Procharger newbie: (HKE 408 iron block) please help me w/my setup! Lots of ?s inside!
07-19-2010, 02:48 PM
#21
07-19-2010, 02:58 PM
#22
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The F-1D? I've heard about that once or twice. Are you sure he didn't say F-1C? An F-1D isn't even on the list on Prochargers website, but maybe they're releasing it soon? I know the F-1D was mentioned in GMHTP way back in '09, but I don't know much else about its release. What I do know about the F-1D itself is that it's essentially the same as an F-1A with the only difference being a modified impeller that gives more mid range torque (but less top end) than an F-1A. From what I saw it also has the same gear ratio and casing size as an F-1A. From what I also know the power curve peaks at 2500 rpms, but I don't really know anything for sure
07-19-2010, 10:11 PM
#23
F1A's or C's or R's or noisy for a street car. Unless it is more race than street you may not like it. If you ever had a gear drive on a older SBC Gen I you can relate, the noise tends to get annoying daily driving - best analogy I can come up with comparing to a regular street driven F1 Procharged F-Body. Something to think about. Sounds really cool at first, but then wears on you. If it is a weekend warrior/strip car it may be a different story. Coming home at midnight or later regularly will quickly **** off your neighbors. 
IMO, a D1SC makes plenty of power (more than can be used on the street out of the hole with a suspension and good tires) and is nice and quiet. If you can't run a 9.50 in a FULL weight car with a F1A something is terribly wrong. A D1SC on a well built 402/3/8 will go high 9's easily.
If you don't want to run 9.50's or better why buy one? And 9 anything in the 1/4 requires a certified roll cage, driver's lisence , a TH400 or 4L80E (for longevity), and of course a 9" or good 12 bolt. If you step on the F1A to take real advantage of it you will more than likely run into belt slip issues, not to mention the air intake restrictions in a F-Body chassis that choke them killing their efficiency. You can custom fab an air intake and move the radiator and AC condensor (or eliminate it) to get the right hat in there, but it is a pain as there really isn't a good one out there without sacrificing some other stuff, unless it is FMIC. With an SDCE set up or Aster's deal you can be assured the D1SC will not slip the belt, even maxxed. A 7.250"/3.400" will work well to 7000RPM, more than you need to spin a 408 on the street with a Procharger.
F1A = race car supercharger with mid to low 9 sec power (or a good choice if you are racing dynos). IMO the crossing of the line from street to race.
D1SC = 9 sec. street car supercharger (nice and quiet, almost stealthy), easy bolt on without getting carried away with other mods.
My D1SC made 15-16 psi in cold air and 13 psi in warm air on the LS2 403. In colder air it would run 9.70's @140 mph with a totally driveable (daily) driveline and it went 10.0's in 85 degree summer night weather @ 3810 pounds with a 4L60/PY3400 Yank and 3.70's not pressing the timing issue. Fast enough to get asked to leave the track.
My D1SC race car that weighs 3400 goes 9.40's in the 85 degree heat with the D1SC maxxed at 7.250"/3.400" and 9.20's in the colder air.
My big thing with the F1A was the noise, fitment, air intake and belt slip issues. I would not consider anything but a FMIC with one for sure. With my street car I ran the twin 4.5" coolers for packaging and managed the IAT's with a healthy shot of methanol, worked very well. If I did it again I would only do a FMIC, but they look like crap on Camaro's in my opinion with the grill cut out. Firebirds, Firehawks, and T/A are a different story.
One thing to prepare for with Procharging your street car is being ready to spend a fair amount of money in other modifications to support the power and also to be aware you will need a highly modified and customized system to finally get to a reliable, enjoyable set up. I had to modify almost every aspect of my system (belt tensioner, BOV, Air Intake-filter, plenum, fans/fan shroud, etc.) to get it to work correctly, this was all outside of the upgraded 8 rib D1SC "race" system and it still needed some cooling system work to be able to run the AC in the summer months, contrary to what many say.
My .02.
IMO, a D1SC makes plenty of power (more than can be used on the street out of the hole with a suspension and good tires) and is nice and quiet. If you can't run a 9.50 in a FULL weight car with a F1A something is terribly wrong. A D1SC on a well built 402/3/8 will go high 9's easily.
If you don't want to run 9.50's or better why buy one? And 9 anything in the 1/4 requires a certified roll cage, driver's lisence , a TH400 or 4L80E (for longevity), and of course a 9" or good 12 bolt. If you step on the F1A to take real advantage of it you will more than likely run into belt slip issues, not to mention the air intake restrictions in a F-Body chassis that choke them killing their efficiency. You can custom fab an air intake and move the radiator and AC condensor (or eliminate it) to get the right hat in there, but it is a pain as there really isn't a good one out there without sacrificing some other stuff, unless it is FMIC. With an SDCE set up or Aster's deal you can be assured the D1SC will not slip the belt, even maxxed. A 7.250"/3.400" will work well to 7000RPM, more than you need to spin a 408 on the street with a Procharger.
F1A = race car supercharger with mid to low 9 sec power (or a good choice if you are racing dynos). IMO the crossing of the line from street to race.
D1SC = 9 sec. street car supercharger (nice and quiet, almost stealthy), easy bolt on without getting carried away with other mods.
My D1SC made 15-16 psi in cold air and 13 psi in warm air on the LS2 403. In colder air it would run 9.70's @140 mph with a totally driveable (daily) driveline and it went 10.0's in 85 degree summer night weather @ 3810 pounds with a 4L60/PY3400 Yank and 3.70's not pressing the timing issue. Fast enough to get asked to leave the track.
My D1SC race car that weighs 3400 goes 9.40's in the 85 degree heat with the D1SC maxxed at 7.250"/3.400" and 9.20's in the colder air.
My big thing with the F1A was the noise, fitment, air intake and belt slip issues. I would not consider anything but a FMIC with one for sure. With my street car I ran the twin 4.5" coolers for packaging and managed the IAT's with a healthy shot of methanol, worked very well. If I did it again I would only do a FMIC, but they look like crap on Camaro's in my opinion with the grill cut out. Firebirds, Firehawks, and T/A are a different story.
One thing to prepare for with Procharging your street car is being ready to spend a fair amount of money in other modifications to support the power and also to be aware you will need a highly modified and customized system to finally get to a reliable, enjoyable set up. I had to modify almost every aspect of my system (belt tensioner, BOV, Air Intake-filter, plenum, fans/fan shroud, etc.) to get it to work correctly, this was all outside of the upgraded 8 rib D1SC "race" system and it still needed some cooling system work to be able to run the AC in the summer months, contrary to what many say.
My .02.
