1987 Iroc with a 355 and Vortech Ysi/megasquirt and complete repaint
02-11-2014, 09:44 AM
#181
Launching!
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Just went through the whole build Chris. Funny thing is I remember a lot of this build when my car was getting done beside it! I remember seeing your car down to bare metal and then on the dyno at Pauls and off and on through the years. The 3rd gens were never for me but every time I see yours I think THATS the only way to do a 3rd gen! Copy yours and you will have a beautiful one!!
My cars at Pauls now, building a complete forged bottom end twin 61mm turbos looking for 800rwhp
My cars at Pauls now, building a complete forged bottom end twin 61mm turbos looking for 800rwhp
02-11-2014, 01:19 PM
#184
Launching!
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Haha yea maybe! Whats your car weigh? Either way you're gonna hook and go! My T56 is stock and my rear end is the stock 300zx lol! Ill have to roll on the throttle out of the hole!
02-21-2014, 08:55 AM
#186
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Few more updates...
Sent the megasquirt to a buddy to get a few things looked at. He looked at my MAP sensor that has beginning to read lower and lower. It was actually a bad MAP sensor. Luckily, I have two on my setup(one for baro correction), so we just swappeed those and all is well now. Also, he corrected bad work from where I sent it to symtech lab to get an input for FP installed. They had connected it incorrectly in the board, so I now know why it would never read correctly! Lastly he is adding a small circuit that will activate the reverse lockout solenoid on my T56 to allow it to more easliy go into reverse. I have been just manhandling it over there and while that is not hurting anything, the wife can't get it into reverse by herself.
I also ordered an Autometer 0-100 electric fuel pressure gauge and installed it right above my WB on the cage. It looks great and after fighting a bad ground, works perfectly! I will branch the 0-5 volt off of it when I get the MS back so that I can have it at both places.
Pics soon!
Sent the megasquirt to a buddy to get a few things looked at. He looked at my MAP sensor that has beginning to read lower and lower. It was actually a bad MAP sensor. Luckily, I have two on my setup(one for baro correction), so we just swappeed those and all is well now. Also, he corrected bad work from where I sent it to symtech lab to get an input for FP installed. They had connected it incorrectly in the board, so I now know why it would never read correctly! Lastly he is adding a small circuit that will activate the reverse lockout solenoid on my T56 to allow it to more easliy go into reverse. I have been just manhandling it over there and while that is not hurting anything, the wife can't get it into reverse by herself.
I also ordered an Autometer 0-100 electric fuel pressure gauge and installed it right above my WB on the cage. It looks great and after fighting a bad ground, works perfectly! I will branch the 0-5 volt off of it when I get the MS back so that I can have it at both places.
Pics soon!
02-24-2014, 08:23 AM
#187
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Had a friend fix up a few things on the megasquirt....
1)Map sensor was reading incorrectly
2)Added a reverse solenoid circuit, so that I can get the T56 in reverse without having to overcome the "lockout"
3)Fixing my FP gauge circuit so it will actually work. I previously had a company named Symtech do it and they had added it to a different input than they thought, so I never got it working through Tuner Studios. Luckily it was an easy fix once we got inside the unit.
Here is his update...
Here is an update on the Megasquirt for those interested. As Chris mentioned the one map sensor was bad but the baro sensor was fine. So all I did was swap them on the little board they sit on.
Back together
The Map sensor now reads properly. Baro reads correct as well but the numbers need to be fudged a little bit to make it read right.
Picture of the boards before the lockout circuit is added. The custom circuit already there is the fuel pressure circuit
This is the lockout circuit.
The lockout circuit is something I put in my MS that when the system goes into closed loop idle it allows entry into reverse. When setup right closed loop idle only engages at idle so anytime you are going to 5th gear you can't accidentally hit reverse
Youtube link showing how the operation of the T56 is bypassed when idling!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhnK1...ature=youtu.be
1)Map sensor was reading incorrectly
2)Added a reverse solenoid circuit, so that I can get the T56 in reverse without having to overcome the "lockout"
3)Fixing my FP gauge circuit so it will actually work. I previously had a company named Symtech do it and they had added it to a different input than they thought, so I never got it working through Tuner Studios. Luckily it was an easy fix once we got inside the unit.
