Wiring a hi/low boost circuit?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
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Wiring a hi/low boost circuit? I'm running a Turbo Technology single turbo kit with the external wastegate controlled by a Turbonetics manual boost control valve. I've got a solenoid valve that I'd like to add to remotely switch from the boost setting provided by the Turbonetics valve and the standard boost setting provided by the wastegate without the Turbonetics valve. This would create a "high/low" boost switch for alot less money than the other options out there. The Turbonetics valve acts like a "bleed" valve that fools the wategate into thinking it is seeing less boost than it really is thus tricking the wastgate into opening later and creating more boost. Can anyone provide guidance?
Thanks!
Thanks!
if the turbonetics valve is a "bleeder" and not a ball/spring type, you are giving up a few hundred rpms in spool time. I had the black **** type turbonetics bleeder (like 100 bux) swapped it for a cheapo ball check I made from parts at Grainger (10-15 bux)
and noticed my turbo spooled quicker and boost was a little more consistent. I know this is not what you asked but thought I'd pass along the info
and noticed my turbo spooled quicker and boost was a little more consistent. I know this is not what you asked but thought I'd pass along the info
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by TurboDan
I'm running a Turbo Technology single turbo kit with the external wastegate controlled by a Turbonetics manual boost control valve. I've got a solenoid valve that I'd like to add to remotely switch from the boost setting provided by the Turbonetics valve and the standard boost setting provided by the wastegate without the Turbonetics valve. This would create a "high/low" boost switch for alot less money than the other options out there. The Turbonetics valve acts like a "bleed" valve that fools the wategate into thinking it is seeing less boost than it really is thus tricking the wastgate into opening later and creating more boost. Can anyone provide guidance?
Thanks!
Thanks!
My setup works great, no boost spikes, superfast spool. It is set at 9 psi. I can get full boost even with part throttle by 3000 rpm. Before the boost controller I would not have full boost (5.5 psi) until redline due to the high altitude here. Infact, it works to good no traction in first, second or the two/three shift even at a low of 40 % or so throttle.
Gary
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Originally Posted by TurboDan
I'm running a Turbo Technology single turbo kit with the external wastegate controlled by a Turbonetics manual boost control valve. I've got a solenoid valve that I'd like to add to remotely switch from the boost setting provided by the Turbonetics valve and the standard boost setting provided by the wastegate without the Turbonetics valve. This would create a "high/low" boost switch for alot less money than the other options out there. The Turbonetics valve acts like a "bleed" valve that fools the wategate into thinking it is seeing less boost than it really is thus tricking the wastgate into opening later and creating more boost. Can anyone provide guidance?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sounds like you have all the parts to do it. You could use a timer to switch between your different boost levels. You would need 2 solenoids for this, but it sounds like you have it all. You could start the timer off a button. This would give you xxpsi off the line. A few seconds later, the timer closes the first valve and then opens the second, giving you more boost.
Make sense?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
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My Turbonetics is a bleeder valve, and I am interested in how to make the relief/check valve setup. But where I really need help is figuring out how to plumb the solenoid valve to make a hi/lo boost switch. I tried a bunch of combinations the other night but couldn't get it right. The ideal setup would incorporate two of the relief/check valves with the solenoid selecting one or the other for adjustable hi/lo boost settings. Does this seem possible? The closest I could figure was wiring two solenoid valves like Scott suggests to block one line and open another.
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by TurboDan
My Turbonetics is a bleeder valve, and I am interested in how to make the relief/check valve setup. But where I really need help is figuring out how to plumb the solenoid valve to make a hi/lo boost switch. I tried a bunch of combinations the other night but couldn't get it right. The ideal setup would incorporate two of the relief/check valves with the solenoid selecting one or the other for adjustable hi/lo boost settings. Does this seem possible? The closest I could figure was wiring two solenoid valves like Scott suggests to block one line and open another.
Gary
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by 69firebird
what kind of solenoid are you talking about using?
this sounds very interesting.
I am a little curious how this will work
thanks
ed
this sounds very interesting.
I am a little curious how this will work
thanks
ed
Gary
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by red ws6 99
Just about any solenoid should work for such a low pressure operation. Of course you won't be able to just switch between the two boost level without reprogramming the pcm first or running an aftermarket controller that can sense boost.
Gary
Gary
I haven't had to change PCM programming for different boost levels. Once the power enrichment tables were set the MAF seems to do a good job of compensating for increased airflow. I pull 12 degrees of timing where I make peak torque and 10 degrees higher up the RPM range. Am I missing something? Just curious because I'm still tuning this thing and learning as I go. Haven't broken anything since the forged pistons were installed :-)
Thanks,
Last edited by TurboDan; Mar 5, 2004 at 11:57 PM. Reason: typo
Originally Posted by TurboDan
...Am I missing something? Just curious because I'm still tuning this thing and learning as I go. Haven't broken anything since the forged pistons were installed
My 2 cents - flipping a switch for 2 boost levels sounds cool but is'nt worth the effort = choose one boost level and tune for it.
Let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
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Originally Posted by DaveSchott
If you toggle between 2 boost settings, you're essentially toggling between 2 a/f ratios since more boost means more air. There is no dynamic capability built in the pcm at wot to adjust the fuel. I THINK you'd need and aftermarket computer that has wideband to pull this off, or an auxillary fuel method like alky injection that can be manually or automatically turned up.
My 2 cents - flipping a switch for 2 boost levels sounds cool but is'nt worth the effort = choose one boost level and tune for it.
Let us know how it goes.
My 2 cents - flipping a switch for 2 boost levels sounds cool but is'nt worth the effort = choose one boost level and tune for it.
Let us know how it goes.
Just my own $.02.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by red ws6 99
Yes you just use the solenoids to block one of the paths and open the other. Did I answer your questions on the PM?
Gary
Gary
Gary-
I didn't see a PM. Not sure what happened. I get what you are describing, though. That is what I will try once I pick up one more solenoid valve. Thanks!
Originally Posted by TurboDan
I'd have to disagree from experience. I've run at various boost levels (manually adjusted with a bleeder valve) and logged MAF readings and injector pulse widths and wideband O2 readings on the dyno. At 7psi I get 320g/s readings from the MAF and at 10psi I get 380g/s. The injector pulsewidths also increase proporionally and the air fuel ratios remain about the same. As long as you haven't maxed the MAF or forced the PCM into speed density...,
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by DaveSchott
Yes, If you haven't pegged the MAF. I just assumed you were at or over that point. If this is a stock LS1 you must be close on 10 psi?
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by TurboDan
Nope, just an LT1 with stock heads and cam. My NEXT car will be an LS1. That's why I read this board. Too much damn money and emotion invested in the car to part with it just yet.
Yeah PE does not need to change much but timing usually does. But of course I am running on 91 octane at 9 psi, with actual gas may not be an isssue. I sent you info for a back pressure regulator from mcmaster carr that will work as a relief valve. It has a **** to adjust boost, very sensitive. One turn is like .5 psi. I have one of these but have not tried in on the car. It leak tight until the boost set point. Check valve anything with .3 psi or less cracking and good seal off under pressure. I have not tried a vacuum relief valve, but they should work as well.
Gary
