Timing....8-10psi
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From: Windsor, Ontario Canada
Timing....8-10psi Okay So i just got my car broke in and we made about 15 or so pulls on 8ish (155kpa). Im around the 11.6-12.1afr range shifting at 6200rpm as of now. I will be spinning to around 6800rpm.
What kind of timing is everyone running on straight 91 octane NO METH. I have mine dialed at 18.5-19 degrees and seeing zero knock.
Do I have more left in it? I know going from 14-19psi made a hell of a difference!
Once I get this dialed in im gonna need new injectors, im seeing 90% duty at 6200rpm!
Jay
Motor combo...
370 (.030 over)
Wiesco Pistons
Compstar rods
Stock Crank
9.0:1 compression
236/236 112.5 cam
Vic jr
Fast 1375cfm throttle body
Stock heads etc
What kind of timing is everyone running on straight 91 octane NO METH. I have mine dialed at 18.5-19 degrees and seeing zero knock.
Do I have more left in it? I know going from 14-19psi made a hell of a difference!
Once I get this dialed in im gonna need new injectors, im seeing 90% duty at 6200rpm!
Jay
Motor combo...
370 (.030 over)
Wiesco Pistons
Compstar rods
Stock Crank
9.0:1 compression
236/236 112.5 cam
Vic jr
Fast 1375cfm throttle body
Stock heads etc
I would like to know as well. I am running 5lbs at WOT and my ARF is 11 and I am running 15 degrees (but when I datalog it, it shows 19) and I still have knock sometimes. Also running meth.
^^^ how much timing you can run depends on allot of things. compression ration, IAT, combustion chamber design...... if 19 degrees of timing works for him, it does not necessarily mean it will work for you
That looks ball-park for that setup.
I probably would have started with 15-16 deg and expected to end up somewhere between 18 and 22 - assuming your intercooled and everything is sized properly (A/R etc...)
I probably would have started with 15-16 deg and expected to end up somewhere between 18 and 22 - assuming your intercooled and everything is sized properly (A/R etc...)
May want to look into what is modifying your timing (ECT, IAT, etc...) to get the timing down to the 15 deg that you are commanding. I wouldn't expect it to ping at 15 deg, but 19 maybe.
Are you sure it isn't false knock?
Thread Starter
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Yea mine is intercooled etc, IATs were showing 42ish and i havnt added meth yet. I dont wanna be like half of my other buddies that cant race or run there car bc they ran outta meth haha. I have the kit hooked up but figure may as well tune it safe and have a meth tune and a pump tune.
Jay
Jay
Not intercooled, on stock compression your timing is going to be pretty low.
May want to look into what is modifying your timing (ECT, IAT, etc...) to get the timing down to the 15 deg that you are commanding. I wouldn't expect it to ping at 15 deg, but 19 maybe.
Are you sure it isn't false knock?
May want to look into what is modifying your timing (ECT, IAT, etc...) to get the timing down to the 15 deg that you are commanding. I wouldn't expect it to ping at 15 deg, but 19 maybe.
Are you sure it isn't false knock?
How would I know if it's false or not?
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Throw some unleaded race gas in. If the knock goes away it is real knock. If the knock doesn't go away it is false knock.
Or, if you are tuning, cut 10 deg from both your timing tables (I'm assuming LT1 edit? so both high and low rpm tables). Same thing - if it goes away it is real.
Or, if you are tuning, cut 10 deg from both your timing tables (I'm assuming LT1 edit? so both high and low rpm tables). Same thing - if it goes away it is real.
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Yea mine is intercooled etc, IATs were showing 42ish and i havnt added meth yet. I dont wanna be like half of my other buddies that cant race or run there car bc they ran outta meth haha. I have the kit hooked up but figure may as well tune it safe and have a meth tune and a pump tune.
Jay
Jay
Also, beware running peak dyno timing on the street. If the dyno was not properly loaded or doesn't have the ability to load it down, you may see detonation on the street. Double check it or listen for it.
Throw some unleaded race gas in. If the knock goes away it is real knock. If the knock doesn't go away it is false knock.
Or, if you are tuning, cut 10 deg from both your timing tables (I'm assuming LT1 edit? so both high and low rpm tables). Same thing - if it goes away it is real.
Or, if you are tuning, cut 10 deg from both your timing tables (I'm assuming LT1 edit? so both high and low rpm tables). Same thing - if it goes away it is real.
So run 5 degrees at the high RPM table? Also I am using TunerPro V5 with winflash
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Windsor, Ontario Canada
Your charge temps are 42*? Are you in Alaska or something? We can't get those thru an A2W full of ice down here at this time of the year.
Also, beware running peak dyno timing on the street. If the dyno was not properly loaded or doesn't have the ability to load it down, you may see detonation on the street. Double check it or listen for it.
Also, beware running peak dyno timing on the street. If the dyno was not properly loaded or doesn't have the ability to load it down, you may see detonation on the street. Double check it or listen for it.
Sorry celcius damn canadians hahah, my efi live is all set that way I havnt changed it. So about 107*F all the way to like 130*F depending on how hot it is outside. The weather here in the summer is usually like 90 and feels like 110 with the damn humidity!
Jay
If it doesn't go away it is false knock. You can either live with it or turn your KR sensors off.
Stock, 10.5 I think. That is probably the difference. Like was mentioned above the MBT can be determined by a lot of variables. And if there is no KR on the scan then theres no issue.
Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Sep 2, 2010 at 09:14 AM.
