turbo spark pulug and gap
01-10-2013, 05:34 PM
#42
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If you look at the cylinder head it has a flat plane just passed the taper portion of the seat. Taper seat plugs are ~0.706" reach 14mm thread plugs. The gasket seat plugs I use are 0.750" reach 14mm thread plugs. The extra reach takes into account the countersink of the taper vs the non-countersink of the gasket. Once compressed the plugs protrusion is the same. All of the stock cylinder heads I have seen have that flat pad. I highly recommend the gasket on power adder cars for proper plug seal. I've seen anti-seize sprayed out around the plug on taper seat plugs on some nitrous cars and boosted cars and the gasket plug prevents this and keeps that valuable cylinder pressure in the cylinder.
01-10-2013, 06:45 PM
#43
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If you look at the cylinder head it has a flat plane just passed the taper portion of the seat. Taper seat plugs are ~0.706" reach 14mm thread plugs. The gasket seat plugs I use are 0.750" reach 14mm thread plugs. The extra reach takes into account the countersink of the taper vs the non-countersink of the gasket. Once compressed the plugs protrusion is the same. All of the stock cylinder heads I have seen have that flat pad. I highly recommend the gasket on power adder cars for proper plug seal. I've seen anti-seize sprayed out around the plug on taper seat plugs on some nitrous cars and boosted cars and the gasket plug prevents this and keeps that valuable cylinder pressure in the cylinder.
02-11-2013, 10:09 PM
#46
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I would use a heat range 7 personally. The BR7 is non-projected and taper seat though and not my choice in that setup. I would look into a NGK BKR7E-11 (5791). This is a projected tip gasket seat plug.
If you look at the cylinder head it has a flat plane just passed the taper portion of the seat. Taper seat plugs are ~0.706" reach 14mm thread plugs. The gasket seat plugs I use are 0.750" reach 14mm thread plugs. The extra reach takes into account the countersink of the taper vs the non-countersink of the gasket. Once compressed the plugs protrusion is the same. All of the stock cylinder heads I have seen have that flat pad. I highly recommend the gasket on power adder cars for proper plug seal. I've seen anti-seize sprayed out around the plug on taper seat plugs on some nitrous cars and boosted cars and the gasket plug prevents this and keeps that valuable cylinder pressure in the cylinder.
If you look at the cylinder head it has a flat plane just passed the taper portion of the seat. Taper seat plugs are ~0.706" reach 14mm thread plugs. The gasket seat plugs I use are 0.750" reach 14mm thread plugs. The extra reach takes into account the countersink of the taper vs the non-countersink of the gasket. Once compressed the plugs protrusion is the same. All of the stock cylinder heads I have seen have that flat pad. I highly recommend the gasket on power adder cars for proper plug seal. I've seen anti-seize sprayed out around the plug on taper seat plugs on some nitrous cars and boosted cars and the gasket plug prevents this and keeps that valuable cylinder pressure in the cylinder.
02-11-2013, 10:25 PM
#47
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I thought I was running a pretty good plug but since you guys are suggesting. Suggest for me. I just want to make sure.
5.3 Twin 70's, NO INTERCOOLER, E85, stock engine, stock heads (862) 15-20lbs of boost, timing 14 degrees at full boost. Daily driven.
5.3 Twin 70's, NO INTERCOOLER, E85, stock engine, stock heads (862) 15-20lbs of boost, timing 14 degrees at full boost. Daily driven.
05-21-2013, 09:09 PM
#50
The AEM EMS specifically says DO NOT run a non-resisted plug. Also read about several MS setups that have has issues with non-resisted plugs.
br7ef is the coldest resistor taper plug U can buy for the LS series engine that I'm aware of. (unless you go iridium) Also its what 99% of the guys I talk to run. Even a few running up to 900hp.
Unless you have heat showing down into the second thread or past 3/4 or so of the ground strap I would just stick with a BR7EF.
