ok...so i bought a kit from Bob @ Brutespeed. It came with the ATI super damper.....and the pinning kit shown here.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/ATI-3GKMM...?categoryId=-1

Here is my question.

1. after i get this freakin pos balancer that wont let go off the snout....what exactly do i do as far as pinning it......and in detail. i have an idea of low rpm and a good drill and no intent of being in a hurry and breakin the bit.....but after its off......i am lost. i have done many searches and all i find is pics of it already done. or done with the stock balancer. this is the 8 rib...so itd be nice to have someone chime in who prefferably has a 02 WS6. is there anything that i need to mark as far as positioning? there are some timing marks in the new damper.


2. once i get this all back together and pretty much have the car ready to fire up for the first initial test etc.....do i really and truly HAVE to flash it back to the stock tune? the procharger manual is saying "WARNING" if any **** has been done to the PCM as far as custom tuning please revert back to factory settings or some major malfunction is going to F*&^ up your $7k dollar investment. I have my doubts that the car will run very well at all with the cam and all that we have deleted....that car is gunna be looking for all kinds of codes and stuff that we have deleted. i wouldnt be surprised if the SES light looked like a strobe light at that point. Don't get me wrong i dont plan on romping on it. i just need to be able to drive it 3 miles down the road at 35-45mph. the 60# injectors arent going on until i pull it into the shop @ speedsouth in 35124. any help will be greatly appreciated. this is my first FI install...and my 2nd FI car. my other is an 08 sts-v. bought it that way.

 

not really advice on install but That's not the ideal pin kit for the ATI dampner. I made the mistake and bought that one also then I realized I didn't wanna risk anything and messing up the dampner so I ordered the actual side pin kit from ati. Most argue that this one is stronger and the side pin can shear off. So I pinned it twice with both pins that come with it and sent my dampner back to have a second keyway put in it. You can use the one you have though if you want.

 

Here's the link http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ex_ls1_pin.htm

 

As long as you dont get into boost, you should be fine driving it to where you need to.

My motor is 100% stock and im installing a Procharger. Im driving it 6 hours away to get tuned.

 

I have an ATI damper as well and couldn't use the front pinning kit as it is too large in diameter to fit inside the ATI balancer so I have to get the side pinning kit as well. I plan to put two pins in for added security.

As for driving it to get tuned, you can run it with the bypass valve open and stay out of boost and be fine. Simply remove the vacum line from the bypass valve and it will stay open, hence you won't see boost and it'll essentially be no different than running it NA.

 

Have you already got your dampner keyed for the second pin? If not I just did it cost me 60 bucks with shipping from ati.

 

I will take some photos later on tonight of what i have. all the stuff is in the car locked up a few miles down from my house. i have heard mixed results about people saying 1 is stronger and 2 is stronger as far as pins....seems to me more is better right? maybe bob will chime in and give his 0.02 on extra pins. that other pin kit looks waaay different then what I have. I wonder why it wasn't sent originally. surely all the guys running 8 rib have run into this before? i gotta go to work now...to support my rwhp needs.

 

My crank is not keyed at all yet, and I noticed that my bolt came loose, so the damper is spinning on the crank. I bought a used ATI pinning kit from a member on here and it's on it's way to me. I plan to pin it in 2 spots on the crank just to be safe. The pins are cheap, so why not put in two while I'm doing it instead of one.

 

But for two pins u will need to get the second key in your dampner cut not the crank

 

I plan to put two pins into the crank on the same key so that the damper will be pushing against two pins instead of one.

 

I c so two pins in a perfect line why not just do the other at 180 degrees like the kits made to do. I wonder which is actually stronger two in a row or one exactly 180 degrees making two points of contact.

 

I have an ATI damper on my VORTECH kit and I used the same pinning kit as the one in the pic with great results. It was verry simple to drill and install and yes this way is stronger because of the length of the pin vs the diameter. Any ?'s

 

The reason I'm going to put two in a row is because I think there is only one keyway in the damper, so I'm going to use what I have. I don't plan to push the motor hard as it's a stock shortblock, but I figure I might as well put two pins in the crank since I have to remove the damper to do it, I might as well do two of them since I have two pins.

 

It's just the fact of drilling into a expensive *** dampner some people don't care but I didnt want to maybe for resale purposes also

I wonder if you could take the strongest drill bit available the size of the pin 1/4 inch or whatever and cut the end off of it and replace the pin with it.. think that would be stronger than a regular pin?

 

didnt get off work in time to get the photos...but i did pick up my 1080p camera...so its likely ill make a video instead.

my question still remains....do i remove the old balancer...then put on the new one and then begin to pin carefully. does the guide for the drill bit slide into the damper or what? i know i am supposed to thread the bolt through that drill bit guide...then tq it down so it cant move at all.....and then take my time....what im not sure of is the placement of the damper itself when all the drilling is going to occur. and honestly the black ceramic feeling hub thing...is that just a spacer?

i called bob...he said two is def not necessary although he doesn't have an issue with 2. my guess is that more than likely only one of the pins would be under load.....and in the event that it shears...the other would accept the load of the crank. so added insurance.....sure.....but if one breaks....so can the other. its a to each his own type thing...since im only running 8-9lbs if boost i think itll last 6months to a year while i get the rear under it and save for a forged motor so i can bump it to 680-715rwhp. but then i hear we will have to swap out fuel lines and also add a dual tank setup. ill just send my unit to lonnie. its not like it takes long to drop the tank.

 

it could also be that two pins would split the load of the crank in half giving each an easier life in the longrun. lets say the pressure measured at a single pin is 10000lbs .....and if you add a second....each pin would be at an even 5000lbs.....im just gunna give it the tootsie pop motto....the world may never know.

 

For 8 to 12 psi I would use one pin and use a new crank bolt along with loc-tite and call it a day. From what I have seen, most pins sheer when a crank bolt loosens up. You should always use a new crank bolt. Bob

 

Probably would work but remember the harder the material the more likely to shear off rather than just flex a little and not break... Honestly I could re use the pin and pulley on another build without any problems, but if the engine was out for a rebuild I'd have the crank keyed like it should have been in the 1st place. Thanks GM...

 

However there is a 3rd pulley that I honestly have no idea as to what it is for what to do with. It doesn't seem to mount to the hub.

I know the ATI super damper bolts to the hub....so....take a look at the second vid link below and let me know your thoughts.

Here are the vids. they are in hi def as i have a decent cam. they are as follows......

1. me getting off the pulley with a 3 jaw. how i rigged it.

2. me asking you guys what in the hell the 3rd pulley is that came with my Procharger Kit.

3. Me describing how to pin the crank properly......and please let me know if my information is bad...because i want my video to be a reference for anyone else who has this trouble.....because basically...this is probably the worst part of the procharger install. here are the links.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PquSHcFu0Nc


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSb4ikcA94c


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5E5Vavbp7E


now back to work........

 

yeah, i can see a stock motor & procharger bein fine on a stock motor no problem. even at 10lbs. but i am already running 400rwhp with a 228r cam package from texas speed, a triple disc ptc 3200 stall, and 93 tune thru the maf....so 8-9lbs

on top of that with full bolt ons and a built trans and 3:73 it is gunna put me at 550-580ish id guess. ill be on a mustang 1100se dyno. so itll probably be more in the low 500's or teens. thatll still be over 600 at the crank, so the only thing i have to worry about is maxing the racetronix fuel pump out....and i already know that i wont...although itll be getting close.