim


I checked did,nt really see anything, thats kind of why I thinking the bypass valve. the pulley I was looking at is supposed to be no slip, thats one reason
i was considering it.
this is the setup

 

I would appreciate it it is a lot pricey, but they are supposed to be no slip. I guess for the money it would,nt hurt to try the 2.65. what I have is a 8 groove setup

 

What happens to the computer if you relocate the MAF from the intake side to the charge side? Would it need re-tuned? Would it just be better to remove it and go with a SD tune?

 

From what I've heard, it is alright to run your MAF for anything under 500rwhp, anything above go speed density. So it depends on what your set up is making. Also, I rely on my local speed shop to take care of all of my tuning (its a little over my head) I'd assume you'd want to re-tune just be on the safe side if you went either way. I intially set up my MAF blow through style then had my speed shop take care of all my tuning issues. If you are located anywhere in Ohio I could give you the name of my speed shop, they specialize in our LS series engines.

 

That's pretty much what I've read too. I am over 500 at the crank and I'm getting dyno tuned Thursday. I'm going to talk to him about removing the maf and going SD.

 

[QUOTE=transam151;13436618]Thanks. I made 484 rwhp and 452rwtq on a mustang dyno. I'd guess it be around 500 on the dynojet, since the mustang tends to read a little more accurate IMO. I just recently finished my install. I still have to get some pictures up. It has been nice in Ohio lately so I have had my car out almost every day. I was really surprised I made 9.2 pounds with the 2.95". I was thinking I would need to go with the a 2.75 or even 2.65" to get there since there is a lot more routing for my plumbing to the front mounted air to air IC. Also, I upgraded a few other parts when I put together my kit, you could consider this too if you havent already upgraded:
60lb injectors
Walboro in tank Fuel Pump
HKS bypass valve-vented to the atomosphere
large air to air intercooelr 32x12x4-just an ebay universal
ported MAF and Throttle Body and you can relocate your MAF as I mentioned to make it a blow through set up. I think this really helps because it is not restricting your air as it is being forced by your supercharger rather than being an obstruction right after the airbox and before the blower. Also if you get a better bypass valve than the cheap bosch one supplied in the kit and vent it to the atomosphere, it will help keep a lot of the hot air from recirculating back to your blower, which in my opinion is far more efficent. less heat=more power and lower IATS.[/Q

I know this is going to sound dumb, but you can ven,t the bypass to the atmosphere? then just cap the intake where it connects now?

 

[QUOTE=phatasp;13443829]
yes sir. i have an hks bov as well.

 

[QUOTE=LSpeed1;13445302]yes, it is that easy to vent to the atomosphere. Good picture of your set up LSpeed1 for example. I have an HKS as well, works pretty good. Im going to have to get some pics up soon to show you guys my front mount IC set-up