T/AWS6969

Ok after a few thousand miles i broke a rod in my LS1 in my 2002 Trans AM. I was turning 530 RWH. i have been looking at a getting a 370 or a 402 forged long block. I would like to see 700 to 800 RWH. I have read that i shouldnt go with a lot of stroke. but does that just apply to a strip application? or both street and strip? as far a compression i have read that around 9.5 is what you want for a boost application. should you want the compression to be lower with more cubes? now with having an engine being forged do i boost it as much as i can or? I will need to get a Ford 9 in also. What gearing for that much horsepower? I am surprised the Stock rear has held up for this long! Thanks for any info guys.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

For a blower car your target compression should be around 9.5:1 so your already on track with that. I went with a 370 but a 402/408 would be just fine as well if you wanted to run one. I have 3.89's in my 9" but going a tad lower for more power would be a bit better. I plan on swapping to 3.55's or somewhere near that area. The D1 will easily get you in that power area but remember on a bigger motor the blower is going to run out of steam quicker.

T/AWS6969

thanks for the input. also what fuel pump (s) are you using? which clutch are you using? thanks?

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I have twin walbro 255's with 60lb hr injectors. I need to run a -8 supply line and regulator though....stock feed isn't enough for the new combo. Right now I have a textralia but its slipping a bit. I have a Mcleod twin disc I need to get rebuilt and I'll put it in.

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

Look in to getting a AES 390ci shortblock. They are the perfect size for a D1SC it will have a thicker top on the pistonthan a 408ci. Also AES has a great reputation and the 390ci is very budget friendly. I will be getting one for my F1A build.

WS6ICK2k

Can someone tell me why exactly people go in the F1A direction versus the D1, I am new to the supercharging scene. I know procharger does not list the F1A on their website under the f bodys.

Please educate me I am in the process of planning a build.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

When you're pushing a D-1SC towards it's boost limit, the inlet air temps are going to be much hotter than with an F-1A that isn't being worked as hard.

The D-1SC has a gear reduction ratio of 4.10:0. The F series has a 5.40:1. The series will spin much faster with any given pulley size than the D-1SC, meaning you use a larger pulley with the F series to make the same amount of boost as you would with a D-1SC. The larger pulley (o-O) gives you more belt wrap which helps to minimize belt slippage problems.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-1GJ20...-Speed-Kit.htm
Check out this link and the options I have at the bottom of the page. Bob

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The best rear gear to go with is going to depend on your rwhp, rpm you want to run through the traps and tire diameter size. A 28" tall tire typically does very well with 3.70/3.75 gears with the horsepower you'll probably be producing. Bob

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Im running a 370 with my D1SC. About 9.1:1 compression. Car made 780rwhp at 15-16psi. Running a 3:73 gear. I have the Nasty/Lonnies Stage 3 dual intank with lines, rails, etc.

WS6ICK2k

Thanks Bob, I appreciate your help..... explained everything i needed to know and then some. I actually think the F1 is a little to radical for my plans of my car lol.

If you had a forged engine that would handle the boost would the F1A be just as reliable as the D1? My plans for my car are a street / strip car around 700 RWHP that's very reliable / drivable etc. and one that will not have to be rebuilt/worked on every few thousand miles.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You're welcome. Yes the F-1A would be just as reliable. Back at the old shop we installed an F-1A on a CTS-V, starting with a new LS2 block, with a 4.00 stroker crank, our blower cam, AFR 225 heads and a FAST 92 intake, it made 864 rwhp at 12.4 psi. The customer has taken the car on road trips, and it has been together now for approx four years. Bob

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

Their both going to be reliable. It'll more so depend on how you drive the car. I would have no hesitation to DD my car again if my regular DD took a ****. You could make the power you want on either head unit. The F1's will take a little more modification to make them fit well with a good inlet. The stock procharger one is a piece of **** lol. I DD'd my old combo for over 2 years (There was down time but noting to radical). I put over 50K on her with that combo so there's no reason a forged engine couldn't do it.

T/AWS6969

sorry guys i am a dumbass...forgot i started this thread.lol.. good info!..well emissions has cracked down in colorado...dammit!. Does anyone know if a Green (emissions legal) boost cam exists?? or ..i mean if there is a possibility to get 700 RWH and still pass emissions for being a 2002 TA. i honestly dont know if there is a baseline limit (for all cars) to be under or if it is vehicle specific. Dam laws................

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

There are plenty of after market cams out there that will pass emission test and get you where you want to be with a Procharger (F1A).

98BLOWNZ28

iTrader: (10)

Well you could look into a thunder racing "cheater cam".
they are decent blower cams with a wider lsa so it shouldnt be too lopey, and should work fine. also a p1sc is a smog legal blower, but its kinda on the small side. if im not mistaken you could purchase a used p1sc, and have the internals replaced with d1sc internals. but i could be wrong.

$ho_tyme

iTrader: (3)

Man that sucks, can it be tuned to get around it? Also on the visual will it pass with a blower on it? Dont know alot on it as we dont have smog check?

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

How strict are the emission rules there?

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

The F1A would get to 700rwhp alot easier and you wouldnt have to spin it as hard, but a D1 will get you there also if you dont wanna spend the money on an F1.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The only ProCharger system that is 50 state legal is the P-1SC-1 that comes with their tune. You can't get certification without it including the tune. A P-1SC-1 can be made into a D-1SC...
The Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam is very mild and would easily pass emissions. Bob

T/AWS6969

I don't know how strict the rules are...yet