vicouSS00

iTrader: (47)

First off I'd like to say I DID do a search for this and found some information but not everything that I was looking for. I am wanting to go with a D1sc procharger setup on my car. However I'm on a pretty tight budget. I have an HKE 408 iron block w/about 15k miles on it, with 11:1 compression. Here is a basic rundown of my current setup:

HKE 408ci iron block (6.0L)
-Wiesco Pistons
-Eagle Rods
-Eagle Crank
-TEA 5.3 stg 1.5 ported/polished heads
-240/244 .605 .610 113+3 lsa cam
-Fast 92 intake
-Fast 92 throttle body
-42# greentop injectors
-Walbro 255
-85 mm z06 maf

I know there are some guys out there with high compression blower setups and I am going to try and go that route. Here are a few questions I have:

-Are the heads I have ok to use for a procharger setup? Should I try selling these and going with maybe some 6.0 heads to lower the compression a little bit?

-If I did go with 6.0 heads, what would my compression then be?

-Do I need to change the cam? If so what cam?

-Should I sell the fast 92/92 setup and go w/maybe an ls6 intake/tb setup to try and save a bit of money? I know I could pocket around $500 if I swapped somebody intake & tb which could come in handy along the way.

-I know I need to go w/bigger injectors..what size? 60#? bigger?

-Should I go with a bigger fuel pump or run dual 255's?

-What spark plugs will I need to run?

-Should I run a meth kit?

-How many #'s of boost would I be able to "safely" boost this motor at the current compression?

-What kind of power could I expect to make w/this setup? My goal is 750 rwhp, is that possible?

-Will I need the maf?

-I've got a triple pillar pod, what guages are a MUST? (boost, wideband, etc..)

-Is there anything else that wouldn't come with a complete D1sc kit that I would need that I haven't mentioned above?

I have a tick stg. 2 t56, a spec 3+ clutch, and a Moser 9" w/3.89's so I think my car is ready for the extra hp. I will also be ordering some MT et streets to help w/traction. Also, my exhaust consists of QTP 1 7/8 headers, kooks ORY-pipe w/a cutout, and an adjustable borla catback. Thanks for any advice/suggestions guys.

Kody-

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

Id sell the heads, and get 317s.11:1 is a bit high for an FI motor, but if you want to use meth you can do 11:1 just fine.

Keep the intake manifold, Ive seen dynos where people switch from ls6 to FAST and actually lose 2psi but gain 20-30hp overall.

60#s should be fine unless you are going to run some crazy boost.

A single walbro will get you to 450ish ok, but Id recommend 2 pumps.

Are the wiseco pistons forged? If so, you can boost it pretty high but it goes back to what compression you are running as well as if you are using meth. Obviously getting the compression down AND adding meth would be optimal.

Power output depends on the above about meth, compression and fuel.

Spark plugs will depend on how much boost you run. I use NGK Tr6s and I think most of us do in the 500whp range. Im looking at getting tr7s when I go for more power. Some people prefer others though.

Im not a cam expert but that cam seems huge lol

The MAF is up to you and your tuner. Some tuners wont do SD tunes some prefer it, Id talk it over with them.

I only run a boost and wideband for gauges now, but I want a fuel pressure gauge also.

An SDCE tensioner is a must for a d1 IMO. I would look into it, its not cheap but its worth it. You get 2-3psi from that alone.

vicouSS00

iTrader: (47)

The pistons are forged, along with the rest of the motor. How much does a meth kit cost? And a SDCE tensioner, how much would that run me?

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

I think meth kits are roughly $500 and the tensioner is about 700.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

I ran 14lbs on my 11:1 motor. With a big NA cam like yours(actually a lot bigger than yours). I have a snow meth kit I bought used off here for like $250...it really helped to keep the IAT's down, which is big time help in keeping the motor happy. On 10lbs of boost with 108 of timing and no meth it made 660. I ended up getting 14lbs of boost and got the timing locked in on 14* and the meth hooked up. It felt like a rocket on the street, but never got a number on it because the blower locked up.

So i'd say a maxed out D1 should make 750, with no hat on the blower and a good flowing exhaust. But I would defiantely get the SDCE tensioner because if not you'll end up tightening the **** out of the belt and ruining the blower...like I did lmao.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I'd skip the ProCharger D-1SC at your engines cubic inch, and go with a ProCharger F-1A. The F-1A won't have to work so hard with the larger cubes, and will make great power.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-D-1SC...F-Body-Kit.htm Here is a link to a system I put together.

What you need for the fuel system is going to depend on how much boost you plan on running and how much horsepower it puts out. Check out the fuel systems on the website of Nasty Performance. 750 rwhp can easily be done with 60lb injectors, 12 to 14 psi of boost and your FAST 92/92.

Like has been posted, if you run methanol injection with your 11.0/1 engine, you'll be just fine. We've done it in the past, it works out really well.

