melling 10296 w/ red spring. What weight oil for turbo?
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melling 10296 w/ red spring. What weight oil for turbo?
just about to finish putting motor together and had a quick question. I have a melling 10296 oil pump and i saw that it came with a blue spring so im guessing it has a red high pressure spring inside. My question is should i run the blue low pressure spring? i have about .002 on all the bearings with clearance. with whichever spring i run what oil weight should i run? i was thinking 10w30 or rotella 15w40 with having a turbo get stuff hot. looking for some guidance really on spring and oil weight, thanks guys
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just about to finish putting motor together and had a quick question. I have a melling 10296 oil pump and i saw that it came with a blue spring so im guessing it has a red high pressure spring inside. My question is should i run the blue low pressure spring? i have about .002 on all the bearings with clearance. with whichever spring i run what oil weight should i run? i was thinking 10w30 or rotella 15w40 with having a turbo get stuff hot. looking for some guidance really on spring and oil weight, thanks guys
I feel like the red spring would be too much. I did quite a bit of searching and found good evidence that the 10296 with the stock pan overfilled .5qt using the blue spring will not suck the pan dry. It will give you the extra volume for clearances and the turbo. The red spring is too much for most people.
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I run the high pressure spring with my high volume pump, engine oil cooler too, but I also run an aftermarket oil pan and my total system oil capacity with the large oil lines, remote oil filter, the 2 quart oil filter and turbo oil is right between 11 to 12 quarts, so I have no issues with oil starvation.
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I also run 20-50. A good 30 to 40 will work too. It really depends on were you drive the car at and how you drive the car. I live in an area that is 100+ during the summer and the road will be up to 200 degrees. Lots of heat. If you live in a much cooler place I would run a 40 or 30.
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the car will be raced in the 1/4 and driven on the street alot. around my area its 95 in summer and 20 in winter. i dont want the pan to get sucked dry thats for sure. not really sure where to go with this want to hear some more opinions before i decided on which spring and oil weight.
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The extra volume is needed for the turbo, oil lines, oil cooler (possibly) and looser tolerances of a built motor. The spring is a relief spring. It decides at what pressure oil will bypass the pump and go back into the pan. By running the stock weight spring you start returning oil to the pan sooner. That keeps it from being starved. That way you get the extra flow you need without the mostly un-needed extra minimum pressure.
That's how it was explained by a tech from Lingenfelter that discussed the melling pumps in depth in a few threads. They work with the pumps a lot and a 10296 with the light spring is what he recommended for just about everything.
That's how it was explained by a tech from Lingenfelter that discussed the melling pumps in depth in a few threads. They work with the pumps a lot and a 10296 with the light spring is what he recommended for just about everything.
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Yeah I have a 4 ft feed line that's -4an and aprox a 1.5 ft -10an return. F body pan and a k&n filter. I put a extra 1/2 quart in. Also iron blocks don't expand as much as aluminum. So alum blocks In high hp stuff store more oil in the block and more prone to suck a pan dry. Or Some thing like that per Kurt urban
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Big pan, high volume, and high pressure spring for loose fit race engines. Oil cooler if its going to be driven hard alot. High volume an important thing for tubo cars. Oil wieght should be judged on your driving conditions, enviroment, running temp of the oil, clearences the engine was built to, and power out put, as well as a hole list of other things.
Sucking the pan dry consernes should not be a factor in deciding what oil to use. If you are woried about running out of oil, then you have a volume issue, and you should be looking into increasing the oil volume, or controling the oil returning to the pan, sutch as windage treys, larger oil pan, polishing the inside of the block so oil flows off it faster, dry sump oil pan, etc.
I never build an engine with the stock volume pump or stock pressure spring in it. But all my engines have loose fiting clearences for other reasons. I know lots of people that run the stock volume pumps with stock and or high pressure springs and they never run out of oil, iron block or aluminum block, and stock pans. Some of them even have high volume pumps and do not have issues.
Sucking the pan dry consernes should not be a factor in deciding what oil to use. If you are woried about running out of oil, then you have a volume issue, and you should be looking into increasing the oil volume, or controling the oil returning to the pan, sutch as windage treys, larger oil pan, polishing the inside of the block so oil flows off it faster, dry sump oil pan, etc.
I never build an engine with the stock volume pump or stock pressure spring in it. But all my engines have loose fiting clearences for other reasons. I know lots of people that run the stock volume pumps with stock and or high pressure springs and they never run out of oil, iron block or aluminum block, and stock pans. Some of them even have high volume pumps and do not have issues.
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