APS Manifolds and turbo exhaust side
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I think I will be picking up a used APS kit. The manifolds look to be in good shape but since it isn't on the car yet I was wondering if anyone coats the manifolds in any type of material such as ceramic coating? If the coating would help the turbo's spool quicker by keeping the heat in the system that would be a bonus to just looking better.
Let me know if anyone has ever done any coating with any turbo manifold stlye set up and if anyone has ever done anything to the hot side of the turbo housing?
Let me know if anyone has ever done any coating with any turbo manifold stlye set up and if anyone has ever done anything to the hot side of the turbo housing?
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What type of coating is best for the manifolds and where is a good place to send the parts?
I would like to do the turbo exhaust housings as well but I am guessing the turbos would need disassembled first and that might not be worth the trouble. Maybe a turbo blanket would be easiest if there is enough space? If I send the turbos to GSS for the billet upgrade Louis could possibly have the housings coated foe me if it is worth it.
It would be nice to keep as much of the heat in the turbo system as possible and not on the surrounding parts of the car or is that a bad idea?
I would like to do the turbo exhaust housings as well but I am guessing the turbos would need disassembled first and that might not be worth the trouble. Maybe a turbo blanket would be easiest if there is enough space? If I send the turbos to GSS for the billet upgrade Louis could possibly have the housings coated foe me if it is worth it.
It would be nice to keep as much of the heat in the turbo system as possible and not on the surrounding parts of the car or is that a bad idea?
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I coated mine both my manifolds and turbo exhaust housings just to help save the starter and the plug wires Those heat shields that come with the APS kit suck *** and will cut you good if your not careful when your working on your ride or changing out the your spark plugs and what not. The only thing else i recommend is you running some type of scavenger pump too because the turbos are still not high enough to drain properly and the stock custom molded APS turbo drain hose bulge from the heat in no time at all and is a freakin pain in the *** buying from APS directly and dealing with the customs bullshit.The new replacement hoses don't hold up any better IMO lol The hoses bulge from the excessive oil heat and sometimes will even close off oil return flow and is why LG motorsports has installed scavenger kits with there APS installs from what ive heard. My belt driven scavenger pump pictured here can still returns the turbo oil into the stock APS oil pan bung locations too if you plan on using them .Let me know if you need one, as i have an extra kit with pump!
The kit will include one of my custom made pump brackets with new bolts, A HTP scavenger pump with a custom made (Pully boys Inc.) polished aluminum pully with keyway and locking allen screws. A new idealer pully, with a custom made longer grade 8 bolt and a longer serp belt The only thing you'll need for install is lines and a catch can.
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/newunderhoodpics001.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/custom%20brackets/CUSTOMBRACKETS003.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/HTP%20scavaging%20pump/HTPscavagingpump004.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/HTP%20scavaging%20pump/HTPscavagingpump005.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/Scavaging%20pump/PUMP012.jpg)
The kit will include one of my custom made pump brackets with new bolts, A HTP scavenger pump with a custom made (Pully boys Inc.) polished aluminum pully with keyway and locking allen screws. A new idealer pully, with a custom made longer grade 8 bolt and a longer serp belt The only thing you'll need for install is lines and a catch can.
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/newunderhoodpics001.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/custom%20brackets/CUSTOMBRACKETS003.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/HTP%20scavaging%20pump/HTPscavagingpump004.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/HTP%20scavaging%20pump/HTPscavagingpump005.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/Scavaging%20pump/PUMP012.jpg)
![](http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff160/ebarnat/Scavaging%20pump/PUMP015.jpg)
Last edited by barnat; 03-30-2011 at 01:08 PM.
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Its always better to have the BOV's as close to the TB as possible and those garbage plastic ones that come with the APS im pretty sure are only rated for 7 psi and are non adjustable
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Actually the Bov's work better when they are close to the turbos. The function of a BOV/Recirc is to stop or reduce compressor surge. Using the Bov's after the intercooler is less efficient compared to a bov that is connected right at the compressor charge pipe.
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I ceramic coated the hotside on my set-up. I had only the exterior done as I didn't want to have to worry about it flaking off the inside and screwing up my turbo's. And I had the cold side powder coated. As you can see in my avatar, I went with the black ceramic and orange on the cold side.
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Actually most just put it where its more convenient. Its there to protect the turbo/blower (depending on application), not the TB. You also vent off air that the intercooler already cooled, wasting energy. TiAL says to put it where the signal line is shortest. So really, its pretty much where its most convenient.