LT1 383 Blower Build
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
99.9percenter - Hooker super comps
Tbird31 - Thanks! Looking for about 15lbs of boost and unsure what power level that will put me out. I've seen similar setups throw down ~650rwhp but I think mine may be a bit higher with the better flowing heads and meth. Tough call on your choices. I do love those vipers
Tbird31 - Thanks! Looking for about 15lbs of boost and unsure what power level that will put me out. I've seen similar setups throw down ~650rwhp but I think mine may be a bit higher with the better flowing heads and meth. Tough call on your choices. I do love those vipers
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
And so it begins...
Let me just say I hate piston rings and it will be too soon if I ever have to gap them again. This process took most of the day but nothing to rush here. I will work on this more tomorrow as I took the day off of work to keep playing with it. Everything was within spec and went together fairly well.
Let me just say I hate piston rings and it will be too soon if I ever have to gap them again. This process took most of the day but nothing to rush here. I will work on this more tomorrow as I took the day off of work to keep playing with it. Everything was within spec and went together fairly well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
More pics.
Installed:
ARP head studs
Trick Flow Heads
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets
Cloyes double roller timing set
Blower Cam
EFI Connection 24x cam and crank reluctor
TPIS Timing Cover
Moroso pan - just thrown on for looks/cover the bottom end.
Installed:
ARP head studs
Trick Flow Heads
Cometic MLS Head Gaskets
Cloyes double roller timing set
Blower Cam
EFI Connection 24x cam and crank reluctor
TPIS Timing Cover
Moroso pan - just thrown on for looks/cover the bottom end.
Hey Bro I have had almost an IDENTICAL setup on my TA and the 12 rib procharger bracket will eat **** eventually!! trust me on this one i could never get it right, the procharger tensioner is too weak for the f1 series blowers.. i was making 15 psi and bent the tensioner, so i bought the house of boost cog system and noooo problems..im going single front mount turbo and will sell this HOB COG system for a good price if interested..youve got a hell of a build going on and would hate to see you have problems with ribbed belts..i would go COG either way..BTW i used to rip around town hard with the t56 and cog belt and never broke a belt or had any problems
Hey Bro I have had almost an IDENTICAL setup on my TA and the 12 rib procharger bracket will eat **** eventually!! trust me on this one i could never get it right, the procharger tensioner is too weak for the f1 series blowers.. i was making 15 psi and bent the tensioner, so i bought the house of boost cog system and noooo problems..im going single front mount turbo and will sell this HOB COG system for a good price if interested..youve got a hell of a build going on and would hate to see you have problems with ribbed belts..i would go COG either way..BTW i used to rip around town hard with the t56 and cog belt and never broke a belt or had any problems
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
Hey Bro I have had almost an IDENTICAL setup on my TA and the 12 rib procharger bracket will eat **** eventually!! trust me on this one i could never get it right, the procharger tensioner is too weak for the f1 series blowers.. i was making 15 psi and bent the tensioner, so i bought the house of boost cog system and noooo problems..im going single front mount turbo and will sell this HOB COG system for a good price if interested..youve got a hell of a build going on and would hate to see you have problems with ribbed belts..i would go COG either way..BTW i used to rip around town hard with the t56 and cog belt and never broke a belt or had any problems
Thanks!
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The only thing I feared came true, I had to go with a 12 rib setup due to slippage, but even with the 12 rib it had to be banjo tight or it will still slip. With the spacer, pulley putting the belt out in front of the crank about 5+ inches I did not think this was good for the crank. For this reason I decided to go turbo and when I took the engine apart, sure enough the mains were wearing due to the flex of the crank, Hope you have better luck...
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
How many miles before you went turbo? If I had access to a shop to fabricate a setup, I likely would have gone that route. I know kits are also made but just seems like there is a good deal of work still needed to get everything to work in harmony.
Hopefully with the Dragonslayer crank and extra large crank hub, I will have some better luck. The car will not be a daily driver and with the miles I put on it annually, it should last a good deal of time.
On that note, Christmas was good to me and I got just about everything to button up the engine. I need to measure figure out what pushrod length with the handy trick flow tool. Also need to order oil pan bolts when I order the pushrods.
From there, I can get the engine transferred back onto the now clean k-member and keep working.
Hopefully with the Dragonslayer crank and extra large crank hub, I will have some better luck. The car will not be a daily driver and with the miles I put on it annually, it should last a good deal of time.
On that note, Christmas was good to me and I got just about everything to button up the engine. I need to measure figure out what pushrod length with the handy trick flow tool. Also need to order oil pan bolts when I order the pushrods.
From there, I can get the engine transferred back onto the now clean k-member and keep working.
How many miles before you went turbo? If I had access to a shop to fabricate a setup, I likely would have gone that route. I know kits are also made but just seems like there is a good deal of work still needed to get everything to work in harmony.
Hopefully with the Dragonslayer crank and extra large crank hub, I will have some better luck. The car will not be a daily driver and with the miles I put on it annually, it should last a good deal of time.
On that note, Christmas was good to me and I got just about everything to button up the engine. I need to measure figure out what pushrod length with the handy trick flow tool. Also need to order oil pan bolts when I order the pushrods.
From there, I can get the engine transferred back onto the now clean k-member and keep working.
Hopefully with the Dragonslayer crank and extra large crank hub, I will have some better luck. The car will not be a daily driver and with the miles I put on it annually, it should last a good deal of time.
On that note, Christmas was good to me and I got just about everything to button up the engine. I need to measure figure out what pushrod length with the handy trick flow tool. Also need to order oil pan bolts when I order the pushrods.
From there, I can get the engine transferred back onto the now clean k-member and keep working.
I only had about 5000 miles and yes it is a Nightmare so far, this build is going on 2+ years to complete! The PTS kit I purchased is a POS kit and they ripped me off for a bunch of parts, and the so called Jig made kit literally had to be re-cut and welded just to fit, but that's a whole other story....
dont see how everyone has so many belt problems
I also used the dragonslayer with the BBC snout, and a ATI pulley. With the 10 rib setup i made using 7.8" / 3.12" pulleys on the YSi blower i never had ANY belt slip as long as i had the belt good and tight. I could still turn the belt just over 45* with no problems, it really wasnt THAT tight. I put a couple thousand miles on it that way, and then sold it, and its still going great with the same belt and over 9k miles
I also used the dragonslayer with the BBC snout, and a ATI pulley. With the 10 rib setup i made using 7.8" / 3.12" pulleys on the YSi blower i never had ANY belt slip as long as i had the belt good and tight. I could still turn the belt just over 45* with no problems, it really wasnt THAT tight. I put a couple thousand miles on it that way, and then sold it, and its still going great with the same belt and over 9k miles
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
Moroso Street/Strip Oil Pan
5.5 Quart Capacity
Wet Sump
Depth-7.5 in.
Incl. 20mm Oil Level Sensor Fitting / Windage Screen / Magnt Drain Plug
Black Painted Steel
Features and Benefits
Deep Pump Painted Steel Pan
Kicked Out Sump
Trap-Door Baffling For Improved Oil Control
Clears 4.125 Inch Stroke With Most Steel Rods
Windage Screen
Use Stock Dipstick
Looking forward to putting the double pumper system and 80lb injectors to good use soon! Engine will be back in before months end.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
From: Millstone Twp, NJ
^^ I've seen the vids, sick car and the owner was very nice to talk to on the phone! I doubt mine will run like that but nice to know people are still playing with this engine combination.
They can work fine with t56s as long as you rev match downshifts from high rpm...mine worked great with no sprag pulley.