Street build with D1 Procharger..Broke Ls1..Questions..
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Ok after a few thousand miles i broke a rod in my LS1 in my 2002 Trans AM. I was turning 530 RWH. i have been looking at a getting a 370 or a 402 forged long block. I would like to see 700 to 800 RWH. I have read that i shouldnt go with a lot of stroke. but does that just apply to a strip application? or both street and strip? as far a compression i have read that around 9.5 is what you want for a boost application. should you want the compression to be lower with more cubes? now with having an engine being forged do i boost it as much as i can or? I will need to get a Ford 9 in also. What gearing for that much horsepower? I am surprised the Stock rear has held up for this long! Thanks for any info guys.
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For a blower car your target compression should be around 9.5:1 so your already on track with that. I went with a 370 but a 402/408 would be just fine as well if you wanted to run one. I have 3.89's in my 9" but going a tad lower for more power would be a bit better. I plan on swapping to 3.55's or somewhere near that area. The D1 will easily get you in that power area but remember on a bigger motor the blower is going to run out of steam quicker.
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Look in to getting a AES 390ci shortblock. They are the perfect size for a D1SC it will have a thicker top on the pistonthan a 408ci. Also AES has a great reputation and the 390ci is very budget friendly. I will be getting one for my F1A build.
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Please educate me I am in the process of planning a build.
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The D-1SC has a gear reduction ratio of 4.10:0. The F series has a 5.40:1. The series will spin much faster with any given pulley size than the D-1SC, meaning you use a larger pulley with the F series to make the same amount of boost as you would with a D-1SC. The larger pulley (o-O) gives you more belt wrap which helps to minimize belt slippage problems.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm
Check out this link and the options I have at the bottom of the page. Bob
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Ok after a few thousand miles i broke a rod in my LS1 in my 2002 Trans AM. I was turning 530 RWH. i have been looking at a getting a 370 or a 402 forged long block. I would like to see 700 to 800 RWH. I have read that i shouldnt go with a lot of stroke. but does that just apply to a strip application? or both street and strip? as far a compression i have read that around 9.5 is what you want for a boost application. should you want the compression to be lower with more cubes? now with having an engine being forged do i boost it as much as i can or? I will need to get a Ford 9 in also. What gearing for that much horsepower? I am surprised the Stock rear has held up for this long! Thanks for any info guys.
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When you're pushing a D-1SC towards it's boost limit, the inlet air temps are going to be much hotter than with an F-1A that isn't being worked as hard.
The D-1SC has a gear reduction ratio of 4.10:0. The F series has a 5.40:1. The series will spin much faster with any given pulley size than the D-1SC, meaning you use a larger pulley with the F series to make the same amount of boost as you would with a D-1SC. The larger pulley (o-O) gives you more belt wrap which helps to minimize belt slippage problems.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm
Check out this link and the options I have at the bottom of the page. Bob
The D-1SC has a gear reduction ratio of 4.10:0. The F series has a 5.40:1. The series will spin much faster with any given pulley size than the D-1SC, meaning you use a larger pulley with the F series to make the same amount of boost as you would with a D-1SC. The larger pulley (o-O) gives you more belt wrap which helps to minimize belt slippage problems.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm
Check out this link and the options I have at the bottom of the page. Bob
If you had a forged engine that would handle the boost would the F1A be just as reliable as the D1? My plans for my car are a street / strip car around 700 RWHP that's very reliable / drivable etc. and one that will not have to be rebuilt/worked on every few thousand miles.
Last edited by WS6ICK2k; 05-09-2011 at 09:53 AM.
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Thanks Bob, I appreciate your help..... explained everything i needed to know and then some. I actually think the F1 is a little to radical for my plans of my car lol.
If you had a forged engine that would handle the boost would the F1A be just as reliable as the D1? My plans for my car are a street / strip car around 700 RWHP that's very reliable / drivable etc. and one that will not have to be rebuilt/worked on every few thousand miles.
If you had a forged engine that would handle the boost would the F1A be just as reliable as the D1? My plans for my car are a street / strip car around 700 RWHP that's very reliable / drivable etc. and one that will not have to be rebuilt/worked on every few thousand miles.
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Their both going to be reliable. It'll more so depend on how you drive the car. I would have no hesitation to DD my car again if my regular DD took a ****. You could make the power you want on either head unit. The F1's will take a little more modification to make them fit well with a good inlet. The stock procharger one is a piece of **** lol. I DD'd my old combo for over 2 years (There was down time but noting to radical). I put over 50K on her with that combo so there's no reason a forged engine couldn't do it.
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sorry guys i am a dumbass...forgot i started this thread.lol.. good info!..well emissions has cracked down in colorado...dammit!. Does anyone know if a Green (emissions legal) boost cam exists?? or ..i mean if there is a possibility to get 700 RWH and still pass emissions for being a 2002 TA. i honestly dont know if there is a baseline limit (for all cars) to be under or if it is vehicle specific. Dam laws................
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Well you could look into a thunder racing "cheater cam".
they are decent blower cams with a wider lsa so it shouldnt be too lopey, and should work fine. also a p1sc is a smog legal blower, but its kinda on the small side. if im not mistaken you could purchase a used p1sc, and have the internals replaced with d1sc internals. but i could be wrong.
they are decent blower cams with a wider lsa so it shouldnt be too lopey, and should work fine. also a p1sc is a smog legal blower, but its kinda on the small side. if im not mistaken you could purchase a used p1sc, and have the internals replaced with d1sc internals. but i could be wrong.
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The only ProCharger system that is 50 state legal is the P-1SC-1 that comes with their tune. You can't get certification without it including the tune. A P-1SC-1 can be made into a D-1SC...
The Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam is very mild and would easily pass emissions. Bob
The Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam is very mild and would easily pass emissions. Bob
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