Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Attention all stock shortblock players!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-30-2011, 04:21 PM
  #121  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
Sarg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I am left deciding if I should run some rust in the cylinder or try to find a junkyard motor that ACTUALLY does not have rust in it for a reasonable price, lol. Already have the rod bolts
Old 09-30-2011, 04:37 PM
  #122  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
JAX04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Everything in my area is expensive as hell, and the 4.8 i bought, has a significant amount of rust in the cylinders. so i said F that.

I may have to break down and spend some more money. Id like to go after this now with my RX7, will i make the even, probably not, but id like to attempt it, lol
Old 09-30-2011, 04:40 PM
  #123  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
Sarg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I hear ya, but I figure I could buy 3-4 $150 motors for the price of buying new pistons and getting it bored over...the question is will any of those be any better, lol.
Old 09-30-2011, 04:49 PM
  #124  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
JAX04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

only way im getting a 150 dollar motor is if i go pull it myself, lol
Old 09-30-2011, 04:50 PM
  #125  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
Sarg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Oh yeah, same here!
Old 09-30-2011, 04:56 PM
  #126  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
JAX04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

oh well, ive got tons of work to do anyhow, lol. not like ill be remotley close to ready anyhow, lol.
Old 09-30-2011, 04:58 PM
  #127  
TECH Fanatic
 
2000RATA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

The rod bolt issue is stupid to complain about if you are okay with aftermarket head bolts. If you want a good head bolt so you lessen the chance of lifting a head why wouldnt you want a good rod bolt? I'd rather blow a head gasket than scatter the bottom end. Where is the logic?
Old 09-30-2011, 05:02 PM
  #128  
TECH Fanatic
 
2000RATA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: KS
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

And yeah I get short block = rod bolts long block = head bolts but really?
Old 09-30-2011, 05:03 PM
  #129  
On The Tree
iTrader: (21)
 
SippiSpeedhawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Moss Point, MS
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 2000RATA
The rod bolt issue is stupid to complain about if you are okay with aftermarket head bolts. If you want a good head bolt so you lessen the chance of lifting a head why wouldnt you want a good rod bolt? I'd rather blow a head gasket than scatter the bottom end. Where is the logic?
Besides, they aren't the weakest link in the system anyway.

But, I'm a little biased because I have them and I want to run.
Old 09-30-2011, 05:05 PM
  #130  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
 
JAX04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Well, its not really the same at all.

Im for them being allowed, HOWEVER< they are part of the bottom end, where as the heads and head bolts are NOT.

Im fine either direction.
Old 09-30-2011, 11:02 PM
  #131  
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
turbodiesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Been working on the website design and we're coming up with a humorous logo and eventually t-shirts ect for competitors. Writing down rules and making more calls ect. Keeping everyone updated as much as possible

Was at the track tonight and another turbo 5.3 with nitrous was running for the first time tonight on low boost. 5psi = 6.70 in the 1/8th off the footbrake
Old 10-01-2011, 01:20 AM
  #132  
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Blown06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,181
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

so.....can I pull the crank out and have it double keyed?
Old 10-01-2011, 10:17 AM
  #133  
On The Tree
 
LS1LT1CAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: IL
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Blown06
so.....can I pull the crank out and have it double keyed?
I don't think that would be a problem this is going to be about making as much power on the stock short block as possible put a f2r on one see what happens that would be bad ***
Old 10-01-2011, 10:21 AM
  #134  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (33)
 
skinnies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: KS
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Anytime you tear apart the stock shortblock I don't consider it a stock shortblock anymore, example I think it was tirefryin or someone who wanted to replace the bearings with stock bearings and rings with stock rings(possibly opened up) to create a fresh motor. I don't consider that a stock shortblock anymore, I think it should be just as it came from the junkyard(aka how gm built it), like I've mentioned I think rod bolts should stay stock, but they have become over the years so accepted it's hard to argue with them anymore with so many people wanting to do them and still consider it a stock shortblock.
Old 10-01-2011, 05:24 PM
  #135  
TECH Apprentice
 
atomic 6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Omaha,Ne
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Can't it just be double or triple pinned, and then the crank doesn't have to be removed.

We have been pinning all of the aluminum engines we run, even without blowers, because the aluminum engines like to loosen the balancer oddly.
It is easily done, and looks to be pretty hard to break even just one pin.

I still like the idea, of going fast on a stock longblock, but everybody wants to change the gaskets, head bolts, and rod bolts.

So short block it is, now people want to take them apart too.

But, we should have cars that fit anyway it goes, so however the rules end up, I hope it is a success, and we have a some fun.

If you have an engine that can't fit the program, just go get a stock short block to put in the car. And save the other one with the excluding hardware for after you blow the junkyard one up.
Old 10-01-2011, 05:39 PM
  #136  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
 
Hank Peabody's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 667
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by atomic 6
Can't it just be double or triple pinned, and then the crank doesn't have to be removed.

We have been pinning all of the aluminum engines we run, even without blowers, because the aluminum engines like to loosen the balancer oddly.
It is easily done, and looks to be pretty hard to break even just one pin.
Yeah good idea, you'd break the snout off the crank before youd have a pin fail probably. Pinning is so fool proof and easy it makes you wonder why a key was ever installed as it takes a machine shop versus pinning in your garage.
Old 10-02-2011, 01:10 AM
  #137  
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
 
Blown06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,181
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

So if pinning it is ok but cut keyways are not, whats the advantage?

I know, I know
Old 10-02-2011, 04:17 AM
  #138  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
 
Fbodyjunkie06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 4,712
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by skinnies
Anytime you tear apart the stock shortblock I don't consider it a stock shortblock anymore, example I think it was tirefryin or someone who wanted to replace the bearings with stock bearings and rings with stock rings(possibly opened up) to create a fresh motor. I don't consider that a stock shortblock anymore, I think it should be just as it came from the junkyard(aka how gm built it), like I've mentioned I think rod bolts should stay stock, but they have become over the years so accepted it's hard to argue with them anymore with so many people wanting to do them and still consider it a stock shortblock.
To me what your describing is a JY motor. A stock shortblock could be fresh as the day it came from GM with no miles on it, but it isn't a junk yard motor with miles on it. If you take one from a JY and freshen it, it's still a JY motor theoretically, it's just freshened up to be the same way it came from GM like you say it should. Engarde!
Old 10-02-2011, 08:04 AM
  #139  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (127)
 
NemeSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 6,888
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
LS1Tech 10 Year
Default

Stock,to me means stock crank,stock rods and rod bolts,stock rods,mains and cam bearings the way they came from the factory.
No arp rod bolts. Stock gm rod bolts.yes
Heads and head bolts are not part of the short block.
Keep the stock short block 100% stock gm issue rotating assembly
Old 10-02-2011, 09:58 AM
  #140  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
SATAN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Denver, CO.
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Guy#1 "Stock to me means this... blah blah shouldn't be allowed."

Guy#2 "No, NO, stock is this and blah blah blah shouldn't be allowed."

Guy#456 "No stock is when blah blah blah."

Who is going to be the one in charge of pulling the winning engine apart to see who is actually running stock and who is lying? If it's you, are you qualified to say "Those are OEM bearings, but they aren't original!"

It's just $2,500 guys, it's not big enough to get all super picky and technical about it. Just go have fun with it.


Quick Reply: Attention all stock shortblock players!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:15 AM.