Here is his update...
Here is an update on the Megasquirt for those interested. As Chris mentioned the one map sensor was bad but the baro sensor was fine. So all I did was swap them on the little board they sit on.
Back together
The Map sensor now reads properly. Baro reads correct as well but the numbers need to be fudged a little bit to make it read right.
Picture of the boards before the lockout circuit is added. The custom circuit already there is the fuel pressure circuit
This is the lockout circuit.
The lockout circuit is something I put in my MS that when the system goes into closed loop idle it allows entry into reverse. When setup right closed loop idle only engages at idle so anytime you are going to 5th gear you can't accidentally hit reverse
Youtube link showing how the operation of the T56 is bypassed when idling!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhnK1...ature=youtu.be
03-07-2014, 01:27 PM
#188
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MOAR updates!
Added a fuel pressure gauge on the pillar and also got it wired into my megasquirt!!
Also, got a NRG quick release steering wheel. VERY easy to install, very stout, and price wasn't too bad either. I got the thinnest one they make.
Only adds 1 1/5 inch of spacing
Now it's off!
New gauge outlook for Megasquirt FTW.
Added a fuel pressure gauge on the pillar and also got it wired into my megasquirt!!
Also, got a NRG quick release steering wheel. VERY easy to install, very stout, and price wasn't too bad either. I got the thinnest one they make.
Only adds 1 1/5 inch of spacing
Now it's off!
New gauge outlook for Megasquirt FTW.
03-09-2014, 09:24 PM
#189
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After getting the ms back in I noticed at 250 kpa it has an overboost protection that kicks in.
Upped it to 300kpa and it pulled to 6600!!! It was very rich because I haven't dialed in the fuel after the new map sensor was installed.
Also now that I can log fuel pressure I see the pump only gains fuel pressure until around 8 psi of boost and then it drops.
Trying to decide between getting my a1000 rebuilt or buying a holley 1400hp capable one. I am still going to double check my valvesprings to make sure they are up to par. Obviously my injectors are OK, because even at low fp ps1 I am rich. Glad to see that part of the fuel system is ready to go!
After all that and the t/a change I hope to get it back to dyno for more horsepower then to he track for lower 10s and hopefully a 9.99 pass!
Upped it to 300kpa and it pulled to 6600!!! It was very rich because I haven't dialed in the fuel after the new map sensor was installed.
Also now that I can log fuel pressure I see the pump only gains fuel pressure until around 8 psi of boost and then it drops.
Trying to decide between getting my a1000 rebuilt or buying a holley 1400hp capable one. I am still going to double check my valvesprings to make sure they are up to par. Obviously my injectors are OK, because even at low fp ps1 I am rich. Glad to see that part of the fuel system is ready to go!
After all that and the t/a change I hope to get it back to dyno for more horsepower then to he track for lower 10s and hopefully a 9.99 pass!
04-09-2014, 08:11 AM
#190
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Driving to a car show on 4/4/14 I leaned into it and noticed the fuel pressure going down and the AFR leaning out. Let out of it, but looks like I may of been too late.
This is the second fuel pump to do this, so Im 99.99% sure it's the exhaust too close to the fuel lines, causing vapor lock issues after 30-40 minutes of driving. Its PERFECT when cold.
So..... changes will be coming
-Fix issue(hopefully the block and all is good, or I'll be going more cubes)
-new single exhaust
-SINGLE PLANE intake
-Better valve springs
04-10-2014, 10:33 AM
#194
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Drivers side #3.
Going to put another stud in tonight and at least see if that is my only issue in regards to the knock...
I am still changing up exhaust, valvesprings, and pulley for now.
I need to get this fuel starvation problem when hot under control. I am thinking the exhaust is heaing it too much.
More to follow after I try and get it back together tonight...
04-10-2014, 08:23 PM
#195
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It is powdercoated black and the rails are orange to match my atomic orange car.
Rails and everything including 58mm tb say $750? paid 1300 for intake kit and 175 for tb.
Going custom sheetmetal intake with a ls tb.
04-15-2014, 08:28 PM
#197
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Just throwing it out there before I get a custom sheetmetal.
The single plane always seem to work well and are easy to add a hidden dp too...
04-17-2014, 08:18 AM
#198
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I THINK I have now found all of the damage...
