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Ati damper install help!!!!

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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #41  
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Even with cutting oil, the suppled drill bit would not do it for me, initially. I had to cut a smaller guide hole with a tinier bit first, stepped up to a size in between, then the supplied bit. Remember that if you still can't get it to drill through. You don't want to break the supplied bit. You should have enough of a depression from your initial drillling to make the path of the smaller bit true.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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Damn, you guys must have gotten the engines with the hardened cranks. I just used a Plain-Jane bit from work and it took like 30 sec of drilling to get it done.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:07 PM
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i actually got it done!!!! , and with the supplied bit only. i had to push very firmly ....enough to lower the drills rpm. and it was an electric dewalt. about every 20 seconds or so I would dip the drill in a cup of cutting oil. the oil was dark when i finished. i took off the jig only to find out that using prochargers 1 inch and 5/8 tape marker failed to go deep enough. the pin hadnt even gotten a chance to be pushed halfway...so i measured the remainder and went back at it. all in all with one smoke break i managed to get the hole drilled in 2 hours. it was 30 outside and windy...but not raining thank god. i was going to video it.....but i looked in my camera only to realise my SD card was still in this laptop at home. but the light sucked. so once i clean off the shavings and nasty oil ill still make it. i know that it will help someone tremendously one day. i am however looking at the super damper which is already attatched to the balancer and noticing that some of if not just one of the holes is not lined up with the damper. my buddy says that is why it is probably called and offset hole? anyone familiar with this or have any input? by the way a strong magnet helps get the bulk of the shavings off so you can see.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #44  
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Glad you got it done, Now STOP ASKING FOR HELP!!!, J/K, couldnt help it. haha.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #45  
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i know...me and my lack of knowledge and thirst for learning from experience is just downright uncalled for.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Damn, you guys must have gotten the engines with the hardened cranks. I just used a Plain-Jane bit from work and it took like 30 sec of drilling to get it done.
DEFINITELY not my experience. And this crank was forged, not stock.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #47  
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I used a diamond coated bit and it took me like 4 min start to finish lol....with setting up. Glad you finally put your purse down and did it! What's next now?
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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I used a diamond coated bit and it took me like 4 min start to finish lol....with setting up. Glad you finally put your purse down and did it! What's next now? lol
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:45 PM
  #49  
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next is me finding out what the hell to do with these spacers and the j bracket. also not all of my holes line up on the damper. bob wanted me to make a vid of it to show the way the holes are lined up. so im going to go make one real quick.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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well i got the thing drilled obviously. i removed the balancer and damper to clean the shavings. now that everything i cleaned and i have my anti seize on....i am going through the dreaded process of lining the half moons back up so i can punch in the pin. i go it lined up and put the bolt in and tightened it only to have the balancer spin on the crank just a few millimeters to where the pin wont go in. so i think now ill remove it a 4th time and push it on....put the pin in first...and then put the bolt in last. i think you will all find that this is the best way to go. it will require getting the assembled pulley on almost all the way without use of the bolt. has anyone got any information on how i should approach putting the bracket on. there are alot of specifics as far as spacers and sizes. since i havent used my AIR in a year it wont be going back on, and thu will not be relocated. i think all that is left now is to get the J-Bracket on, mount the headunit. then i can begin to attatch the intercooler and run my piping, attatch the coolant lines and transmission cooler lines....make sure everything is tight and then I will start on the Alkycontrol install which I am going to be taking HD pics of to send to Hulio for him to use in a future manual for F-Body.....I would also like some feedback on where people have had the best fitment and overall clean looking install.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #51  
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Default alky pump is on

so i didnt want to mount the pump horizontally although that wouldve been easier. So i drilled two 5/16 holes in the side of the bumper frame area where the charge pipe comes into the intercooler. this allowed for beautiful access to the hoses and hookups. havent finished the wiring and all because i want the controller and all in my glovebox so its going to take some tinkering. i will have some pics up soon once i get over there again. we also ran all the piping, got the belt on plus alligned, blow off valve is on, intercooler is on and level/even on both sides. alkycontrol resevoir is on although i cannot see the difference between the stocker. but its new so.......once i get injector hole drilled we will run the rest of our charge piping and put put the battery back in, cut the bumper up so that it will fit, and do a test startup. ive been told to drive it for about an hour to let the belt stretch and re tighten. think i will drive it to Napa and get a slightly shorter belt....the 42.7 inch is tight, but once it stretches theres isnt much threading left on the bracket tensioner to get it back as tight as id like for it to be. other than that its off to the tranny house, and dyno time! looking forward to seeing where all that money will get me. im expecting a 160-180rwhp gains.
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