High RPM turbo cam?
High RPM turbo cam? I am a die hard m6 guy and will NEVER go auto, and i am limited with my rear end gearing (rx7) soo i need the RPMs to make it happen on the track.
Currently im a stock bottom end ls1 with a 88mm single and ideally i would need to make power to 7500. I know the stock Ls1, even with my katech rod studs wont do this, but i want to buy the cam for my forged engine now and run it. I currently have a TREX in there, and thats not going to work for me. I realize the A/R determines where the power comes in as well, but put all that aside, does anyone sell an off the shelfer cam like this?
I will grow into a forged 370 and upgrade the 88mm to a 91.5/T4.
It will be a street car with a fair amount of track use, but a TREX V2 cam is considered streetable to me. Soo it can be lumpy and obnoxious, and is actually preferred. On the forged motor of course, i plan to push for the 1k+ whp range.
Currently im a stock bottom end ls1 with a 88mm single and ideally i would need to make power to 7500. I know the stock Ls1, even with my katech rod studs wont do this, but i want to buy the cam for my forged engine now and run it. I currently have a TREX in there, and thats not going to work for me. I realize the A/R determines where the power comes in as well, but put all that aside, does anyone sell an off the shelfer cam like this?
I will grow into a forged 370 and upgrade the 88mm to a 91.5/T4.
It will be a street car with a fair amount of track use, but a TREX V2 cam is considered streetable to me. Soo it can be lumpy and obnoxious, and is actually preferred. On the forged motor of course, i plan to push for the 1k+ whp range.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
I am a die hard m6 guy and will NEVER go auto, and i am limited with my rear end gearing (rx7) soo i need the RPMs to make it happen on the track.
Currently im a stock bottom end ls1 with a 88mm single and ideally i would need to make power to 7500. I know the stock Ls1, even with my katech rod studs wont do this, but i want to buy the cam for my forged engine now and run it. I currently have a TREX in there, and thats not going to work for me. I realize the A/R determines where the power comes in as well, but put all that aside, does anyone sell an off the shelfer cam like this?
I will grow into a forged 370 and upgrade the 88mm to a 91.5/T4.
It will be a street car with a fair amount of track use, but a TREX V2 cam is considered streetable to me. Soo it can be lumpy and obnoxious, and is actually preferred. On the forged motor of course, i plan to push for the 1k+ whp range.
Currently im a stock bottom end ls1 with a 88mm single and ideally i would need to make power to 7500. I know the stock Ls1, even with my katech rod studs wont do this, but i want to buy the cam for my forged engine now and run it. I currently have a TREX in there, and thats not going to work for me. I realize the A/R determines where the power comes in as well, but put all that aside, does anyone sell an off the shelfer cam like this?
I will grow into a forged 370 and upgrade the 88mm to a 91.5/T4.
It will be a street car with a fair amount of track use, but a TREX V2 cam is considered streetable to me. Soo it can be lumpy and obnoxious, and is actually preferred. On the forged motor of course, i plan to push for the 1k+ whp range.
A friend here in the UK has one with a Viper rear diff. No need for high rpm's anymore.
Its soon to be a 427 TT too !!!! It should go like a rocket.
As my car sits, with stock T56, 3.90s, and 28" tall tire i calculated i could get 151mph redlining 4th at 7200. This is how i ran my engine when it was NA/Spray, but those figures are in a perfect world of course. Realistically im probably going to be bouncing off the limiter somewhere in the 140s in 4th across the traps with this turbo setup. Which isnt where i want to be.
Now that i remembered those figures, i kinda would like to be able to spin the engine to 7800rpm
You'll need different intake, more spring pressure on the seat and ideally, a solid roller setup which just cost you more than a rear end swap. Spinning that many RPMs is harder on everything as well. Being a manual, you'll already be spool challenged which added to a big cam and intake will make you lazy down low. You are much better off with a smallish (torquey) cam and a closer ratio gear.
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Surely if you can do the work yourself, an 8.8 IRS shouldnt cost that much to fit ? Or a Viper diff ? Although Ive no idea how much they cost.
Getting 7k or a little higher is perfectly doable. trying to get a reliable 7800rpm is going to cost a lot more though.
8.8" on a 3.27 will easily allow you 150mph, at under 7krpm on a 28" tyre.
Or Ive trapped 149.4mph on 26" tyre, 3.55 rear at around 7000rpm. Annoying to get so close lol.
Although I'm now using a 3.27. Ive just never had much chance to go racing properly.
Getting 7k or a little higher is perfectly doable. trying to get a reliable 7800rpm is going to cost a lot more though.
8.8" on a 3.27 will easily allow you 150mph, at under 7krpm on a 28" tyre.
Or Ive trapped 149.4mph on 26" tyre, 3.55 rear at around 7000rpm. Annoying to get so close lol.
