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Time to talk about new motors....Bigger ones!

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Old 11-27-2011 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Lover
Why All Pro Heads?
Because they are the best
Old 11-27-2011 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
because they are the best
x2!!!!
Old 11-27-2011 | 01:36 PM
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I knew they were good but not the best, young grasshopper has much to learn.
Old 11-27-2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Lover
I knew they were good but not the best, young grasshopper has much to learn.
No no please, don't elaborate, I insist!
Old 11-28-2011 | 01:30 AM
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I'm going to go with Ray on this one. I think he knows his **** lol
Old 11-28-2011 | 06:13 AM
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Forget the f1r get the f1x
Old 11-28-2011 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
i am not sure if i need to drill through the hub at the provided keyway path that ATI provided...or drill a new path thru the hub....i am also unsure as to whether or not i should install the jig directly to the crank snout and drill it that way and then line the hub up afterwards...basically i have no idea how to do it. and its been holding up my install for 5 days. use this video as reference. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5E5Vavbp7E this is my rough draft video for making sure noone ever has this problem again.
Install the ATI 918853 balancer using the instructions provided with the balancer.

Install the supplied harmonic balancer pinning tool using the supplied M16 hex
bolt.

Tighten the bolt to hold the tool in place and prevent spinning during the drilling process.

Using the supplied 1/4” HSS drill bit, drill a hole in the crankshaft/harmonic balancer 0.800” deep from the face of the crankshaft. The hole will be centered on the O.D. of the crankshaft. Do not drill deeper than 0.800”. Remove the pinning tool and set aside.

Using compressed air, blow out the hole to insure no chips or debris are present.

Install the supplied 1/4” O.D. x 0.750” long stainless steel dowel pin in the hole.

Install a new factory M16 bolt and torque to 40 ft-lbs plus an additional 120º of rotation.

Attach the supplied 8-rib crank pulley to the aftermarket damper using the
supplied 3/8-24 x 1.5” hex bolts and lock washers. Be sure to apply thread locker to bolts before installation.

Torque the three 3/8” bolts to 40 ft-lbs. Bob
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Old 11-28-2011 | 10:08 AM
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Thatd be a sick *** setup man. Hook me up with your F1 for a good price!
Old 11-28-2011 | 10:29 AM
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Very possible on the blower. Not sure when I'm going to start ordering parts for it. Need to figure out engine builders as I'm going to be away for awhile lol. Tom...the budget is pretty decent.....anything on BB?
Old 11-28-2011 | 01:27 PM
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What kinda times are you running with your current setup?! Already sounds like a badass car/build. Should be even better with more cubes and aluminum block.
Old 11-28-2011 | 01:27 PM
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doing it right now
Old 11-28-2011 | 09:56 PM
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email sent. I'l let you guys know what we come up with!
Old 11-29-2011 | 01:17 AM
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You're going to need a F2 by the sound of it. BB was all about it on the phone
Old 11-29-2011 | 10:03 AM
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***** about to get VERY serious....atleast for me it is lol. I'll let you guys know what we decide on when we're done. Since I build motors for a living I'm kinda picky on stuff lol
Old 11-29-2011 | 02:33 PM
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talk to L today hes said call RPM for a big nasty M6. they are doing one for him right now
Old 11-29-2011 | 09:47 PM
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This is very rapidly turning into something crazier then I planned lol. The subject of F2's deff came up. One of my main concerns is that the car see's major street duty and I need to keep that in mind.



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