Thanks for that info though Martin. Its good to know that people aren't having issues with RF on the colder plugs. Have you had experience with and AEM EMS setups? And running a gasketed plug on a tapered head is interesting as well. I've never heard of that. I just changed my plugs and noticed a bit of antiseize blasted out past the taper of one of the plugs. Not sure if that one was torqued properly however. They are now so time will tell.
E85 does not need a hotter plug. If anything you can get away with a colder range because e85 will not foul the plugs. I've ran up to a 10 heat range on my daily driver with very little fouling. I now run a 9 year round. To my knowledge the only reason to run a "hot" plug is to prevent it from fouling out. You don't really have to worry about that with alcohol based fuels.
br7ef is the coldest resistor taper plug U can buy for the LS series engine that I'm aware of. (unless you go iridium) Also its what 99% of the guys I talk to run. Even a few running up to 900hp.
Unless you have heat showing down into the second thread or past 3/4 or so of the ground strap I would just stick with a BR7EF.
Thanks for that info though Martin. Its good to know that people aren't having issues with RF on the colder plugs. Have you had experience with and AEM EMS setups? And running a gasketed plug on a tapered head is interesting as well. I've never heard of that. I just changed my plugs and noticed a bit of antiseize blasted out past the taper of one of the plugs. Not sure if that one was torqued properly however. They are now so time will tell.
E85 does not need a hotter plug. If anything you can get away with a colder range because e85 will not foul the plugs. I've ran up to a 10 heat range on my daily driver with very little fouling. I now run a 9 year round. To my knowledge the only reason to run a "hot" plug is to prevent it from fouling out. You don't really have to worry about that with alcohol based fuels.
10-21-2014, 08:56 PM
#51
The Br7ef does not have the gasket and the 3910 autolites I took out that Kurt put in, do. I am going to get the ngk bkr7e-11 (5791) but what gap for 15-20 psi? .28?
10-22-2014, 11:01 AM
#53
Different engines all make different amounts of power at different boost levels.
Say a 5.3 is running 20psi and makes 750rwhp, but we have a 408 running 20psi making 1000rwhp. They will not require the same plug due to differences in cylinder pressure.
We seem to run a lot colder plugs than most in our cars and our customers cars, but we never seem to have issues with driving manners or start up due to cold plugs.
On your engine 15-20psi will most likely produce a large amount of power. I'd personally have no hotter than a 8 heat range plug in it and if it were my car it would have a 9 heat range plug in it.
5671A-8 is a NGK gasket seat non projected tip 8 heat range plug
5671A-9 is a NGK gasket seat non projected tip 9 heat range plug
As far as gap, on 15-20psi on your engine I'd run .022.
10-30-2014, 01:47 PM
#56
I did my own research after getting recommendations all over the map on this.
I ended up with NGK R5724-8
This is a projected tip, taper seat, non-resistor plug.
I'm on E85, 15 psi, .030" gap.
Running the stock high resistance wites. Approx 800 ohm. GM electronics.
I've seen no issues with RF interference.
I tried the ever popular BR7 plugs, but my data log showed the car went rich at idle and part throttle, so out they came.
I was running the TR6, but close inspection under the microscope showed the electrodes eroding very quickly, so I deemed them too hot. My car gets raced a lot.
Anyway, these are my experiences thus far.
Ron
I ended up with NGK R5724-8
This is a projected tip, taper seat, non-resistor plug.
I'm on E85, 15 psi, .030" gap.
Running the stock high resistance wites. Approx 800 ohm. GM electronics.
I've seen no issues with RF interference.
I tried the ever popular BR7 plugs, but my data log showed the car went rich at idle and part throttle, so out they came.
I was running the TR6, but close inspection under the microscope showed the electrodes eroding very quickly, so I deemed them too hot. My car gets raced a lot.
Anyway, these are my experiences thus far.
Ron
10-30-2014, 02:03 PM
#57
I did my own research after getting recommendations all over the map on this.
