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head install with arp 12pt

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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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Default head install with arp 12pt

k the deal is I installed my arp 12pt head stud kit today and did like the instructions said I hand tighten them into the block then after gasket and heads where on I torqued the nuts down to spec in sequence and in three sweeps 22lb on the tops and 80lb on the middle and bottom ones after done I looked at them and some of them stick out of the top of the bolt farther than the other one sticks out pretty far what should I do remove the heads and redo everything?

Last edited by TermnEatr; Jan 24, 2011 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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Sounds like you might have messed up screwing the studs into the block. If you didn't make sure there wasn't any water in the bolt holes it could of felt tight but not seated all the way due to water/thread sealer in the threads.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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What year is the block? You might have a newer block with the older studs..
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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thts wat im thinking
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:00 PM
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Yeah that too..sometimes there can be water in those holes. When my engine is in the car I usually tape a straw to a vacuum and make sure i get all the crap out of the holes.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Snyper
Yeah that too..sometimes there can be water in those holes. When my engine is in the car I usually tape a straw to a vacuum and make sure i get all the crap out of the holes.
The longer bolts are a hell of alot longer than the shorter ones..
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 06:33 AM
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they are the right bolts im sure of that i ordered them based of the head bolts i took out which had the shorter ones in the middle row on both ends. so should i take the heads back off and recheck over everything?
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TermnEatr
I looked at them and some of them stick out of the top of the bolt farther than the other one sticks out pretty far what should I do remove the heads and redo everything?
What is pretty far in inches? Got a pic? We are just guessing if we can't see what the issue is.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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I'll take a pic when I get home tonight
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:48 AM
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http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=CIMG0136.jpg

http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=CIMG0135.jpg

http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=CIMG0138.jpg


http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=CIMG0137.jpg
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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2nd picture looks right, the others look like they are out too far. You might be ok if you take out each stud that is not installed all the way one at a time, clean the threads, remove the water, and then reinstall the stud. They should all end up having about the same thread count above the nut once installed properly.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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so I'm thinkin I should break them all clean them all out and reinstall using the same process. Would I be ok doing this since the motor has yet to be ran? And will the gaskets still be fine since they are new?
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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or should I just break them all and remove them one by one and clean them out so I won't have to remove the head from the gasket?
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Do them all and leave your heads on , I did something similar a while back and just torqued them down 5ft lbs more..
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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ok cool I post an update tonight after I do it
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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well looks like i have to wait to redo everything i have to work outta town till prolly friday. Shouldnt be a problem if it sits till then should it?
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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nah ur good u have to have the wrong bolts for sure. if u re order them get them from speed inc they are the cheapest thunder is out and tx speed cost way to much
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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i dont have the wrong bolts i redid everything today the passenger side all went smooth the fin driver side is bull **** i grinded a old head bolt to use as a tap it threads in easy everytime but when i go to bottom out the studs they wont freaking go there is about 4 to 6 threads more on the drivers side than the passenger side 2 studs stripped already im about to throw this thing in the dumpster
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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It looks like an Iron block to me. Am I correct in thinking that? My brand new iron block straight from GM had a fair amount of powdered surface rust on the last 3-4 threads in nearly every hole. If I put them all in hand tight I would have had the same problem as you. I had already thoroughly cleaned the holes as best I could. What I did is thread them all in hand tight then put an allen on them and tighten them down slowly. Every 1/8th of a turn I back it out a full turn and then tightened back until it stopped then went another 1/8th of a turn. When it finally bottomed out I loosened 1/4 turn and tightened 1/4 turn about 5 times. After that I could thread it all the way in by hand very smoothly. After that process I pulled a stud out and there was a fine dusting of rust on the last 3-4 threads. It looks like the ARP's have a much sharper cut on the threads even though they are the same pitch. Because of that they dig a little deeper into the threads than a stock bolt. It's tiring but when it was all said an done my studs look perfect.
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Old Jan 31, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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What I did is thread them all in hand tight then put an allen on them and tighten them down slowly. Every 1/8th of a turn I back it out a full turn and then tightened back until it stopped then went another 1/8th of a turn.
All you did was use the stud as a thread cleaner. Better to use an actual thread chaser since it has channels for the crud and you will avoid damaging an expensive stud. You can get a set of thread chasers for like $15 if not less. Your technique is good though

Jim
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