98Z28CobraKiller you have Killer setup how much would it cost today?

Do smaller twins cure lag or just limit your top end?

 

Boost gets addictive real quick. No matter if come from turbo or sc

 

Man isn't this the truth... I'm building a 402 and will be maxing out my old D1 in no time.

 

i hope you have deep pockets if you want that all at once starting with none of the parts for the build. Not at all trying to intimidate you or be a dick but there is going to need to be a lot more research done on your part so that you know what youre looking at. Fuel setups alone are gonna cost a pretty penny to run that beast and your going to do that anyway making big power. so a good question for you is, "How much do you have to spend?", then, "What car are you doing it in?", then "What parts do you already have?" and then (not that this matters, depending on your answer to the first question) "How fast do you want to go" or "How much power do you want to make?".

I forgot one "How much of the work can you realisticly do yourself?" because you can go ahead and multiply the cost of all the parts used by 2 and thats going to be AROUND the cost of your project when its all said and done.

There is a lot more to this than just buying a cool engine and a turbo kit/supercharger if you want to go fast you gotta get the right transmission and rear end as well. Thats if you want to go fast and not break stuff fast.

My advice is keep reading and learn from others success and failures. You will spend less in the long run. Above all you will be able to have fun! Good luck!

 

Very true, the max boost I have ever seen out of an engine in the cubic inch range that you have, is 16. This was out of an engine we worked on at the old shop, and that D-1SC was giving us all that is could, we really pushed it. You'd make more power with an F-1A at the upper limit of what the D-1SC can produce. Bob

 

I appreciate the F1 and what it can do, but it's a bit too loud for me. When the D1 reaches the end of it's limits, I will be switching over to a Vortech YSI. My friend's 413 and an F1 sure was gnarly though, not something you wanted to tangle with on the street.

 

You forgot a very important key to going fast....... Suspension. Good stuff isn't cheap!

 

You're right there the devil is in the details.

I am sitting back watching,reading,saving,planning and waiting.

Three things stick out to me:

1) 1970'-'80s cars with their leaf spring rear suspensions seem like they maybe the way to go as far as simplicity's sake.

2)5.3L LS engines keep looking better and better especially as FI engines.

3)I keep hearing about the new stuff blowing up so maybe the TH200-R4,TH350 or TH400 trannys are the way to go.

 

of course

though.. i have noticed that one can find a lot of the basic suspension parts for the fox body stang for a very reasonable price which brings me to my next point..


i think you would be happy with the end result of a fox body stang because:

Pros:
cheap and easy to find
easy to gut and you wont feel bad doing it
comes with the 8.8 rear which can be cheaply rebuilt
its been done on this site about 2397656832385652 times
full front end tubular k-member with a arms can be found for less than 5-600 bucks
other suspension parts can be found extremely cheap on mustang forums and are very common
lots of space under that hood
extremely light (compared to many other choices of vehicles)
end result is a built car done for a 'budget' that will flat out scare you with how fast it can go

Cons:
You will need to learn how to do the motor swap and wiring
You will be replacing a major amount of suspension things
You will not be allowed into a majority of the mustang "cool kids group"/local highschool kids


there are some others but im thinking you can get the idea

a 5.3 is a great idea for this build, look into the 76-78mm turbos for that build as well. All you would NEED to replace initially would be maybe some rod and head bolts along with an ls6 intake (on the motor itself). so this one gets my vote for cheap and easy .. just the way most of us like it.


t350 is light and can be built to be very strong but can get a little pricey
t400 is easy to have built to be strong but weighs a little more than the t350
4l80e will allow you to keep your overdrive but will be heavier than both of the first two because it has another gear in there.

I hope that I'm helping you here. Did you ever answer my initial questions? What are your goals?

 

just in case anyone was wondering the cool kids group comment was because when you pop your hood they arent going to like what they see.. and this is only because you can make some of your money back from these kids. my advice is dont pop the hood. tell em run what ya brung. because MOST people wont be running even 11's that you will see on the streets. obviously you will need the right tires and as mentions before suspension for you to run good numbers.

 

I would like to intially run 11's then low 10's and finally 9.70's.

With a D1-SC or a pair of old school TO3/TO4 GT-35's or Precision Turbo TA-5557's 480-620 RWHP shouldn't be hard even with only 334 CID(5.5L,3.83 bore & 3.622 stroke).

I would like to spend no more than $25-37K over a period of 3-6 years.

 

While I may not pray at the Temple of the Turbo, I would never let my personal beliefs stop someone from finding true happiness at that, or any other automotive temple. When it comes down to it, Roots, Turbo, NO2 , and Centrifugal, are all just sons of their only father, Forced Induction. It's all about finding true happiness in him, no matter what son you follow to get to him. Praised be Boost. Can I get an Amen?

 

Hmm, I remember 'Trust' got his D1SC up to 19 PSI on a 396, I'd consider that in that range. I think he had a 3.1" pulley on it. What size pulley were you guys running?

 

Well since boost is a measure of restriction I would have to say trust had a shitty 396... Or should I say restrictive...

 

Lol that car hauled ***, went high high 9's with a slipping converter IIRC. What about the engine would have made it so restrictive? I'm legitly curious

 

Well you know him and I don't maybe it's your job to diagnose the restriction? He obviously had one pushing that pressure with the rwhp?????

 

Lol I don't know him, just know the car. I believe it pushed 18 PSI and made 808 rwhp through an a4, which sounds about right for a D1SC on that big of a cubed engine

 

I'm not sure what blower pulley we had on it, but we had a one inch larger 8.65 crank pulley made for it. I'm sure we set it up for max impeller speed and we always looked for belt slippage signs on our dyno graphs. This was on an iron block 408 with AFR 225 heads. We had a larger air inlet hat and a larger air filter on it. Bob

 

Damn, I thought you made a new thread. My bad.

 

Maybe you should try reading a thread before posting.. lol