cr133r

Vehicle specific AEMs tend to cost aroun 1400-1600 bucks. Add the dual channel wideband for another 5-600 and thats pretty much all you would need. Unfortunately, I haven't got a clue as to when the LS1 specific controller will come out, but maybe with all the interest that we've created with this car, they can be persuaded to put a little more resource on it (working on aircraft engine controllers[my day job], I know its still gonna take quite some time to get it right).

If I could find both male/female connectors, I could easily set the AEM up to work with the cars, but I don't think the connector on the ECU side exists.

BTW, there is NO reason to keep the stock ECU in the car, the AEM has a multitude of inputs/outputs and on most cars, it keeps the emissions controls intact when replacing the stock ECU. Its also got dual band O2 inputs as well as the ability to use EGTs as an input.

2001-WS6

The specific car kits are probably in the $1,500 - $1,700 range with the harness for that vehicle. Then there are add ons for sensors like EGT, Wideband, Backpressure senors and such. So the pricing model is pretty close to Gen VII and FAST.

The issue is some cool boost related bells and whistle vs. the blood, sweat and tears that cr133r went through to wire this puppy up.

Rick

2001-WS6

Whoops... I was a minute slow from being helpful.

Rick

got_hp?

but they dont have a vehicle specific for fbody.........so would you just purchase the generic system, without a their harness? im guessing that would be a bit cheaper.

any possibility of being able to wire this up on an LT1 fbody?

2001-WS6

I'm guessing with their production volumes that they don't have a generic package at this point. It is probably cr133r's skills that created the prototype generic package with some wire cutters.

Rick

cr133r

Someone's on the right track... Seriously though, we ended up using a Honda 1010 box which is VERY close to being what their universal box is going to be, at least at this point. Unfortunately to work with an LS1 there are some internal mods that I have to perform (good thing my background was in the engine management [aircraft] feild, hardware and software).

And I ONLY cut 16 wires damn it... LOL

Seriously though, if you could find a dead ECU I believe GM sells the harness parts through normal channels. I'd just have to cut the connector off the stock ECU to make a jumper harness to the AEM like I did with the Vette (except the Vette is hard wired in). This approach would work for ANY LS1 vehicle (you would have to tap one wire going to the throttle controller though).

2001-WS6

Hooking the AEM into the stock PCM connector would sure save some pain. That would leave just lines for cools stuff like the bonus switches and sensors.

I have to believe that we have enough fried PCMs sitting around that we could find you the conenctors.

Rick

cr133r

What'd I'd probably do is piggyback to the stock ECU (od an inline harness with M/F connectors), that way you don't lose any functionality (with a little more work, the piggyback setup might even pass the OBDII smog check because the ECU still thinks its running the car). The Vette sets O2 codes and it sets the ignition feedback codes, but I think I can get around those.

meangreen94z

Do you have any idea how long the block will last?

cr133r

That remains to be seen... Turbos are usually the easiest on parts for a given power level. It probably a good thing that we couldn't get more air to the turbos, because we fully intended to max out the dyno that night (should take about 16-18PSI to hit the 1200RWHP mark).

I would assume with the conservative tune 10.5:1-11:1 it should last quite some time since we aren't on the edge of fueling or timing.

meangreen94z

Well I was more wondering the block integrity. Im not too familiar with the LQ9(block thickness, dimensions etc.), but in just a comparison, the LT1 block is prone to cracking after extended use at the 1000rwhp mark and beyond. Im sure theres design differences but they are both comparitively made out of iron. Also the MTI iron 408ci is a mainly bored block if I remember correctly, would that compromise the cylinder wall strength?

Not attacking your work, but with numbers like that it just made me wonder.

InvisibleSun

With those kinda numbers, you will have the fastest LS1 on the planet! Can't wait to see some track times! Mid-8's???

I'm assuming you are doing a water/air intercooler?

2001-WS6

I thinks this really is new territory for this block from a boost power lever level perspective. At least it's new from an Internet Information distribution point of view. So this car is the current yardstick for a boosted iron block.

Rick

cr133r

Honestly, our target was in the solid 800s... We had NO IDEA it would put these kind of numbers down (It makes 775 at 6.5PSI). I thought the motor was at most 30 over with a stoked crank, I can check with the builder if need be..

Its an air-air intercooler actually. Seems to be doing a fine job of keeping IATs down (at that low of boost, it shouldn't be too difficult).

One thing I do know is that most people thought a Ford 5.0 block was only good for about 500HP (crank) back in the day because they were measuring it against nitrous combinations. With boost and a good tune, it can fandle far more for quite some time, but inevitably it fails. I would have to assume this may be the same case here, but we can always hope it'll stay together (I'm sure the GM engineers didn't plan for anyone to push this far).

meangreen94z

I looked it up and Im wrong, I had it confused with their 387ci allbore motor. The overall bore is 4.030", I dont know the stock bore but looking at their other motors it's probably around 4.0" as you suggested

http://www.motorsporttech.com/c5_engine02.asp

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

that's gonna be a tall order w/ a 6 speed

not to mention keeping the shafts in it. Every time i go into mine you can see the shifted wear on the intermediate shaft gears from case flex. Borrowed time to say the least

cr133r

Please don't confuse this motor with the MTI shortblock. We did in fact buy a shortblock from them, but our local machinist went through it and corrected several problems (again, I won't go into the details because its unfair to discredit a company in any way using just one example of a motor). At this point though, we can now get all of the parts necessary to build the motor through the local machinist and can probably produce a 408 stroker short block for less money.

It most likely is on borrowed time, but we hope we can borrow enough to get at least one good pass out of it.

The car has gone 9.90s on about 670RWHP. It won't go 8s, but with traction it should run some scary 9s at the track.

I say this only because some people have been confused recently and assumed MTI built the entire car, which they did not.

JRL96TA

That's what I want. A piggyback that will allow better control over the engine, while still passing the OBDII smog check.

got_hp?

i dont give two craps about passing any smog checks....florida has none!

so could this piggyback setup work for an LT1 also?

sc300tt

VERY IMPRESSIVE! It's about time you big engine boys started getting it done with turbos. Billy, your work is just as impressive as Chris (PM) said. Very clean setup and great numbers so far, but I'm sure that dyno will be pegged soon. Nice to see Stacey got a real winner. And to think, I remember videoing that car when SW was running it neck and neck(Supra passenger seat) against Darren's Supra (AKA Walser) one late Austin night. Luckily Darren has sold his Supra, cause I don't think 3.0 liters is gonna be able to keep up very easily anymore. Congrats, and I think I'll have to make it to the Texas Meet just to see this car.

PS, have you seen SW's new Daily.