Your cam will work, but our blower cam would be a better choice. You can check it out here. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...n-Camshaft.htm Bob

vicouSS00

iTrader: (47)

Well the reason I wanted to go with a D-1SC kit is I'm looking to pick up a used kit online and I can definetely say I see alot more used D-1SC kits than F-1A kits here on tech. Though if money wasn't an issue I'd definetely go w/an F1-A/F1-R.

How much would it affect to my setup change the heads/cam to some 6.0L/317 heads/your custom blower cam? As far as power difference compression difference? Would it be ideal to just save that money for that I'd spend on the new heads, cam, and installation and put it towards the procharger kit? If I can get away w/my current h/c package I'd like to leave it alone.

What is the max power for a 60lb injector? 80lb injector?

Would a BAP be a must in my setup if I'm running dual walbro's?

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Like we talked about last night. A stock 317 head is about 65-66cc so not much different than what you told me about your current heads so they won't drop your CR any with out opening up the chambers some. And the cam I would leave as it will work fine. If you want to try the 11.0:1 CR you can. I don't like CR that high with your power goals and trying to keep the car reliable etc... But If you could get it down a point by sending your heads back to TEA and have them open the chambers a little it would help with relaiability a lot. Meth is going to help if tuned right. I like the Snow Methanol kits as the controller is real easy to dial in and has never let me down. But I am just trying to give you solid advice about keeping the car reliable. As what most of what these guys are telling you is true as far as working, but none will mention how reliable it will be and I know you drive your car a lot. You could be the guy who's car last for ever or you could be the one who's car makes it a few days after getting it tuned lol! There is just no absolute's with FI, you can only try to do your best to make it safe as possible with some of the options we talked about last night. All of them cost money. But leaving the motor alone and adding a blower will save you money initially, but could come back to bite you in the *** later if by chance something doesn't work out as planned.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

No BAP needed with twin 255's also.

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

317 head has a combustion chamber of about 72cc's

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Not the one's Ive messured! I have a spread sheet of them all that I have measured etc...They all kept in at the 66-67 range. But I'm not an expert at it.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

What about using E-85 to get a safer tune, and throw the meth on there with it?

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

maybe they have been milled, GM says that they are 72 cc's

also you can get afr heads with 76cc combustion chamber to lower the CR even more

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

I would go with Bob's suggestions. If you run the same heads and cam keeping the CR high apply the money towards the F1A and it will work less to make the same power. (you can always swap heads later and make more boost)You need a good fuel system behind it all dual pumps (no BAP needed) 60# will do about 800rwhp 80# will give you room to grow. E85 at this level requires alot of volume and would need a serious fuel system to keep up so not worth the bonus.

00Camary

iTrader: (15)

I have a 408 iron block at 11:1 roughly. I have some afr205 heads that i am planning on selling for some afr 225's with 72cc to lower the compression to roughly 10:1

I am still in the process of doing research obviously and this thread has helped confirm a bit of what i have read. I hope to utilize e85 in opposed to going with a meth kit. Need to do a lot more research on this and its ability to work well for me.

Saw something in here about going with a f1 in opposed to a d1. Can someone expand more on this. Will a d1 really work that hard? what are its limits on boost #'s and longevity of the blower with a 408?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

https://www.brutespeed.com/procharger_model_specs.htm
The chart at the above link may help to clarify things for you. A D-1SC on a 408 is going to have to work pretty hard. I've seen 16 psi out of this combination and 756 rwhp on a Mustang Chassis Dyno. If the D-1SC had been swapped out for an F-1A I know the engine would of made more power at the same boost level, as the D-1SC was out of it's efficiency range. Bob

00Camary

iTrader: (15)

My car na is at 525whp 520tq. Just talked to procharger and they suggested the F-1D due to it being street driven most of the time.

vicouSS00

iTrader: (47)

Thanks for all the input guys, it's helping out a bunch. I went ahead and traded the fast 92/92 for an ls6 intake/tb and some cash. I then bought SVO 80 lb injectors, a Summit fuel rail kit, and a second Walbro 255 pump. JW what else will I need to complete the fuel system? Regulator? Bigger fuel lines? Fittings? I want the fuel system to supply 750-800 hp w/ease.

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

My advice would be either an F-1A or an F-1C. The F-1A would probably be best since it makes great power, not a ton less than the F-1C, and you don't have to modify the radiator or anything else to get the blower to fit into your engine bay.

The reason you shouldn't get a D1SC if you want numbers in the 700+ range is because at the boost levels needed to make that kind of power, the D1SC becomes inefficient. It can get a little dangerous pushing a D1 because at higher PSI levels you have to use a tinier pulley and the tensile strength of the impeller becomes an issue and the impeller can actually expand and hit the casing from being spun so fast. Then you're screwed and will probably upgrade to an F series after that anyways.

F series are only good for high HP applications, keeping them at low boost makes them inefficient, since they weigh more and make the engine have to work more to turn them.

(Thank you 'Trust' for teaching me more about Prochargers than I meant to know )

00Camary

iTrader: (15)

Yeah i was told to go with a F-1D. It is not a track car by any means being a vert.