True, but how much more hp would they make not having to turn that huge *** blower. But they have enough trouble putting the power they make now to the ground, probably don't need anymore, anyway.

 

As it is, the limiting factor isn't more power, it's tires/traction, and driver's blacking out from the G-forces being generated.

I wonder how the turbo's would hold up with having nitromethane exhaust being pushed through them. I'm not sure the turbo's would be able to hold up to the extreme temperatures that are generated. Add into the mix when they drop cylinders, and start blowing raw nitro, how would the turbo's react to that?

 

I guess

 

this is the age old question that has no right answer... these might help... good luck man!

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-sc-turbo.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-vs-turbo.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rocharger.html

 

If you're procharged why not (go your max amount of boost) and run the SMRE launch control for track use? 800+RWHP is 800+RWHP no matter how you make it.

http://www.smreperformance.com/launch-controller.html

 

Interesting.......

 

Prochargers service should be enough to deter anyone. I hated my procharger I had. belt slip, wrapped a belt up, ruined a seal, Procharger wouldnt help me fix it, wouldnt sell me a seal. They wanted it sent back to them to rebuild for $$$$$$$$. Bastards.

Besides the noise they make is so annoying.

Ive never had a problem with reiliability with a turbo. And my last setup spooled just as fast as any blower would.

 

The Aster bracket that we sell for the f body's takes care of the belt slippage and noise. You'll still have the blower whine sound but not the marbles bouncing around sound, due to the Aster bracket having a spring loaded tensioner. Bob

 

I just wanted to update this thread since I've been able to try the turbo setup out. The turbo setup is like nothing else running similar boost to my friends old d1sc setup. The turbo setup is a lot of work as you have to make brackets, get different fans, ditch ac (truck manifolds) reroute all sorts of crap and what not. The D1SC makes awesome power and has great potential but like mentioned earlier if you want a clean turbo setup you better have some fab skills and a welder.

The D1SC setup would pretty much destroy tires at any speed below 50 mph. This setup has great throttle response with a "now" type of N/A power that will spin tires in an instant. Compared to my TC76 which is the fastest spooling turbo out there for it's size, it's a total different feel. The turbo setup starts making boost around 2000 rpm on my car and is all in by 3000 rpm in 3rd gear. Now if I'm in 1st gear I start to see boost around 3300 rpm and it's not all in until about 4600 rpm.

This works out great on a car running street tires with out a dedicated drag suspension. As the slower spool in 1st gear actually allows my car to hook up, when it was N/A it would blow the tires off in 1st. I do have 4.11's too btw which will change. The turbo setup pulls harder and harder every gear which feels amazing. Even cruising at 1/3-1/2 throttle I see boost and the torque it makes down low is amazing.

The way a turbo car rolls into the power is awesome, it starts to transfer weight and than you are on the wastegate and it's pulling like a train. In the end they both have pro's and con's. You will be happy with either one, if you like the curve of an N/A motor and just want more power everywhere the procharger rocks with it's linear boost. If you want something that feels like no other power adder out there it definitely goes for the turbo setup.

Check it out if you looks close you can see how I hook in 1st gear on a street tire. The front end picks up and transfers weight before full boost hits allowing some traction. My friends GTO wouldn't hook in 2nd gear with slicks on the street. Not apples to apples but the IRS of a GTO normally hooks up very well.

http://vimeo.com/21867405

 

I would consider dumping the procharger idea, and looking into twin screw SC like kenne Bell. SC's as far as I have seen are cheaper, a twin turbo worth anything will cost major money to buy and have installed. Twin screws make better power quicker than a centrifigul SC, if your looking for major low and mid power. Honestly, I would talk to your local shop as 90 percent of the people who think they know something, have no idea.

 

I agree with what you're saying in theory. I look at all of the 2010 camaros and c6 corvettes with twin screws and I'm jealous. The major difference is they can fit those setups and still have clearance between the top of the supercharger and the cowl, which 4th gens don't have.

Sure, I could space down the k-member an inch, but I'd still have to cut the cowl to get it to fit. Even then, it's the smaller mp112 that's being offered. So then with all that work, you top out at ~550 rwhp if you get everything optimized perfectly. 550rwhp is cake out of a P1SC much less a D1SC. There have been a few guys on here who've made over 750 rwhp with a D1SC on stock cubes.

Also, all that instant low end torque isn't worthwhile on the street unless your running slicks. So the way to be the fastest is to generate just enough horsepower to hit your traction threshold throughout the rpm range. As your speed increases, that traction threshold will increase, which is why having a more gradual increase in power is better than a sudden hit. Power is wasted if you spinning. Why do you think the turbo guys have programmable boost by gear? There's no way to hold 1000 horsepower in the lower gears.

 

I love turbo's and the power and torque they make but my next setup will consist of a F1A Procharger. Traction is key and I love the gradual increase in power the higher the rpm's. It reminds me of having a progressive controller on a nitrous setup. I know you can get a boost controller and boost by gear for a turbo setup but I like the idea of not having to do all kinds of custom fab work and deleting a/c that would be needed to accommodate a turbo. In the end they both are great choices but mine is a Procharger.

 

There are so many options out there to keep AC it isn't funny. Truck manifolds are the popular choice due to the easy install. I have one turbo car and am building another and I wouldn't go to a Procharger unless it could be had at a steal of a price.

 

To me it's like choosing between two hot chicks. I could be wrong though haha. I'm sure there are ways to do it. Never said there wasn't. For me if money was no object I would opt for a turbo build cause I know it would produce crazy torque and hp numbers but I have a thing for a Procharger.

 

As far as cost they are almost a wash.

 

Maybe my setup is optimized for power and sucky for traction, but so much for the theory of progressive power lol. If I roll into the throttle enough to close the bypass in first or second gear at any rpm, traction is non-existant. Even in third gear if I roll into the throttle at 3000 rpm, the boost hits isntantly and if the traction control isn't on, it's all over traction wise.

I LOVE IT.

As for the comment about keeping a/c with a turbo kit, the only one that I found that was worth it was the KYTP setup but I thought I read where you can't have a front sway bar with his kit. I might not be 100% accurate, but keeping the front sway was important for me. I like turning as much as going straight.

 

My experience with procharged cars didn't allow much traction lol. As soon as you hammered it they were up in smoke.

Procharger: Tire spin now
Turbo: Tire spin 1 second later

 

True - but I do think you could do a budget-ish turbo setup and save $2-3K over a new D1SC setup. It probably won't be quite as "bolt on" as a Procharger setup though.

$500 - Hot side plumbing
$600 - "Budget" turbo like a Master Power
$500 - Wastegate & blowoff valve
$200 - Intercooler & plumbing
$300 - Injectors
$200 - Dual fuel pump setup
$300-500 - misc other crap
------
$2600 - 2800

That's if you can stick to a "budget" and not change your setup and "go bigger" on stuff

Here's my turbo setup that keeps the A/C...it can be done, but it costs more.

 

That budget kit will end up costing you quite a bit more after you redo it to what you should have done the first time.

 

So take your numbers and you add $2000 for a used D1, another $500 for an Aster bracket, and $100 for a bypass valve, but subtract $1100 for you hotside setup and turbo and $500 for your wastegate and blowoff valve. So that's +2600 - 1600, so a procharger works out to roughly another grand over the turbo.

Only thing that's missing from that equation is the neccesity to be a good welder, so add in the cost of a welder and welding supplies or to pay someone else to weld up the hotside and I think the cost differential becomes close to a wash.

Trust me, I considered going single turbo like KYTP's kit multiple times over and over.