any advice for supercharging?
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
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any advice for supercharging? I got a 02 formula and i plan on putting a P-1SC-1 supercharger on it. Any one have any input on other things i need to buy to get the most out of it? I'd really appreciate it, I've been in deployed to afghanistan for the last 7 months so im ready to start puttin time into the car i just want to make sure i do it right. I have a set of longtube headers on order, and im in the process of choosing a camshaft. again any help would be nice
https://www.brutespeed.com/prochargers.htm
I have a lot of information at the above link that may help you out. Bob
I have a lot of information at the above link that may help you out. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
LOTS of things. If you're planning on going with stock heads, that's your decision, but that will impact the ultimate HP capacity of your motor. A good P&P would be a good idea, at minimum. A cam is a must, and long-tube headers are pretty much the same...a must.
If you're going to be shoving more air into a motor, you also need to shove more fuel into it. Higher volume/pressure fuel pump(s), heavier injectors, and probably a boost-referenced FPR are in order.
You also might want to look into better cooling system parts (lower temp T-stat, performance radiator, higher flowing fans, etc).
Besides that stuff, you'll need to upgrade your clutch (if you're running stock). With the extra HP, a better clutch is a good idea. The McLeod street twin and Spec (you'd probably be looking at stage 3 or 3+) seem to be popular choices for the higher HP crowd.
Depending on how much RWHP you'll be running, upgrading the driveshaft isn't out of the realm of uncommon, and possibly a rear end upgrade (trash the 10-bolt and go for a 12-bolt or 9").
Suspension upgrades are a good idea to help deliver the extra power. At minimum, a better torque arm is a good idea. Many good suspension parts can be found on here for sale used, and several sponsors have sales regularly.
Of course, everything I've mentioned above isn't necessarily required, but strongly suggested. Otherwise you could be pretty disappointed in either the amount of HP you're making, or the lack of delivering it to the ground.
If you're going to be shoving more air into a motor, you also need to shove more fuel into it. Higher volume/pressure fuel pump(s), heavier injectors, and probably a boost-referenced FPR are in order.
You also might want to look into better cooling system parts (lower temp T-stat, performance radiator, higher flowing fans, etc).
Besides that stuff, you'll need to upgrade your clutch (if you're running stock). With the extra HP, a better clutch is a good idea. The McLeod street twin and Spec (you'd probably be looking at stage 3 or 3+) seem to be popular choices for the higher HP crowd.
Depending on how much RWHP you'll be running, upgrading the driveshaft isn't out of the realm of uncommon, and possibly a rear end upgrade (trash the 10-bolt and go for a 12-bolt or 9").
Suspension upgrades are a good idea to help deliver the extra power. At minimum, a better torque arm is a good idea. Many good suspension parts can be found on here for sale used, and several sponsors have sales regularly.
Of course, everything I've mentioned above isn't necessarily required, but strongly suggested. Otherwise you could be pretty disappointed in either the amount of HP you're making, or the lack of delivering it to the ground.
No problem...One thing you REALLY need to know (and I'm discovering right now) is that boosted setups are NOT cheap. There are TONS of "hidden" costs you don't see when you're first starting to plan a build. My budget for full motor, trans, d/s, rear, S/C kit, and all supporting parts was about 13K. Man was I in for a surprise. I'm just about done buying stuff and I'm sitting right at about $23K. Check out the sticky at the top of this section "the REAL price of forced induction".
I appreciate the fact that you want to do this RIGHT. One thing that REALLY pisses me off is people that want to double the horsepower of their motor, but don't realize the implications of their change in power, and don't do any other upgrades. It's like any other machine...cars have several "systems" and they need to be balanced. If you upgrade one significantly, thay ALL need upgrading if you want to do it right.
I appreciate the fact that you want to do this RIGHT. One thing that REALLY pisses me off is people that want to double the horsepower of their motor, but don't realize the implications of their change in power, and don't do any other upgrades. It's like any other machine...cars have several "systems" and they need to be balanced. If you upgrade one significantly, thay ALL need upgrading if you want to do it right.
It is a bigger expense to step up to the D-1SC, but think about it this way:
Like my original reply to your original post, you will spend a considerable amount of money on supporting parts and upgrades. Most of these upgrades will be more than you really need for a P-1SC, that's just the way it works. So, if you spend all that money for overkill upgrades for a P-1SC and sufficient for a D-1SC, you might as well USE them, make it worth it.
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This might be true, but there is a guy local to me who has a stock bottom end LS1 in a 99 C5 who has a P1sc setup and put down 700whp with a aggressive tune. Detuned to 640 before he left. He did this without meth also. So it is possible to make considerable power with a P1.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info guys. Helped me make the informed decision that i should wait and save up so i can afford the supercharger and the components, or just not deal with the hassle of boosting it. Thanks again im still in the learning phases.
Yeah...but a cam and headwork could have gotten you easily over 600. Shoving air into an otherwise "stock" motor (stock valvetrain) isn't the best idea. The springs aren't exactly set up for that, and the cam isn't NEARLY optimal.
Buy the D1 as resale on the kit will be better than a P1 if you ever go to sell it. Also I would say Cam and headers yes good mods for a Procharger build heads not as inportant. I went 10.50@135mph with stock 241 heads and a stock 3.42 geared 10 bolt with my M6. That was about 13 psi on my forged 347