Luckily the lifter was still 100% intact and nothing went below. The cam looks fine as well.
So, I have ordered
-Comp 917 Springs
-Custom stud girdle to go with my center-bolt heads
-All new 7/16 studs
-Edelbrock Victor E
-Edelbrock rails
-1 pair of new lifters
Hope to start going back together with it this weekend!
04-25-2014, 10:17 AM
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MOAR updates.
I was in for a couple surprises on this batch of fixing the problem, but that is to be expected.
Somewhere my studs got swapped(don't ask me how) and they are 3/8". Its hard to tell without a 7/16" near it and I know for a fact I had 7/16 studs on this motor before.
Either way I have a new set of 7/16 studs here now. I also ordered a very nice stud girdle that will work with my center bolt heads and have pulled my Competition Cams 7/16 rockers out and got them ready to install once back together....
Next......yet another setback. Started installing my new comp 917 springs and well, my heads are only cut out for a <1.50" spring......... I didn't want to chance running a lesser spring with my new intake and rockers going on, so I pulled the heads to machine the spring pockets out .1" for the larger springs.
She is ready for surgery(and yes, I did keep this on the ENTIRE time the heads were being removed...)
ALMOST done.....
Covered and waiting ....... I am cleaning up and maybe recoating the headers and powder coating a few pieces while it's apart. Always room to be cleaner
Here are the Comp 917 springs. They should more than be enough for my cam and boost combination!
Installed some door pulls, to help shut the door without rolling the window down. Initial pulls and car noises I made while doing so show this will work well in the long run!
Lastly....... Did someone say single plane?????
I can't wait to see the difference this Victor E makes!
I was in for a couple surprises on this batch of fixing the problem, but that is to be expected.
Somewhere my studs got swapped(don't ask me how) and they are 3/8". Its hard to tell without a 7/16" near it and I know for a fact I had 7/16 studs on this motor before.
Either way I have a new set of 7/16 studs here now. I also ordered a very nice stud girdle that will work with my center bolt heads and have pulled my Competition Cams 7/16 rockers out and got them ready to install once back together....
Next......yet another setback. Started installing my new comp 917 springs and well, my heads are only cut out for a <1.50" spring......... I didn't want to chance running a lesser spring with my new intake and rockers going on, so I pulled the heads to machine the spring pockets out .1" for the larger springs.
She is ready for surgery(and yes, I did keep this on the ENTIRE time the heads were being removed...)
ALMOST done.....
Covered and waiting ....... I am cleaning up and maybe recoating the headers and powder coating a few pieces while it's apart. Always room to be cleaner
Here are the Comp 917 springs. They should more than be enough for my cam and boost combination!
Installed some door pulls, to help shut the door without rolling the window down. Initial pulls and car noises I made while doing so show this will work well in the long run!
Lastly....... Did someone say single plane?????
I can't wait to see the difference this Victor E makes!
05-14-2014, 09:32 AM
#200
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Got a few more things finished...
Head studs removed, cleaned, and reinstalled with brand new Cometic gaskets.
Heads installed along with adjusted rocker arms. 5/8" studs along with Comp Cams 1.6 Rocker arms. The girdle wouldn't work with these rockers or my valve covers, so I sent it back in lieu of changing so many things to make it work. I will go straight to shaft mount when I upgrade. The bigger studs and rockers should be a decent upgrade by themselves.
Just a couple quick "how it will look" pictures. This is the Edelbrock Victor E, 2" spacer, 73 Camaro water neck, and custom elbow. There will be a few things that need to be "fabbed". but for the most part, it should work pretty well.
Head studs removed, cleaned, and reinstalled with brand new Cometic gaskets.
Heads installed along with adjusted rocker arms. 5/8" studs along with Comp Cams 1.6 Rocker arms. The girdle wouldn't work with these rockers or my valve covers, so I sent it back in lieu of changing so many things to make it work. I will go straight to shaft mount when I upgrade. The bigger studs and rockers should be a decent upgrade by themselves.
Just a couple quick "how it will look" pictures. This is the Edelbrock Victor E, 2" spacer, 73 Camaro water neck, and custom elbow. There will be a few things that need to be "fabbed". but for the most part, it should work pretty well.