Signs of a bad Procharger?
#1
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Can a procharger unit be bad even if it still makes boost? Personally I would expect a unit to either work or not, seeing that it is only a set of gears.
I only ask since I've been chasing down a random problem with my Procharged LS1 for the past 2 years with zero luck. No leaks, no belt slip (sdce), no cracks, clean intercoolers, but I only see 50% of the boost I should be seeing. Also my MAF reads 6g/s without the blower... and 4.5g/s with the blower? Vacuum is really high (26) and doesn't see boost till after 4000. Ugh.
I only ask since I've been chasing down a random problem with my Procharged LS1 for the past 2 years with zero luck. No leaks, no belt slip (sdce), no cracks, clean intercoolers, but I only see 50% of the boost I should be seeing. Also my MAF reads 6g/s without the blower... and 4.5g/s with the blower? Vacuum is really high (26) and doesn't see boost till after 4000. Ugh.
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#9
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If it's not impeller direction it's probably a bad or wrongly plum by-pass valve. To test, you could remove the by-pass altogether and plug the hole. If it makes the proper amount of boost you found the source of the problem.
The vacuum line to my by-pass was originally plum from the horn vacuum reservoir which made it stay open all the time (that black ball is fed with one-way vacuum check valve). The car made 5 psi of boost with the by-pass open, but once it was corrected boost jumped to 10 psi.
The vacuum line to my by-pass was originally plum from the horn vacuum reservoir which made it stay open all the time (that black ball is fed with one-way vacuum check valve). The car made 5 psi of boost with the by-pass open, but once it was corrected boost jumped to 10 psi.
#10
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BrianC98Z28 - Thinking about sending it in just to rule out any issue. Personally I would like to borrow a unit from someone for a day but no such luck with that. See attached photo about rotation.
Slowhawk - Didn't think the unit would still make boost with the impeller set as standard rotation. I doubt that is the case but I attached photo's for you to see.
white01ss - Tired three different vacuum source's directly off the back of the manifold and at the HVAC, also made sure the check valve was removed at the one manifold source. Right now it is hooked up at the brake booster per FLP. I also have two bypass valve's that I tested. However I still plan to remove the valve and block off the port, as you mention, since I haven't tried that.
Appreciate the replies.
Slowhawk - Didn't think the unit would still make boost with the impeller set as standard rotation. I doubt that is the case but I attached photo's for you to see.
white01ss - Tired three different vacuum source's directly off the back of the manifold and at the HVAC, also made sure the check valve was removed at the one manifold source. Right now it is hooked up at the brake booster per FLP. I also have two bypass valve's that I tested. However I still plan to remove the valve and block off the port, as you mention, since I haven't tried that.
Appreciate the replies.
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did you buy this new or used?? Heres a link to a very similar problem, thats why I say send it to procharger or call them to give them the serial and they can tell you. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...si-help-2.html
#12
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BrianC98Z28 - I've talked to them before and gave them my serial. Never specially asked about rotation. But according to the photo's in the thread and other's that I have seen, my rotation is correct. Punisher_ws7 does look like a standard rotation, reverse of mine.
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I having the same issue with my P1. But i think it may be my pulley combo. I need to call bob and ask what the right size/ combo should be. I know I have a 3.85 on the blower now and it's only makIng 4 lbs
#16
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7.25" Crank/3.4" Blower spinning at 6,000rpm. Making 5-6psi. 8-Rib SDCE. SDCE is installed correct, belt is nice and tight. I upgraded to SDCE to rule out belt slip since I used to run the 6-Rib 6" crank/3.1" blower combination and only made 3.3psi.
#17
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I ran the 7.25 crank with a 3.70 on my D1 combo and it made 10ish psi. I wish I had more advice on what the problem might be. I'm going to assume you checked all your piping and your manifold correct? The thing that has me confused is how the vacuum is so high. What's the rest of the combo?
#18
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I ran the 7.25 crank with a 3.70 on my D1 combo and it made 10ish psi. I wish I had more advice on what the problem might be. I'm going to assume you checked all your piping and your manifold correct? The thing that has me confused is how the vacuum is so high. What's the rest of the combo?
I discussed a possibility of maybe something odd with the valve-springs or if a piston ring may somehow be bad with FLP. The motor runs as it should without the blower attached.
As far what is done to the car... pretty straight forward. Long tubes headers no cats, comp pushrods, dual valve springs, level 5 4l65e with 3200 stall.
#19
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The D-1SC seems to generally make around 3 psi more than the P-1SC with any given pulley. I'd next try removing the bypass valve and try running it briefly without it. Also, confirm the bypass valve is installed the correct direction. Bob
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#20
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That amount of vacuum still has me confused. Do you have any dyno sheets? That high of a vacuum and that low of a max boost pressure is weird. If you go 100% throttle at 3000rpm it should at least go to 0" I would figure (rough estimate) Try a compression test and see what it comes up with? Maybe a leak down as well?