Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Turbo build at Slowhawk Performance

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-22-2011, 12:30 PM
  #61  
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
TheBlackPlague's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Don "slowhawk" picked it out so he knows the specs, its basicly a 3400. I left that up to him and dave @ yank.
Old 03-22-2011, 01:23 PM
  #62  
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
iTrader: (263)
 
408trans_am's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Nice looking build, but why use mild steel on the cold side and not aluminum? Alot of extra un needed weight there and doesn't look like the ends were bead rolled or bead of weld added to the ends under the couplers, without that you might have problems blowing off charge pipes. Maybe they are I just can't tell.
Old 03-22-2011, 04:13 PM
  #63  
Staging Lane
iTrader: (3)
 
ugotsmoked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: san diego, CA
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Lookin good Sam! Now you need to bring that thing back here and whoop on Jamie's brother mustang. His head is getting too big around here thinking he is the fastest thing on the left coast.
Old 03-22-2011, 05:12 PM
  #64  
Staging Lane
iTrader: (5)
 
RCHipps21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Very clean build. I like the idea of keeping the stock radiator and fans. Do you have and pics or measurements of ground clearance on the lower radiator brace? Are you running the factory crank pulley and does the turbo drain going to the front of the pan have decent clearance and work well?
Old 03-22-2011, 08:20 PM
  #65  
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (12)
 
Slowhawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bridgewater,Ma
Posts: 14,865
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

The pipes are rough welded to hold the couplings. Same as we do for a few of our high boost cars that have never blown a pipe off.I like the weld rough so it really bites the silicone and we just use worm clamps.Saves some money.

The ground clearance is as high as stock.The radiator goes forward/stands up more and is raised.He won't have an overheating problem.If it does get warm we can still shroud the front of the car to direct all the air through the radiator.
Old 03-22-2011, 11:00 PM
  #66  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
 
blue00ZZleeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Oceanside CA
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I got something for that soon jose! Sam you and tom need to bring your cars out here this summer some time lol
Old 03-23-2011, 06:13 AM
  #67  
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
TheBlackPlague's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 408trans_am
Nice looking build, but why use mild steel on the cold side and not aluminum? Alot of extra un needed weight there and doesn't look like the ends were bead rolled or bead of weld added to the ends under the couplers, without that you might have problems blowing off charge pipes. Maybe they are I just can't tell.
What don said. Honestly if you weighed the whole 3 pipes that make up the cold side there isn't that much of a weight difference haha.

EDIT: the purpose for running aluminum as opposed to mild steel for cold side, is because of its ability to dissipate large amounts of heat. I haven't seen IAT's of over 110 yet, through all the dyno pulls and highway pulls, so i feel fine with the setup.

Last edited by TheBlackPlague; 03-23-2011 at 07:51 AM.
Old 03-23-2011, 07:46 AM
  #68  
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
TheBlackPlague's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RCHipps21
Very clean build. I like the idea of keeping the stock radiator and fans. Do you have and pics or measurements of ground clearance on the lower radiator brace? Are you running the factory crank pulley and does the turbo drain going to the front of the pan have decent clearance and work well?

Ya i was a little skeptical about the stock radiator & fans, But i listened to Don and ill be damned the thing cools BETTER then it ever has! The outside temp has actually raised since we started the build a good 20 degrees and the car runs a good 20 degrees cooler after the build.

yes I'm running the factory crank pulley

The turbo drain IS in the front of the pan and so far its working great , Ive ran it in the front of the pan for 3 years , and it has plenty of clearance.
Old 03-23-2011, 11:32 AM
  #69  
Staging Lane
iTrader: (5)
 
RCHipps21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by TheBlackPlague
Ya i was a little skeptical about the stock radiator & fans, But i listened to Don and ill be damned the thing cools BETTER then it ever has! The outside temp has actually raised since we started the build a good 20 degrees and the car runs a good 20 degrees cooler after the build.

yes I'm running the factory crank pulley

The turbo drain IS in the front of the pan and so far its working great , Ive ran it in the front of the pan for 3 years , and it has plenty of clearance.
I'm going to be keeping my AC condenser also and seems like a lot of people have cooling issues initially with the griffins and their pusher fans. I think I'm going to attept something like what you have if I can fit my Gt91 in there. Looks like your setup is working very well!
Old 03-23-2011, 02:26 PM
  #70  
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (12)
 
Slowhawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bridgewater,Ma
Posts: 14,865
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by RCHipps21
I'm going to be keeping my AC condenser also and seems like a lot of people have cooling issues initially with the griffins and their pusher fans. I think I'm going to attept something like what you have if I can fit my Gt91 in there. Looks like your setup is working very well!
We've moved the radiator with the condenser and use the stock radiator.You just need the radiator standing up more and make sure you shroud the top/sides so all the air coming from the front goes through the radiator instead of around it.

I stay away from the thicker radiators,hard for the air to get through them.
Old 04-01-2011, 07:30 AM
  #71  
TECH Resident
 
Denali08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Nice work.

Can you zoom out. I wanna see where the turbo support is bolted back to.




Quick Reply: Turbo build at Slowhawk Performance



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:20 PM.