on3 turbo
I know I'm a little late with this, but the best fitting drain flange for this turbo is the Vibrant 2898. I assembled my hose off the car and then just bolted the flange on. I have all the clearance in the world.
Looking to purchase journal version for my 4.8 silverado as a rear mount. Think the 76 with a .81 would be to big. Looking for quick spooling and more usable street torque then anything else.
at least its a cheap thing to get so its ont like im throwing hundreds of dollars at it. and i can savef it for later
Whats your hp goals? A 4.8 with a turbo cam won't have trouble spooling the 76mm even if its rear mounted. I say the .81 housing is perfect for rear mount it spooled the 76mm in my s10 fast. The t70 will probably leave you wanting more, unless you are sticking with the stock cam, I'm that case go with the 70mm
for future reference for anyone, ive stated before that an angled oil drain flange is almost a must if you plan on using a 10an fitting. if your just using a push on then not so much. the angled flange gives you room to thread on the fitting and so you dont have to grind the bolts that hold the compressor housing. also it you clock it right, its out of the way so you can get to the bolt. Mind you if you leave a bolt out, make sure its NOT the one on the compressor outlet. the bolt goes through to the inside. youll be losing boost if you dont keep a bolt in there. id recoomend some kind of sealant on that one. i noticed this while i was trying to pre clock my turbo for my rear turbo loccation. fortunatly i didnt find out while trying to figure out a boost leak lol
It clocks nicly too. all the bolts are reasonably accesable and tighen down. Funny thing too is oyu can use your old valley pan bolts to bolt down the feed and drain flanges lol ill probably change those to stainless bolts later but for now, these work great and bold down further in the bolt hold for a more secure bolting. the bolts supplied by the flanges are too short. only give about a half inch of bite while the valey pan bolts are a good 1ich maybe more and have a flared head nice!
It clocks nicly too. all the bolts are reasonably accesable and tighen down. Funny thing too is oyu can use your old valley pan bolts to bolt down the feed and drain flanges lol ill probably change those to stainless bolts later but for now, these work great and bold down further in the bolt hold for a more secure bolting. the bolts supplied by the flanges are too short. only give about a half inch of bite while the valey pan bolts are a good 1ich maybe more and have a flared head
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I followed this thread back when it was active. I just re-read it all.
Now that it's been a few years I'd like to know how long these turbos have lasted for those that have at least a few thousand miles on them.
It's hard to find good info about these. Threads about them are full of people bashing Chinese turbos, people saying the bought one but haven't installed it, or people that have dyno-ed but have no mileage on them yet.
This thread was about the 7665 but I'm interested in experiences with the 7875 too.
If you had one fail, please share how long it lasted and what you think caused it to fail.
If you have one still going, how many miles have you put on it?
Now that it's been a few years I'd like to know how long these turbos have lasted for those that have at least a few thousand miles on them.
It's hard to find good info about these. Threads about them are full of people bashing Chinese turbos, people saying the bought one but haven't installed it, or people that have dyno-ed but have no mileage on them yet.
This thread was about the 7665 but I'm interested in experiences with the 7875 too.
If you had one fail, please share how long it lasted and what you think caused it to fail.
If you have one still going, how many miles have you put on it?
Last edited by t_raven; Jul 31, 2015 at 05:46 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 47
Likes: 18
The only thing I have seen I did not like about there complete kits ( mustang kit) is the mild steel headers, idk why they don't offer a 321 stainless, cause we all know mild steel rusts and with the heat temps the headers receive no coating is going to last. I seen a guy selling a used on3 kit on racingjunk.com and the headers looked awful with surface rust. Hope they make the ls1 kits out of stainless. Also do ur homework on the turbo oil feeds, the most common mistake is the oil feed from newbie's on turbo's. If its a journal bearing turbo it requires no oil restrictor if its a ball bearing turbo it does require one and you should ask the manufacture there specs. I have seen more turbo's blew up due to this than anything. I'm interested in the 76mm feed backs. I may upgrade over the winter.
