Why no Kenne Bells?
06-25-2010, 02:59 PM
#1
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Why no Kenne Bells? Hello I'm hoping to have my build done this Saturday, its a forged bottom end ls1 with a kenne bell blower up top. I've been looking around (maybe not in the right places) but, I have noticed no one is running these on their vettes. Just wondering why? Any issues etc etc I should be worrying about or what the deal is. Just wondering what is going on with these set ups and if I should've spent my money on some other set up.
Thanks
Thanks
06-25-2010, 04:52 PM
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I think the kenne bell twin screw would be a better choice of a blower.
It gives the low end boost like a roots.....
Has close to the high end boost and a centri....
And has a internal compression ratio and thus a high adiabatic efficient.
But, im talking out of my ***.
It gives the low end boost like a roots.....
Has close to the high end boost and a centri....
And has a internal compression ratio and thus a high adiabatic efficient.
But, im talking out of my ***.
06-25-2010, 05:15 PM
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Yeah I'm definitely hoping it was a smart buy. There has to be something because they are also cheaper than prochargers. Hopefully it's all good.
06-26-2010, 07:48 AM
#9
Uuuum they do have a bypass valve, unless you are just saying that the Maggies have a different design of one.
Kenne Bell and Whipple are pretty much your top of the line positive displacement type blower, then comes Maggies with their TVS followed by all the other TVS blowers, then the regular Eaton based roots blowers.
Hey OP what size KB blower did you go with? 1.7, 2.1, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8???
06-26-2010, 10:29 AM
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I was hoping the vette guys could replicate the success the Ford guys have had with them. There wasn't a lot of a room to make the intake large enough on the c5s. I think it starved them of air in the upper rpms.
^ looks like a pretty tight area.
I was told by two people that used to run a KB on their c5s that they would generate extremely high IATs very fast. 180+ at the end of the 1/4.
This is a pic the maker posted of his KB kit on a c6:
^ looks like a pretty tight area.
I was told by two people that used to run a KB on their c5s that they would generate extremely high IATs very fast. 180+ at the end of the 1/4.
This is a pic the maker posted of his KB kit on a c6:
06-26-2010, 06:13 PM
#13
I'm interested in this as well, I just picked up a KB Big Bore 2.8h I'm gonna put on my LS1 in my truck. I'm interested in seeing what kind of power it will make. Planing on the 15-18 psi range with a race pulley and about 12 for everyday driving. 
06-26-2010, 06:49 PM
#14
I have tuned many of them; they are heat pumps. You don't even need to run them down the track to get those 180deg IATs; just drive them normally down the road.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
06-26-2010, 09:49 PM
#15
I have tuned many of them; they are heat pumps. You don't even need to run them down the track to get those 180deg IATs; just drive them normally down the road.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
06-26-2010, 10:58 PM
#16
I have tuned many of them; they are heat pumps. You don't even need to run them down the track to get those 180deg IATs; just drive them normally down the road.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
Then, you contact the seller/manufacturer to find out why it runs so hot that you can't make much with it. At first they will tell you that your heat exchanger's coolant pump must not be running. Then you will be told that it is unusual. After that, you get nothing.
When you first get in and first hit it, it feels good. Then, after 5 minutes of driving and your IATs have reached 180-190degF and you are down like 7-9 degrees of timing, it's not so great anymore. Most of your spark tuning happens in the IAT table.
Direct port methanol would help, but don't know how much.
06-26-2010, 11:08 PM
#17
I don't work on Mustang so I honestly don't know.
There is conflicting info in this thread related to the bypass; my understanding is that the blower is always compressing. I tend to believe that this is the case, because they get hot just babying them around. The cars were all 100% ready for tuning when I got them; I didn't install the systems.
A local guy that is also a friend is bringing his by the shop setup with a pre-blower meth kit that Mightymouse put on very soon. If I am reminded, I'll let you know if it helps going pre-blower. I have doubts but I also have hopes
There is conflicting info in this thread related to the bypass; my understanding is that the blower is always compressing. I tend to believe that this is the case, because they get hot just babying them around. The cars were all 100% ready for tuning when I got them; I didn't install the systems.
A local guy that is also a friend is bringing his by the shop setup with a pre-blower meth kit that Mightymouse put on very soon. If I am reminded, I'll let you know if it helps going pre-blower. I have doubts but I also have hopes
06-26-2010, 11:42 PM
#18
I don't work on Mustang so I honestly don't know.
There is conflicting info in this thread related to the bypass; my understanding is that the blower is always compressing. I tend to believe that this is the case, because they get hot just babying them around. The cars were all 100% ready for tuning when I got them; I didn't install the systems.
A local guy that is also a friend is bringing his by the shop setup with a pre-blower meth kit that Mightymouse put on very soon. If I am reminded, I'll let you know if it helps going pre-blower. I have doubts but I also have hopes
There is conflicting info in this thread related to the bypass; my understanding is that the blower is always compressing. I tend to believe that this is the case, because they get hot just babying them around. The cars were all 100% ready for tuning when I got them; I didn't install the systems.
A local guy that is also a friend is bringing his by the shop setup with a pre-blower meth kit that Mightymouse put on very soon. If I am reminded, I'll let you know if it helps going pre-blower. I have doubts but I also have hopes
06-27-2010, 10:58 AM
#19
The whipple kits for sandrails look to have a much taller intake and intercooler assem. Granted you'd have to chop the hell out of a lot to make one fit but if given the choice between under the hood and 5lbs of boost or out of the hood and 15 lbs of boost, I'd take the later. I noticed on JB's site yesterday, that they now have liquid cooled blower housings. Maybe that'll be the magic upgrade that makes all these older vette kits usable.