Motovative Insta-Boost Quick Spool valve
Motovative Insta-Boost Quick Spool valve 
We have these coming out of production pretty quick. T4 and T6 versions both available. We will be having a group purchase for the first 10 of these to get an idea of how well they will sell. You must use these with a divided housing!
Pricing with a group purchase would come in at 399$ for the T4 and 409$ for the T6 versions.
So would there be interest?
Last edited by Motovative; Jan 1, 2011 at 08:15 AM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 448
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where do you find more info?
Any dyno results?
Is there a HP limit on the set up?
Does a divided flange effect peak performance? How is it controlled?
Does it come with everything needed to hook it up?
Sorry I know these questions are annoying, but you know there coming. I would like to see how much HP I can net for $400 in the lower power curve.
Thanks
Any dyno results?
Is there a HP limit on the set up?
Does a divided flange effect peak performance? How is it controlled?
Does it come with everything needed to hook it up?
Sorry I know these questions are annoying, but you know there coming. I would like to see how much HP I can net for $400 in the lower power curve.
Thanks
You can get divided housings for almost every turbo out today. Half of the housing is blocked, and as you come into boost, it will progressively open relative to the boost you are building. Its like haveing an adjustable AR on your housing
We have seen over 100+ ftlb gain in our test car with an 88mm s400 / iron block 370.
Pricing is 20% less than competitors.
It comes exactly as shown, just run a vacuum line to a boost reference.
We have yet to hit a "horsepower limit". That would be a function of your turbo.
We have seen over 100+ ftlb gain in our test car with an 88mm s400 / iron block 370.
Pricing is 20% less than competitors.
It comes exactly as shown, just run a vacuum line to a boost reference.
We have yet to hit a "horsepower limit". That would be a function of your turbo.
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Yup, took a gamble when I saw it. Just glad I knew a good fabricator to install it and get it working 
After having one, I'd still pay $400-500 for one. Big difference in performance. If I installed an air solenoid to hold the valve shut until around 10psi the car would be damn near undrivable. In cool weather I have boost before the gas peddle hits the floor. Track launches are 3300 rpms and 6psi on the 2 step to cut low 1.5 high 1.4's with 2.75 gears with a 3850lb race weight.
Motivate, those look like mild steel based off the rust, mine is stainless and was much cheaper. $400 would be a decent price for stainless.
After having one, I'd still pay $400-500 for one. Big difference in performance. If I installed an air solenoid to hold the valve shut until around 10psi the car would be damn near undrivable. In cool weather I have boost before the gas peddle hits the floor. Track launches are 3300 rpms and 6psi on the 2 step to cut low 1.5 high 1.4's with 2.75 gears with a 3850lb race weight.
Motivate, those look like mild steel based off the rust, mine is stainless and was much cheaper. $400 would be a decent price for stainless.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 65
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I agree with zombie. If the main flange is mild steel, this is a very bad idea. It's not even a cost issue. Exhaust systems condensate internally during cool down and the valve is very near contact with the flange when closed (shut off car cooling down). All you need is for the car to sit for 3 wks while on vacation and rust itself closed. Mild steel is fine for non moving or constantly lubricated parts. For a part that is always moving and is not lubricated, 304 is the minimum grade of material to use, with preference to 316.
I'll tell you from experience in using spool valves in a front mount....you better test them thoroughly and make sure they dont begin to stick or gall up. I've had so many problems I am looking for a smaller exhaust a/r turbo to avoid needing it. I actuate mine with 80 psi of nitrous and a air actuator.
With the TH400 did you change your converter any? I think you could probably tighten up your converter to help with efficiency as you'd be spooling quicker.
ya, when i had the guy build my converter i told him my setup and he said he would make it a little tighter to get a faster spool. it seems to be working well!
They are Nickel Plated mild steel (same weather resistance as stainless). They have bronze wear bushings to prevent gauling, and I think we are the only ones on the market using a fully sealed shaft design.