I ended up with NGK R5724-8
This is a projected tip, taper seat, non-resistor plug.
I'm on E85, 15 psi, .030" gap.
Running the stock high resistance wites. Approx 800 ohm. GM electronics.
I've seen no issues with RF interference.
I tried the ever popular BR7 plugs, but my data log showed the car went rich at idle and part throttle, so out they came.
I was running the TR6, but close inspection under the microscope showed the electrodes eroding very quickly, so I deemed them too hot. My car gets raced a lot.
Anyway, these are my experiences thus far.
Ron
I ended up with NGK R5724-8
This is a projected tip, taper seat, non-resistor plug.
I'm on E85, 15 psi, .030" gap.
Running the stock high resistance wites. Approx 800 ohm. GM electronics.
I've seen no issues with RF interference.
I tried the ever popular BR7 plugs, but my data log showed the car went rich at idle and part throttle, so out they came.
I was running the TR6, but close inspection under the microscope showed the electrodes eroding very quickly, so I deemed them too hot. My car gets raced a lot.
Anyway, these are my experiences thus far.
Ron
I know stock48 and a few other "big names" use the projected tip plugs with big boost as well. (he uses tr6) Where is the heat mark on the strap of your plug? I tried non resisted plugs and they cause problems with my megasquirt unit. (using factory wires/coils as well) I don't see how the TR6 doesn't turn into a giant glow plug on stock48's cars.
I just can't bring myself to hang a projected tip plug out in the CC on a boosted car! I run the Br7's now. I have a clean idle and throttle "tip in". Even the BR7 is hotter than I'd like to use. At 24+lbs the heat mark is past the mid point on the ground strap.
10-30-2014, 10:18 PM
#58
I didn't retune for the BR7. I'm sure it would have tweaked in fine.
I wanted a projected tip plug.
That said, the plug i'm using doesn't project near as much as the TR6.
The heat mark seems to be about half way to the bend. But then I didn't follow the rule of cut clean and check after a run.
These plugs also feature the cut back electrode which I like.
Bummer your mega squirt doesn't play well with non resistor plugs. They could have done a better shielding and bypassing job.
My pcm is inside the car as well, I imagine that helps.
Anyway, the current plugs have more time/passes than the TR6 did, and show no signs of distress.
I wanted a projected tip plug.
That said, the plug i'm using doesn't project near as much as the TR6.
The heat mark seems to be about half way to the bend. But then I didn't follow the rule of cut clean and check after a run.
These plugs also feature the cut back electrode which I like.
Bummer your mega squirt doesn't play well with non resistor plugs. They could have done a better shielding and bypassing job.
My pcm is inside the car as well, I imagine that helps.
Anyway, the current plugs have more time/passes than the TR6 did, and show no signs of distress.
10-31-2014, 06:49 AM
#60
I ask anyone to give a reason to run a tr6 plug over a 7-8 heat range plug on a forced induction car. I always say start cold and work your way back down to a hotter plug. What some don't realize some setups I've done require a 7 plug NA.
It's all going to depend on compression (dynamic and static), boost levels, charge temp and fuel being used to determine plug choice but 9/10 times all of the 500-700hp cars end up with a 7-8 plug to keep the heat range happy. Anyone that can properly read plugs can tell if a plug is too cold or too hot. As power and cylinder pressure goes up naturally so does heat which will require colder plugs. Plugs aren't expensive so I ask why take the risk of detonation with a hot plug in your power adder car?
It's all going to depend on compression (dynamic and static), boost levels, charge temp and fuel being used to determine plug choice but 9/10 times all of the 500-700hp cars end up with a 7-8 plug to keep the heat range happy. Anyone that can properly read plugs can tell if a plug is too cold or too hot. As power and cylinder pressure goes up naturally so does heat which will require colder plugs. Plugs aren't expensive so I ask why take the risk of detonation with a hot plug in your power adder car?
^^ James says it all....READ your plugs, your engine is talking to you.