Although I'm now using a 3.27. Ive just never had much chance to go racing properly.
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Unfortunately, it's not as easy as just swapping a cam and raising the limiter on hptuners.
Besides the bottom end needed to withstand revolutions, the top-end and the components used (I.E. expensive) is what will carry the power to reach your target rpm goal of 7800rpms.
Not only would you need an intake that will carry enough cfm and not to mention the added cfm with the turbo, you need a matched head with enough lift flow to keep the motor happy at that rpm range, a cam with enough ground into it so you can exploit the heads and make it all work.
If you want to make it work effectively, imo, a simple cam is not going to work. You need all of those components and balanced well to make it work well.
I know this is probably not what you want to hear but even at $2500.00 for a rear end, it will still be cheaper right now.
...but if you want to go ahead with a cam RIGHT NOW, then you might want to start with what heads you're running, what flow numbers are they hitting up top, what valves you have and what you can upgrade to (intake will nose dive at certain cfm, have a look at that as well) and maybe talk to someone like patrick g on here and see what he might have to say.
Personally, I would look into getting a 3.23 in there and see where that gets you.
G/L
Besides the bottom end needed to withstand revolutions, the top-end and the components used (I.E. expensive) is what will carry the power to reach your target rpm goal of 7800rpms.
Not only would you need an intake that will carry enough cfm and not to mention the added cfm with the turbo, you need a matched head with enough lift flow to keep the motor happy at that rpm range, a cam with enough ground into it so you can exploit the heads and make it all work.
If you want to make it work effectively, imo, a simple cam is not going to work. You need all of those components and balanced well to make it work well.
I know this is probably not what you want to hear but even at $2500.00 for a rear end, it will still be cheaper right now.
...but if you want to go ahead with a cam RIGHT NOW, then you might want to start with what heads you're running, what flow numbers are they hitting up top, what valves you have and what you can upgrade to (intake will nose dive at certain cfm, have a look at that as well) and maybe talk to someone like patrick g on here and see what he might have to say.
Personally, I would look into getting a 3.23 in there and see where that gets you.
G/L
You gotta pay to play..... Turbos like load.... and 3:90 won't load it up very much. Plus that high RPM will seriously tax your motor even with rod bolts. Your stock style intake will choke it as well....
Save up and bite the bullet.... get Sambergs 8.8" IRS setup. You will keep the turbo in its powerband longer and do less shifts. Mike aka LS1-FD is running a 3:55 gear and it works out perfectly. A 3.27 gear may even be better. The swap is about $3K all said and done. It isn't cheap.
Save up and bite the bullet.... get Sambergs 8.8" IRS setup. You will keep the turbo in its powerband longer and do less shifts. Mike aka LS1-FD is running a 3:55 gear and it works out perfectly. A 3.27 gear may even be better. The swap is about $3K all said and done. It isn't cheap.
How about just replacing the final/gears themselves? Are they available? What rear are you running anyways?
gnx7 is right, you need to load the turbo's and blow through them with a short final.
G/L
gnx7 is right, you need to load the turbo's and blow through them with a short final.
G/L
damn, thanks guys for schooling me! I really didnt know or think that much was involved to spin the few extra RPMs.
Personally im against the cobra IRS, ive seen enough of those things hand grenade at the track. Of course, my Rx7 IRS isnt going to be any better. On the bright side, i have very expensive components in the rear end currently. Which sells out of course for a few dollars to help offset the costs of a different setup. I will most likely do a 9" swap and never look back.
Oh, and buy a TR224 on a 114 Lsa
Personally im against the cobra IRS, ive seen enough of those things hand grenade at the track. Of course, my Rx7 IRS isnt going to be any better. On the bright side, i have very expensive components in the rear end currently. Which sells out of course for a few dollars to help offset the costs of a different setup. I will most likely do a 9" swap and never look back.
Oh, and buy a TR224 on a 114 Lsa
only gears avail for the Rx7 rears are 3.90, 4.10 and i think a company makes a 4.30 and a 4.44 Which all are useless.
damn, thanks guys for schooling me! I really didnt know or think that much was involved to spin the few extra RPMs.
Personally im against the cobra IRS, ive seen enough of those things hand grenade at the track. Of course, my Rx7 IRS isnt going to be any better. On the bright side, i have very expensive components in the rear end currently. Which sells out of course for a few dollars to help offset the costs of a different setup. I will most likely do a 9" swap and never look back.
Oh, and buy a TR224 on a 114 Lsa
Personally im against the cobra IRS, ive seen enough of those things hand grenade at the track. Of course, my Rx7 IRS isnt going to be any better. On the bright side, i have very expensive components in the rear end currently. Which sells out of course for a few dollars to help offset the costs of a different setup. I will most likely do a 9" swap and never look back.
Oh, and buy a TR224 on a 114 Lsa
