tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Hello,

I have a P1SC on my 99 T/A and have a little trouble keeping it cool. It is set up with the standard dual intercoolers, Procharger fan shroud and 16" Procharger fan.
At one point the polarity of the fan wiring was reversed. I fixed that and I still get a bit too hot. ~ 210-220.
The kit is an older one and the fan seems a bit weak.
Can someone tell me the part number for the proper Spal fan to replace??
Thank you

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

While 210-220 is a little bit high, it's not out of control. What temp t-stat do you have in the car and what temperature do you have the fans set to? You can also try adding a coolant additive like Evans.

js2fst

iTrader: (12)

Bob sold a two fan kit. I think procharger changed to spal fans.

blue00ZZleeper

iTrader: (5)

I have dual spal fans in my kit but I'm not sure if they would work with a stock kit. I'll post up numbers later today. One's a 16" and the other is a 9" I believe.

tatasta

iTrader: (24)

I am using a 180* thermostat fans on at 185. I will look into Evans. Never heard of it, really. I think the Spal # is 30102082 from reserching some threads.
Just curious whether switching to a Spal will make much difference.

Awake455

I switched to a straight blade Spal that ProCharger had in stock...it's a bit loud when it kicks on but it did much better than the normal fan. I wound up adding a 9" Spal as well and can keep temps below 205 on 110 degree high humidity days in traffic.

tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Thanks guys. i got a fan on order and will see how it goes.

dlandsvZ28

Whatever you get make sure it NOT the Spal Extreme. The motor, although, powerful and moves a lot of CFM, is not made for street use.

Also make sure the fan is a low profile design. There are other model numbers that are low profile and still high performance. There is not a lot of room to evacuate the hot air in the engine compartment if it is blown directly unto the engine block. The air needs to be blown down and from under the car.

I would get this model instead because it is low profile and comes with a Delphi connector.

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102050

I have the 16 Spal Extreme puller fan. It for sure pulls more CFM than the ATI 16 inch fan it replaced. However I recently read that it is for racing purposes only and not daily driver use. That was information I didn't inquire about when I talked to Spal about the Extreme and that it would replace the ATI fan. But mine is at least five years old. At that time Spal was pretty much unknown in our community.

The Spal draws so much air it will burn your feet when standing next to the driver's side front bumper if you are wearing sandals. Believe me.

So ask SPAL first and find out extactly what the life expectancy is in hours for the model you plan to purchase. The Spal Extreme is pricey and it's not something you want to replace or very often.

I had the same problem with overheating (ATI D1SC...in Kansas with 90 + days with AC on).

I removed the stock ATI fan and installed the SPAL Extreme which pulls 3000 cfm. Since I had to remove the ATI shroud anyway to install the SPAL I cut a 9 inch hole on the driver side and mounted a 9 inch which pulls 740 cfm. With both fans I am pulling approx 3600-3700 cfm which is considerably more than the stock twins or the ATI single POS.

Since I was one of the first to install two fans my mod is sometimes referred to as the dlandsv mod with a lot of naysayers at first arguing that one fan was more than enough to keep temps down and reasonable.

The SPAL 16 is a direct bolt on. The 9 inch was more time-consuming to install than difficult because of measuring and cutting the 9 inch hole. Once installed everything just wires back to the stock dual fans wiring. BTW, I have a Meziere electric water pump and a 160 thermosat and set both fans to come on at 160.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537

The install looks stock. Car still reaches 210 (I have a 98 with correct temp gauge) idling with the AC on but runs around 185 moving, at lights etc with the AC running.

I have since installed two 12 inch pusher fans on the face of the condensor. That mod has pretty much solved all overheating when AC is turned on.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...57623345499537

The SPAL is pricey, but they are topline. Flexalite has a 16 inch 3300 cfm that is cheaper.

Tip: Tape cardboard onto your radiator before you reinstall the fan(s) and shroud. It will save ripping a hole in radiator tubes as you negotiate the fan and shroud back into place. Pull the cardboard out from the bottom after everything is back in place.

It the AC that causes overheating - so it must be perfectly clean of all debris in order to function at 100 percent. The bottom four inches on the condensor is typically full of gravel and mud/dirt as a result of the suction and design of the enclosed cavity ahead of the ac condensor.

Obviously your radiator must be perfectly clean as well. I removed the stock radiator and installed the SLP 97 style radiator. It is about 1/2 " thicker core and tubes.

I also run less anti-freeze in the summer. One hundred percent water removes more heat from the cooling system than a mixture of 50/50 antifreeze. The downside is that the boiling point is reduced with just water unless you increase cap pressure. In the summer I run about 10 percent Dexcool with Motor Max.

http://www.firefreezemotormax.com/

You can also use Water Wetter.